With its sun, warmth and often moderate breeze, the Mediterranean offers ideal conditions for sailors. Wonderful anchor bays, dreamy harbour towns and almost always delicious food make it a second home for many sailors from Germany and other northern countries, at least during a charter trip. Every year, thousands of crews are drawn to the coasts and islands of Croatia, Greece, Italy, France and Spain. For many, sailing holidays in these countries are the highlight of the year, often for many seasons.
Year after year, newcomers to sailing also discover the Mediterranean as a holiday destination. They have often learnt to sail on the North Sea or Baltic Sea or in German or Dutch inland waters. Now they come to the Adriatic, Aegean or Riviera for the first time and are surprised. Some of the things they have learnt are handled differently in the south. Whether mooring in the harbour, anchoring in narrow bays, sailing from one country to another or the choice of restaurant in the evening, which is often linked to the mooring place: here are the most important peculiarities that you should know so that your next cruise in the south is a dream holiday.
In most Mediterranean harbours, with the exception of Greece, it is good manners to register before entering. Some marinas even insist that you contact them by radio before entering the harbour. This has advantages: It saves you a long search and you are usually allocated a suitable berth instead. And when you arrive, a marinero is ready to help.
As a rule, the boat is moored with the stern to the jetty. In the south, nobody wants to climb onto the boat via the pulpit. Instead, you can get ashore via the bathing platform and an accompanying stelling - often a simple plank. Luggage and provisions are also easier to bring on board via the stern. However, it's not just beginners who have respect for the mooring manoeuvre. Especially when it comes to manoeuvring the wide and long charter yacht into a narrow gap between other boats while lowering the anchor or fishing for the mooring line. Tip: Place the Stelling on the pier when going ashore so that it does not slip into the water.
Murings are mooring lines that are anchored at the bottom of the harbour basin and secured to the pier. From there, when mooring astern, a crew member positioned on the side of the boat pulls them up with the help of the boat hook and guides them forwards to the bow cleat, where they are pulled through tightly and secured. As mooring lines are coarse, slippery and often covered with sharp-edged mussel shells, wear work gloves! The mooring ring is properly tensioned by putting slack on the stern lines, moving the boat forwards a little, pulling the mooring ring through and tying it and then moving the boat back to the pier with the engine. Then tie up the stern lines. Tip: Even if it is tempting to deploy the stern lines more easily, never moor astern with the bathing platform folded down. In case of doubt, it will not withstand a collision with the pier.
The often nimble and experienced harbour master's assistants receive incoming crews, guide them to their berths and often also help with mooring. In some places, they even meet the yachts with their own boats and help them manoeuvre.
In many smaller or simple municipal and city harbours or in front of restaurant and tavern jetties, there are often no mooring lines available for mooring the boat. This is particularly common in Greece. Instead, the bow anchor is used for the Roman Catholic mooring manoeuvre. Check the depth of the harbour basin beforehand in order to estimate the required chain length.
If there is no indication on the chart, turn a circle in front of the pier and read the depth on the echo sounder. Then drop the anchor well clear of the pier and return to the chosen berth as straight as possible, stern first. Before taking up the stern lines, first tighten the anchor chain. If you notice that the anchor is not holding, repeat the manoeuvre.
The fuller the harbour, the more anchor chains and lines are scattered around the harbour basin. This sometimes ends up with a mess of anchors, so that the next morning your own anchor catches someone else's chain when you pick it up. To solve this, first raise your own anchor far enough to reach the other person's chain. Pull the hook underneath or pull the cordage through and tie it on board, then haul your own chain and free the anchor. If this does not work, the only option is often to have a diver clear the mess.
A simple piece of equipment that should be included in the cruising luggage - it is usually not available on the yachts themselves. The hook can save the crew from having to dive into the harbour basin to break up a tangled anchor. To do this, it is attached to two lines, one of which acts as a trip line that is hooked under one of the anchor chains. This chain can then be lifted with the aid of a winch and the anchor underneath retrieved. The hook is released from the chain by pulling on the triple line and simultaneously lowering the other line.
In addition to the many harbours in the Balearic Islands and Croatia, there are also more and more mooring buoy fields. The buoys anchored on the seabed are used to easily moor the ship. This allows more boats to be moored and also prevents seagrass fields from being ploughed through by anchors. As a rule, mooring is subject to a fee, but unfortunately does not guarantee a safe berth. It's best to go snorkelling yourself and check whether the mooring buoy is in good condition and the bottom weight seems solid. Unfortunately, it happens from time to time that a line is rotten or the weight on the seabed is not up to the vessel. In the event of damage, it will be difficult to hold the operator of the buoy field liable.
The operators, who come alongside with a boat, collect the money. In return, they usually take the rubbish ashore for disposal. If you prefer to anchor freely in the same bay, you should keep more than the 150 metres distance from the buoys that is usually required. Otherwise there is a risk of heated discussions with the operator.
In narrow or crowded anchorages, shore lines are usually deployed in addition to the anchor in order to minimise the space available. In this way, there is room for more yachts. If conditions permit, deploy the lines in the opposite direction to the wind and tie them to the stern. But be careful with wind shifts, for example at night. If strong winds hit the ship from the side, there is a risk that the anchor will break free.
