The conditions at check-in are often very unfavourable: staff are under great time pressure and want to complete the process quickly, smoothly and efficiently, as the next customers are already waiting. Nevertheless, every crew should understand as much as possible in order to avoid subsequent queries or damage caused by incorrect operation.
The customer on the other hand often wants to cast off quickly enough - after all, they want to make the most of their precious holiday time. They are also tired from the journey or simply overwhelmed by the mass of technical details that are thrown at them.
This results in hasty handovers, which are often the beginning of a failed holiday trip. It is only when they are underway that the crew realise that equipment is broken or missing, that damage has been overlooked or that important matters have been left unresolved.
A tip:
Every agency knows charter companies that are known for their excellent maintenance quality. It can therefore be worthwhile not to choose the cheaper offer, but to consciously opt for quality. You probably won't regret it.
YACHT offers checklists for taking over a charter yacht, a provisions list and a co-sailor agreement for free download.
The important handover protocol
A careful handover of the yacht is important for another reason: only those who carefully report all defects and previous damage and have them repaired or document them thoroughly are safe from later claims or can demand compensation. This is why the handover protocol is so important.
Many skippers underestimate this. If you sign prematurely, you make yourself liable for any damage that you have overlooked. These are often hidden defects that can be traced back to the previous crew. The result: in case of doubt, a good part or even the entire deposit is lost - and the trip is usually more than spoilt.
There are also some black sheep in the charter industry: fleet operators who regularly fail to repair minor defects but charge them to one crew after another. For example, bent pulpits, scratches on the hull or even damaged rudder blades.
Therefore: have all, really all defects rectified. Or if this is not possible, write a note in the report and take a copy signed by the base manager with you. Otherwise you will be left empty-handed.
Under no circumstances should you be satisfied with verbal assurances that the base is already aware of any damage. When the boat is returned, there is often another employee at the jetty who knows nothing about it. The supposed previous damage suddenly becomes a problem for the innocent crew.
Of course, the reverse is also true: if you damage something, you should be fair and report it yourself. After all, you don't want to have to answer for other people's damage yourself.
Eliminate defects or demand a reduction?
If the base personnel come on board, you should be as clear as possible about what should be done in the event of a defect: insist on a remedy or be prepared to make concessions? Long lists of defects often take up a lot of repair time that cannot be properly utilised.
What many people don't realise: In various charter contracts, a reduction in the charter price is excluded if the equipment is missing, so there is no point in taking action. However, in the event of major annoyances such as a missing outboard motor, a defective autopilot with a small crew and the like, you can try to reduce the additional costs on site at a later date.
Only one point is not negotiated: If safety-relevant parts are defective, the skipper must insist on a remedy! If something happens later, he is fully responsible for it. However, it is not always easy to decide what exactly is safety-relevant. In the case of damage to safety equipment, compass, engine, rudder, rigging or hull, no-one is likely to argue. But there have already been judgements according to which a defective GPS device or a plotter is no reason to refuse to take over the yacht.
The most important check points on deck
It is standard practice at most bases to give the customer the inventory list after registration and ask them to go through it themselves. This makes sense, as it shortens the handover process and the crew then knows where all the equipment is.
But don't just check that the equipment is present, also check that everything works.
- Mainsail Roll out and check, especially on the clew and lower leech. If the trolley is difficult to move over the boom, lubricant spray can help (ask the base). If the main is battened, check the batten pockets for open chafe marks. Are the sliders and travellers intact? If possible, have cracks and holes repaired or note them in the log. If unfurling in the harbour does not work due to wind strength or direction, this also applies to the headsail: It is essential to set and check the sails immediately after leaving the harbour - damage is too often overlooked and paid for dearly later. Worse still, you may have to have a tear sewn during the voyage, which often involves a lot of effort in cutting the cloth and finding a sailmaker.
- Foresail Is the furling drum still running smoothly? If the cordage in it is extremely stiff, rinse with fresh water. The cleat of the mooring lines is often defective. Also check this sail for tears and holes, especially at the spreaders, clew and foot. A headsail can often be repaired quickly. Check genoa slides and sheets for damage.
- Anchor windlass Ask for the chain length if it is not marked. The end must be attached and the crank for the brake must be on board. Check for damage to the roller or fittings. Connect and test the remote control. This is often only possible when the machine is running. Where is the overload safety device located below deck in case the anchor gets stuck?
- Gas cylinder/bathing platform Are the regulators on the gas cylinder OK or does it have a remote switch? And is there a full spare cylinder on board?
- Outboard motor The dinghy whisk is technically vulnerable. Pull on the pushpit once and let it run for a few seconds. If you can't get it started, it rarely gets better later on the water. Is a tank and spare canister filled and on board? And is there a spare shear pin for the propeller? Is the emergency stop line on the engine?
- Dinghy Will the dinghy hold the pressure, at least to some extent? Is there an air pump with suitable connections on board? Is the dinghy hull damaged? Are the (vulcanised) towing line eyes torn out? What about the rudder, dinghy and seat boards? Damage to the dinghy is often expensive when it is returned, so document this too.
- Baking box Important contents: power cable plus adapter, second gas cylinder, water hose, second anchor, boat hook, bailer.
- Linen Four shorter lines (about the length of the ship) as mooring lines and springs as well as two 30 metre long shore lines are the minimum. If the ropes show signs of heavy chafing, ask for a replacement - if the ship breaks free later, the deposit can quickly be lost!
- Fender Check for completeness and air pressure. A proper stern fender is often forgotten, but is important in the Mediterranean for moorings with the stern to the pier.
- Instruments A lot of trouble is usually caused by the log, which cannot be checked in the harbour, and a hanging Windex. Test the plotter, switch on the autopilot. If the wheel is locked, it will work. Also important to clarify: What depth does the depth sounder show? From the transducer or under the keel?
