The low-hanging sun makes the water glisten and sparkle so much that you have to squint. The mighty mountain slopes, which rise steeply and ruggedly on both sides to over 1,000 metres, are reflected in the blue of the gentle waves. In the valley between them – which forms the approximately four-kilometre-long northern shore of Lake Garda – the houses, churches and old palazzi of Riva nestle on one side, whilst the ochre-coloured buildings in the centre of Torbole stand on the other.
These two towns are the water sports centres of Trentino. This is the province to the south of South Tyrol, which extends a good six kilometres out into the northern part of Lake Garda.
In summer, thousands of surfers, dinghy sailors and crews of larger boats flock here. From April onwards, regattas are held here virtually every weekend, some with huge fields of competitors. This is where sailing schools train the next generation. This is home to clubs steeped in tradition, which have produced some of Italy’s most famous sailors. In short: the hustle and bustle on the lake is immense, particularly during the peak season. The same goes for the towns, through which crowds of tourists then make their way. And the hiking and cycling trails, for which the region is famous, are also very busy.
Now, however, from early to mid-September, an almost reverent silence descends upon the lake. Only the tolling of a distant church bell echoes out to us across the water. Apart from that, the rustling of the wind in the sails and the lapping of the waves against the bow are the only sounds on this late afternoon.
We set off on an evening sail from San Nicolò harbour in Riva aboard a Sun Odyssey 349 from Gardasee-Charter. At first, the skipper had set a course for the Ponale waterfall on the western shore. He then turned the boat around so that the crew could enjoy the last rays of sunshine over the lake.
Suddenly, he hands the helm over to one of the other sailors and disappears below deck. You can hear the clatter of crockery and the clink of glasses coming from the galley, then he passes several snack boxes, each the size of a shoe box, up to the deck. Inside are little delicacies from the B&B ‘Locanda 53’ in Arco. Its supper club, limited to eight people per evening, is even worthy of a mention in the Michelin Guide.
Blessings in Riva and Torbole:
- Lake Garda Charter Commercial yacht charter, ranging from the Neptun 26 and Farr 750 to a Dehler 28S and the Sun Odyssey 349. Day, weekend and week-long cruises available. Charter base at San Nicolò Harbour in Riva.
- Torbole Sailing Club J/80 half-day and full-day sailing trips. With a skipper. Can also be booked as sailing training or a team-building activity.
- The Fraglia Vela Riva will once again host the RS Feva Autumn Meeting (30 September to 3 October) and, following that, the Garda Youth Cup (9 to 11 October).
Thanks to the snack boxes, the crew on the Sun Odyssey get a taste of the culinary delights on offer at the fine dining experience in “Locanda 53” can indulge in. In the cockpit, with the priceless lake scenery in view, you can indulge in polenta crisps, mini burgers stuffed with steak tartare, mountain cheese, bread salad refined with fermented limes, and Fregolotta, the region’s traditional almond crumble cake. When the skipper serves a glass of Trentodoc – the sparkling wine of Trentino – whilst the yacht glides across the lake, the pleasure could not be greater.
The next day, we’re back out on the lake. Regatta training is on the agenda. With two J/80-class sailing boats and under the guidance of two professionals, we practise tacking and jibing off Torbole and Riva. And once again, the sun is shining and the reliable Lake Garda breeze is blowing: in the morning, the stronger Pelér from the north; in the afternoon, the Ora from the south.
The Circolo Vela, Torbole’s sailing club, not only organises numerous regattas, but also offers half-day and full-day trips led by professional skippers, various manoeuvring and trimming training sessions, as well as team-building activities under sail. And anyone arriving with their own boat on a trailer can launch it here.
There are plenty of ways to spend some of the late summer days, either entirely or partly, on the lake. Yachts for week-long cruises can also be booked through the aforementioned provider, Gardasee-Charter.
Or, for a change, you can watch others sailing. On the third day, we take to the water in RIBs provided by Fraglia Vela Riva, the famous sailing club in Riva del Garda. Hundreds of colourful sails transform the lake into a vibrant spectacle. The RS Feva class has organised its annual autumn meeting. Among other events, the European Championships are being held there.
You could watch the budding chefs in their slender dinghies for hours on end, but a cookery class at the ‘Lido Palace’ awaits. Everyone can have a go at making their own, so they can then enjoy some homemade tortellini. Head chef Stefano Rossi shows them how it’s done, whilst the participants struggle to fill the pasta and shape it. Great fun – and absolutely delicious too.
Mese del Gusto: regional produce takes centre stage
Sailing by day, or perhaps going for a walk or a cycle ride, and in the evening getting to know and appreciate the produce of local winegrowers, oil mills, fruit and vegetable growers, and, last but not least, local fishermen: the Mese del Gusto the perfect opportunity. This year, the culinary programme runs from 25 September to 8 November. Its events are spread across Riva del Garda, Torbole, Arco and the hinterland of Garda Trentino.
Highlights from last year’s Meso del Gusto, both on water and on land:
The programme kicks off with ‘Sponde: Freshwater Fish on Your Plate’ from 25 to 27 September and on 3 October. In Riva, Torbole and Arco, the focus will then be on dishes featuring fish from lakes and streams. Aperitifs, street food, as well as lunch and dinner will be on offer. Last year, for example, Giada Miori from the restaurant ‘La Casina’ in Drena and also Andrea De Lillo from the Michelin-starred restaurant ‘Nin’ in Riva reimagined freshwater fish for the guests.
The remaining weekends will each have a distinct theme. On 27 September, the Mostra Mercato della Val di Gresta invites visitors to sample organic vegetables and farm specialities. This is followed on 3 and 4 October by the Pumpkin and Winter Vegetable Festival in Lasino. ‘Laghet con Gusto’ on 4 October takes visitors to Lake Tenno and combines regional produce with a culinary trail. In mid-October, the Valle dei Laghi will be celebrating Reboro, a Trentino ‘appassimento’ red wine. On 24 and 25 October, Drena celebrates the chestnut festival. The season concludes on 7 and 8 November with ‘Frantoi Aperti’, featuring olive oil from the Alto Garda region, and the Walnut Festival in Cavrasto.
At the same time, restaurants in Garda Trentino are offering themed menus at weekends in October and November. Dishes on the menu include carne salada, chestnuts, regional vegetables and produce such as broccoli from Torbole. The Mese del Gusto is not a single festival, but a series of markets, tastings, guided tours, cookery sessions and themed menus, which can be perfectly combined with a long sailing weekend.
And, just like last year, many well-known chefs will be taking part once again, some of whom will be working their magic right in front of the guests and will be happy to explain their recipes and cooking tips. It’s rare for foodies to have the chance to watch so many award-winning chefs at work.
Book recommendations
Alpine lakes combines atmospheric photography with information on sailing areas around lakes in Germany, Italy, Austria and Switzerland. Lake Garda is one of the destinations featured. For readers who wish to compare an autumn sailing trip along the northern shore with other water and mountain regions, the book provides a geographical context and suggestions for planning days spent sailing, windsurfing or paddling.
5 ingredients is aimed at crews who want to cook simply whilst on board. The book features recipes with just a few ingredients, includes advice on stocking up on provisions and focuses on meals that require minimal washing-up. It thus complements the culinary focus of the voyage with a practical on-board perspective, for example for provisions between two legs of the journey or for dinner in port.
What sort of ‘foodie’ are you? Are you happy with a simple meal on board whilst sailing? Or does a visit to a good restaurant in the evening really round off the sailing trip? Let us know in the comments.
Pascal Schürmann
Editor YACHT