Vibo Marina is a small town in Calabria. Not far from the far more famous Tropea. Danilo, head of Sailink’s small charter fleet, welcomes us in person. We check in on a Dufour 530. Our aim is to discover a small but lovely sailing area: the Costa degli Dei.
The Coast of the Gods is a charming destination in Calabria – but one known to very few. Not least because most sailors are invariably drawn to the Aeolian Islands, which are within sight. There’s nothing wrong with that. But you’re missing out on something.
Just 55 kilometres long
The 55-kilometre-long coastline of the Costa degli Dei stretches between Pizzo and Nicotera and boasts crystal-clear waters, idyllic beaches and charming little towns. And as just under 30 nautical miles isn’t exactly a nautical challenge, Danilo recommends we sail a little further south to Scilla, at the entrance to the Strait of Messina. If only for the unique swordfish fleet there. And the excellent fish restaurants.
Personal favourites
He knows how to keep customers happy. Whenever we’ve wanted to know something – where to find the best granita or tartufo, for example, or the best pizza or pasta – he’s been there to help plan our itinerary. If needed, he’ll even book moorings or marinas for us. No problem. A text or voice message is all it takes.
Even before we’ve set sail, he sends us a list of his personal favourites: a small fishmonger on the quayside at Vibo Marina, who puts out fresh swordfish in the morning, and a winery in the hinterland, whose Ciró Rosso is said to make every sunset just that little bit more beautiful.
Pizzo, a delightful start
For day one, Danilo Pizzo recommends a charming start to the trip on the Tyrrhenian coast, just round the corner. The approach from the sea is an experience in itself: the town is picturesquely perched on a rocky outcrop above the sea and, as you approach from the water, offers an impressive panorama featuring the old fortress and the pastel-coloured houses of the old town.
Just below the picturesque town centre lies a small, sheltered harbour, which is, however, reserved for fishing boats only. Anchoring is no problem in light, offshore winds. On land, sailors are greeted by a typical southern Italian atmosphere: winding alleyways and historic sights such as the Castello Murat. The castle bears witness to Calabria’s turbulent past and is closely linked to the story of one of Napoleon’s brothers-in-law.
The real attraction: Tartufo
Pizzo’s real attraction, however, is its famous Tartufo ice cream, which you simply mustn’t miss whilst sitting in Piazza della Repubblica overlooking the harbour. The dessert was invented here in the 1950s. Several ice-cream parlours claim to serve the original version – Gelateria Dante is particularly famous. A must-try. The rest is silence and the sound of smacking lips.
A cave church on the beach
The next highlight the following day, just north of Pizzo, is the Chiesetta di Piedigrotta, a unique cave church near the beach, which is very easy to reach by dinghy. The church was carved out of the rock by the sea and has a remarkable history.
According to legend, the chapel was built at the end of the 17th century: Neapolitan sailors found themselves caught in a severe storm and vowed that, should they be rescued, they would build a church in honour of the Madonna. And so it came to pass. Despite their shipwreck, they reached the shore unharmed – as did an image of the Madonna which had been in the captain’s cabin. Out of gratitude, they carved a chapel out of the rock at the site of the shipwreck and placed the image there.
From one swimming stop to the next
There’s certainly no sign of a storm on our trip. During the day, the onshore breeze is just strong enough to carry us towards Tropea, the pearl of Calabria, from one swimming stop to the next. On the way, we’re due to stop at Danilo’s favourite anchorage. It’s near a tuff rock formation that looks like an ancient Etruscan harbour and is very popular at the weekend. Unfortunately, we’re a bit late. We won’t have time for more than a quick dip.
Part 2 of the feature will follow shortly!
More about Italy
- For body and soul: Late summer on Lake Garda
- Volcanic fires and secluded bays: the Aeolian Islands
- Porto Azzurro: Elba’s blue jewel
Jan Jepsen
Freier Autor