Do not use trees to secure the lines on land, but rather large boulders without sharp edges! In some places there are iron rings for the lines.
Many beaches have bathing areas that are cordoned off by buoys or bands and may not be entered. This also applies to dinghies with a running engine. Sometimes there is a path through such a zone or a dinghy jetty so that you can land. Entering a designated bathing zone is not only dangerous for swimmers, but can also result in a hefty fine.
The offshore, cold Mediterranean wind from the northwest to northeast occurs on the French and neighbouring Italian coast as far as Genoa as well as in the Tuscan Archipelago and in the sea area between the Balearic Islands and Corsica. It can reach gale force. Therefore, never blindly trust the supposedly good weather in the potentially endangered areas, but check the forecasts regularly. As Mistral announces itself a few days in advance, you can usually get to a safe harbour in good time and stay there for a few days.
A Mediterranean wind from the north to north-east with sometimes very strong gusts that are cold and dry. It is typical for the east coast of the Adriatic, especially Slovenia and northern Croatia. Reef early if there are signs of an approaching bora. In the region, also check the weather forecast daily. The local meteorological services provide very reliable warnings of a bora, usually a day in advance. If a strong wind is forecast, stay in the harbour or head for the nearest safe harbour.
The humid, onshore wind from the south-east, also known as Scirocco, is usually accompanied by yellowish clouds and rain storms. It is not uncommon for violent thunderstorms to occur. It usually carries a lot of sand dust with it, so that visibility is also very poor. In contrast to the bora, the jugo builds up over several days until it has reached its full strength. This leaves plenty of time to head for a safe harbour.
Particularly in the late season, small-scale wind vortices can form regionally, such as on the Adriatic. They reach top speeds of up to 500 kilometres per hour and sometimes cause corresponding damage. It can even happen that several whirlwinds form at the same time, but they rotate in different directions. If you spot such a vortex while sailing, you should observe its path and try to keep your distance. If the vortex does approach, lower the sails, switch on the engine and flee in the opposite direction to the wake!
If the wind is forced through a narrow passage, its speed increases significantly. This can be the case between islands, for example. The Strait of Bonifacio between Corsica and Sardinia and the Strait of Messina between the Italian mainland and Sicily are famous for their jets. In such regions, it is better to reef earlier rather than later. The increase in wind can usually be recognised by the white crests of the waves ahead.
In some areas, there are local regulations that you will not find out by yourself and it is best to ask the local charter company about them. In Sardinia, for example, a distance of 100 metres from rocky coasts, 200 metres from sandy beaches and 300 metres from harbour entrances must be observed. Violations can result in fines. It is better to allow for a little more distance than to argue with the police later, who are always right in case of doubt.
The small, sometimes rustic, sometimes really fine restaurants can be found along Croatia's coast and on many islands. Most of them have jetties or mooring buoys where you can tie up free of charge. In return, however, the crew is understandably expected to stop for a meal. The same applies to the tavernas in Greece and the "bush pubs" that can be found in many places along the Turkish Aegean coast.
Anyone sailing from one country to another, especially from a non-EU state to an EU state or vice versa, must clear in and out. In Croatia, for example, this is the case when travelling to Montenegro. A port of entry must be called at. Only the skipper is allowed to disembark as long as clearance has not been completed. Documents required: List with name, address, date of birth, nationality, passport number and function of the co-sailors. Furthermore, the skipper's boat licence, the international boat licence, a confirmation from the charter company that the skipper is allowed to drive the yacht, as well as proof of insurance for the boat. The Turkish-Greek sea border should be avoided at the moment. The bureaucratic effort involved in changing areas is large and expensive, and tensions between the countries often lead to problems.
A licence is required for sailing in some protected regions, such as the Maddalena archipelago in the north of Sardinia, the Cabrera island off Mallorca or the Kornati islands off the Croatian coast. Depending on the park, this is sometimes subject to a fee and can be purchased online or in the harbours in the area. The charter company often offers to take care of the permit in advance of the trip. In Croatia, it can also be purchased on site in the national park, but is then significantly more expensive. If you want to sail to Cabrera, you need to book well in advance, as places are limited.
In some harbours, such as Antibes on the French Riviera, a yacht insurance confirmation must be received and confirmed by email before entering the harbour. It is best to have the document ready to send on your smartphone or tablet. Otherwise you may be refused entry to a harbour.
In the summer months of July and August, the marinas along the Côte d'Azur, on Mallorca and in Sardinia, for example, are packed and at the same time the most expensive. Outside the high season, prices fall, while the number of free berths increases significantly. If you are nevertheless travelling in high summer, you should either reserve a place in good time or arrive in the early afternoon.
In many areas, you can save money by mooring in a public harbour instead of a private marina. In Mallorca, for example, mooring in the local municipal harbours at the so-called Moll Transit is much cheaper. There are ten of these simple facilities around Mallorca. You can book a berth for three days via the website www.portsib.es. Although the website is in Spanish, you only need to translate it using the browser function to understand what you need to do. It's worth the effort, the mooring costs are up to two thirds lower at the Moll Transit.