- Engine Run the engine as a test. Is cooling water leaking regularly? If the exhaust sounds tinny or there is white smoke, there is usually a cooling problem.
- Security Is the rescue collar with attached line and flashing light present? Check the batteries of the flashing light, they are often flat. For automatic lifejackets: Are the cartridge and tablet intact? Are there any lifelines? Locate the life raft, if present, and the emergency tiller. Check once how the tiller is attached.
- Hull/keel/rudder Check the deck and outer hull for scratches, large scuff marks and holes. The railing supports and bow and stern pulpits must be straight, free of dents and firmly attached. If you can see the rudder blade(s), look particularly at the aft edge and the foot to see if there has been any grounding.
- Bathing platform If the bathing platform can be lowered: check whether the fittings are bent. Is the bathing ladder, if attachable, on board and undamaged? Does the cockpit shower work?
- Sprayhood/bimini The sprayhood and the bimini are also worth a look. The tensioning lines are prone to tearing here. Holes, defective window films or bent poles can also quickly become costly.
The most important check points below deck
- Electronics Test the function of all devices. To do this, switch on the systems on the control panel in sequence.
- Batteries Where are the main switches for the batteries? Are the starter and consumer batteries separate? Extra battery for the bow thruster? A deep discharge of the on-board batteries can be critical. Therefore, test the battery voltage. It should be well above 13 volts with shore power or with the engine running, otherwise it will not be charged correctly. If the engine is switched off and the power cable is disconnected, the voltage must not fall below around 12.3 volts, otherwise there is a risk of problems.
- Water Are the tanks all full or is the faeces tank empty? Run the pressurised water system. Where are the changeover valves for the fresh water tanks?
- Navigation/Papers Do not forget: The plotter is not a legal substitute for paper maps! Often its modules are not up to date. Check that all sets are up-to-date and complete for the sailing area. The sailing guide must also be on board. Have the charter papers relevant to the area (transit log, permit, etc.) explained to you and clarify whether manuals for the on-board equipment are available.
- Engine Check the oil level, check the V-belt tension (max. 1 centimetre play). Check where the water filter is located and how to open it if it is blocked by seaweed or rubbish. Then close it tightly. Is there engine oil for the diesel on board? Then carry out a test run.
- Sanitary facilities Check whether the toilets are in working order. If there is a faeces tank, find the valve and show the crew how it works. Is the shower pump draining? The suction flange is often blocked. If the toilet in the harbour fills up when not in use, the pump seal is defective.
- Tools/spare parts Open the toolbox and check the contents, often half of it is missing. Important spare parts: Adhesive tape, canvas repair kit, impeller, spark plug, spark plug spanner, shear pin for outboard motor, Sikaflex, clamps, V-belt, lubricant (WD 40 or similar), shackles, screws.
- Pantry For the cooker, locate the gas stopcock. Switch on the refrigerator as early as possible and let it run for longer to see if it is cooling properly. Check the thermostat (usually in the fridge compartment) and turn it up or down if necessary. Check the water pressure at the tap and see if the water is draining properly from the sink.
- Security The personal safety equipment for each crew member consists of a waistcoat, lifebelt and lifeline. The first aid kit is often ransacked, so we recommend taking a look inside. Where are the fire extinguishers located? Are all the distress signals on board and have they not yet expired? Where are the bolt cutters for the shrouds?
- Bilge pumps/keel It is rarely practised, but it makes sense to take a look inside the bilge and at the keel bolts. Hairline cracks around the bolts indicate a serious grounding that has not yet been repaired. If there is water in the bilge, it must be sponged out in the harbour (environmental protection). Then test run.
- Seacocks Locate and try out all the air outlets. If they are not open, it can be dangerous in the worst case. If there are one or more waste tanks on board: Where are the valves for them? Do not accidentally close the valve for the engine cooling system. Clarify with the crew exactly who should close which valve and when.
Ten check-in tips for beginners
If you don't have much experience or only charter once a year, it's hard to get into the routine. Ten simple tips will help you get up and running more quickly
- Division of labour: After check-in, there is a short version for the crew. Assign tasks (fridge off when sailing, on when motoring, close/check windows and valves after departure, empty holding tank, keep an eye on water levels, etc.). This way the crew learns and the skipper doesn't have to do everything alone! Everyone is responsible for their safety equipment, sea valves and hatches.
- No agitation! The more the base staff push, the calmer you should be yourself. If necessary, let the man go and speak to him again later. The same applies if the crew wants to leave: take your time, you are liable too!
- Security deposit insurance: If you have taken out one, do not mention this. Some base managers then try to charge for trivialities or expensive previous damage.
- What to do if the boat is not clear? Courts have formulated guideline values: 24 hours waiting time is reasonable for a one-week charter, 48 for a two-week charter, before you can cancel! But: Then there is recourse.
- Switch on agency. If you have serious problems with the base staff, a call to the agent at home can sometimes help. The agency may know what to do or can put more pressure on you.
- Sending the crew off boardif it gets too crowded. Let your fellow passengers go shopping or have a coffee if they get in the way of check-in. Luggage and shopping will only get in the way at check-in.
- Four eyes see more. A co-skipper should always take part in the check-in. Always make a note of questions as they arise!
- Stay consistent. All defects must be recorded in the minutes if they are not rectified. No excuses from basic employees are allowed!
- Prepare well. If necessary, obtain operating instructions for the plotter in advance on the Internet.
- Stay friendly. Base staff are under a lot of pressure during peak season (and are sometimes poorly paid). Admit mistakes. Those who report their own mistakes are often treated with more respect, as this is relatively rare.
