As the crane date approaches, the important tasks such as maintenance, repairs and planned conversions or modifications must be carried out first. Cleaning the boat is usually further down the to-do list, but is urgently needed after the winter work. Sanding dust and hall dirt from shoes are scattered on board. Making the yacht beautiful for the season not only has aesthetic benefits, cleaning every last nook and cranny can also reveal damage that might otherwise have gone unnoticed. In addition, maintenance helps to preserve the value of the boat.
Spring cleaning may also be on the agenda at home, but there are a few things to consider on board that require special care or where conventional products can even be harmful. The teak deck, for example, does not tolerate strong cleaning agents and abrasive sponges. The gelcoat is washed in the spring before polishing; no cleaning agents that attack the sealant should be used during the season. Unlike on land, the toilet has a pump with sensitive seals, so do not use strong cleaning agents here either. The upholstery is at risk of mould; this can be prevented with special systems for ventilating the underside of the mattress, regular heating and ventilation or a dehumidifier.
You don't need much in the way of special equipment. In addition to a cloth, sponge and brush (including one with a handle for washing the deck), kitchen paper is very useful when working on the engine and installation. It is hardly ever necessary to buy a high-pressure cleaner; there is usually one in the harbour at the crane.
In many cases, special cleaning sponges or Radiator spongesMagic-Cleaner or Plastering stones which are designed to work without additional cleaning agents. These are simply abrasives; cleaning is carried out by removing the dirty surface. These abrasive methods should be used very carefully on board, as the gelcoat and windows are sensitive. Microfibre cloths, on the other hand, can be useful helpers. Thanks to their special surface properties, they absorb dirt particles particularly well. Smooth surfaces should therefore only be cleaned with water and a cloth of this type.
We provide an overview of the right choice from the multitude of different cleaning agents, taking into account the different materials on a boat
As with all work on the boat, make sure you wear suitable protective equipment when cleaning. Gloves should be worn, especially when handling acidic cleaners or the wood preservative Boracol.
When your own boat sparkles after a thorough spring clean, nothing stands in the way of a relaxed start to the new season!
The cloth can be used to gently clean surfaces. Microfibre cloths have a cleaning effect due to their structure.
A Rinsing sponge can do a good job, but be careful with the rough side: it can dull shiny surfaces.
One Brush penetrates with its bristles even into small irregularities. This allows an anti-slip structure or the inflatable boat to be cleaned.
TheHigh pressure cleaner is ideal for removing coarse dirt and vegetation. It is usually used in autumn; if necessary, repeat the work in spring.
Algae, moss, mould: the teak deck quickly turns green, especially in corners. It dries more poorly in these areas and the wood is attacked. The tried and tested wood preservative Boracol removes the growth. One preventative treatment is enough for the season. Highly recommended!
Limescale deposits and dirt form yellowish deposits, especially at the water pass. Antigilb contains oxalic acid, which dissolves the limescale. Apply, leave to work and then rinse off with water and a sponge. Antigilb is available from various suppliers
Scrape the pockmarks off the propeller with a spatula. Remove the hard-to-remove residues with Citric acid loosen. To do this, place the dismantled prop in a container with the acid or, if it is to remain on the shaft, wrap it with acid-soaked cloths/diapers and leave it to work
Boatshampoos are available from various manufacturers. What they all have in common is that they are very mild cleaners. This means that the polished and sealed gelcoat can also be cleaned without destroying the protective layer. This means there is no need to reseal after cleaning
It is best to clean the rig with washing-up liquid and a sponge. Do not scrub with the rough side, as this can scratch the surface coating. Abrasion and dirt collects in the mast groove in particular. Do not forget the posis
The saltier the water, the faster traces of rust form - even on stainless steel surfaces. The bow and stern pulpit and railing supports can be polished and preserved with the special agent Flitz. The matt film can be polished to a high gloss after drying
Vuplex can be used to polish and seal the film windows in the sprayhood and cake stand. The spray fills small scratches, making the windows clearer, and creates a layer from which water and dirt simply roll off. Has proven itself in practice
Inflatable boats and fenders are exposed to a lot of stress and can quickly become very dirty. In our test of inflatable boat cleaners (YACHT 12/14), The Cleaner did this job best. For heavy soiling, a brush helps as a reinforcement
Spak and mould stains on plastic surfaces can be easily removed with Klorix can be removed. The cleaner is not recommended for tarpaulins as it contains bleaching agents that can lead to discolouration. It is better to use soapy water and a brush
The dirtiest corners on board are in the bilge. Why clean there? To detect leaks and leaks on the engine or to find lost small parts. There are special bilge cleaners for this purpose. If there is engine oil in the wash water, dispose of it correctly
Oilskins are the most expensive personal equipment that both owners and many charter sailors own. This makes it all the more important to look after these expensive items of clothing properly to ensure that they last a long time. Bad weather clothing can be machine washed at 30 degrees, but it is important to use the right detergent - conventional products and fabric softeners in particular are taboo. The silicones in the latter clog the membranes, which would impair breathability. Special products are available from outfitters or in outdoor and ski shops. Some manufacturers also allow machine drying after washing. Waterproofing is important in any case: whether it is already included in the special detergent or sprayed on later, it determines whether the membrane works. Damp fabric stops breathability
In the cabin, is the boat no different from the four walls at home? Wrong! The toilet, for example, requires different cleaners!
The seals in the pump of the on-board toilet are made of neoprene. The plastic does not tolerate strong cleaners, so instead of toilet duck, only use washing-up liquid or citric acid to prevent limescale build-up. This will keep the seals intact and the toilet will continue to work
Washbasins, sinks and worktops can be cleaned with scouring milk. Subsequently, sealing with the spray agent prevents Vuplex the renewed soiling. This also works very well on joints made of sealant and the walls in the shower
Grotamar or biocide-free enzyme-based variants such as Xbee protect the diesel fuel from bacterial growth. However, if it is already too late, the only solution is to remove the sludge from the tank by hand. The best way to do this is with a spatula through a maintenance hatch
Special cleaners for upholstery and fabrics are particularly mild and contain no acids to prevent discolouration. Spray evenly and then wipe or vacuum. If cushion and upholstery covers are removable, they can also be washed in the washing machine.
Smooth surfaces in the pantry, such as the hob and worktop, as well as clear lacquered wood, can be cleaned of grease splashes with window cleaner. For windows made of acrylic glass, check beforehand whether the cleaner is suitable. Do not clean with the rough side of the sponge
Mould is a common problem on board. It thrives particularly well in a damp environment. Mould removers usually only help in the short term. To prevent mould growth, the relative humidity should not exceed 60 percent. The warmer the air, the more water it can absorb. As a result, the relative humidity changes with the temperature. The value is given as a percentage; at 100 per cent, the air is completely saturated. If the air is heated, the relative humidity decreases. If, on the other hand, the temperature drops when the air is completely saturated, water condenses and can no longer be bound in the air. This effect causes moisture on the inside of the side wall, for example. Especially in cold outside temperatures, there is a risk of getting wet inside the boat. Heating or a Dehumidifier.