This is the third part of the sailing report along the Costa degli Dei in south-west Italy. The first part you can do so here read up on, the second one here. Most charter skippers in the region opt for the north coast of Sicily or the outer Aeolian Islands Whilst most people head there for its spectacular volcanic landscape, very few have the ‘Coast of the Gods’ on their radar – and quite wrongly so!
Scilla, a figure from mythology
Our next destination lies just ahead of the bow: Scilla. More specifically, Castello Ruffo, which towers above the fishing district of Chianalea. There’s no marina here, but there are moorings with a shuttle service and rubbish collection. And a lovely panoramic view. Danilo has already let us know that we’re expected. Perfect!
Scilla is a small Calabrian village situated right on the Strait of Messina – and is regarded as one of the most romantic and traditional places in southern Italy. Its name derives from Greek mythology. It is said that the sea monster Scylla, who threatened Odysseus in Homer’s *Odyssey*, lived here – whilst directly opposite, on the Sicilian side, the whirlpool Charybdis lurked, forcing Odysseus to navigate between the two dangers without losing his ship and crew entirely.
In cinemas this summer
Anyone who’s been to the cinema this summer may well have this scene fresh in their mind: Christopher Nolan’s film *Odysee*, starring Matt Damon as the legendary hero, has only just brought the ancient odyssey back to the big screen, set against the same Mediterranean backdrop through which we’re now chugging comfortably under our own steam. Nolan opted for real geography rather than a computer-generated fantasy landscape – and indeed, there’s no need for expensive special effects here to make an impact.
Anyone who gets too close to the cliffs of Scilla in a dinghy at high tide and in strong currents will realise, even without a monster, just how unpredictable the waters of this strait can be. You soon realise that the myth surrounding the Strait of Messina is not merely a dramatic invention, but a translation of real nautical hazards into a thrilling story.
The climb up to Castello Ruffo
Compared to better-known places in Calabria or Sicily, Scilla is less overrun by tourists, yet brimming with history, charm and living tradition. The climb up to Castello Ruffo, an ancient fortress perched on the cliff above the sea, is well worth the effort. For around 2,500 years, this spot – so strategically important for maritime trade – has been fortified and has seen many rulers come and go.
A little further on is the Belvedere – the beautiful viewpoint – from Piazza San Rocco, overlooking the Strait of Messina, with Sicily in the background, and the whole scene set against the backdrop of a sunset at its very finest. As cheesy as it sounds, it simply makes you want to sigh, ‘O sole mio’.
Costa degli Dei sailing log
On our last evening on board, over a glass of the Ciró Rosso that Danilo recommended, we take stock once more: we may not have covered many nautical miles this time – at least compared to other cruises – but we have discovered bays, churches, headlands and waiters that we won’t forget in a hurry.
The Costa degli Dei doesn’t require long-distance crossings or endless days under sail. It calls for time to drop anchor, go for a swim and take a breather. That is precisely what makes it a destination that, precisely because it is so manageable, you’ll want to book straight away for next summer.
Our unanimous conclusion: what is good enough for the gods is certainly good enough for us. You can’t get much more ‘Bella Italia’ than this.
Part 1 of the feature can be found here.
Part 2 of the feature can be found here.
More about Italy
- For body and soul: Late summer on Lake Garda
- Volcanic fires and secluded coves: the Aeolian Islands
- Porto Azzurro: Elba’s blue jewel
Jan Jepsen
Freier Autor