This is the second part of our sailing report along the Costa degli Dei in south-western Italy. You can read the first part here. Most charter skippers in the region opt for the north coast of Sicily or the outer Aeolian Islands Whilst the “Coast of the Gods” is a destination renowned for its spectacular volcanic landscape, very few people have it on their radar – and quite wrongly so!
At anchor off Tropea
On a Sunday afternoon, you can hear the hustle and bustle on Tropea’s beach from a distance. Keeping a safe distance, we drop anchor in the most exquisite turquoise waters, at a depth of four to five metres. The soundscape is complemented by a spectacular sight. Tropea sits atop a rocky plateau. You realise just how high up it is, at the very latest, when you climb the steps leading from the marina straight into the winding old town. As always, beauty comes at a price.
An evening stroll verges on overtourism. And you’ve got to like the waiters waving menus outside the restaurants. That doesn’t change the fact, however, that from the terrace at the end of Corso Vittorio Emanuele you have a wonderful view of the landmark: the cliff just offshore with the church of Santa Maria dell’Isola. Full of new impressions, the crew returns on board.
An oracle of the god Mercury
The next destination, even before the first excursion boats arrive, is Capo Vaticano – the Cape of Prophecy. Even in ancient times, it was a striking landmark for sailors travelling between Sicily and the mainland. The Greeks regarded the Tyrrhenian Sea as dangerous because of its storms and currents, which is why headlands such as Capo Vaticano were often imbued with mythical significance
Tradition has it that there was once an oracle of the god Mercury there. Sailors sought its prophecies to find out whether they should risk the perilous crossing. We, by comparison, are rather more modest in our aspirations and tend to seek out the magnificent bathing coves.
Cliffs at Capo Vaticano
The cliffs consist of light-coloured granite rocks that rise up to 100 metres high. Deep down at their base in the sea, tiny coves open up – some so hidden that they can only be reached in calm weather by dinghy or by jumping into the water. The famous Praia di Fuoco, for example, Grotticelle or Santa Maria – they all glisten like patches of turquoise at the foot of the sheer cliff face.
Anyone who drops anchor here in the morning can enjoy almost undisturbed tranquillity and crystal-clear water. The seabed consists of fine sand with scattered rock slabs and slopes gently. The anchor holds reliably – though you should allow plenty of space between your boat and your neighbours when mooring, as the small bays can quickly become cramped when the wind shifts. Come the afternoon, during the high season, fully laden day-trippers bring plenty of swell and choppy conditions with them. So, weigh anchor and get out of there. It’s better to make the most of the remaining thermals and set off on a longer leg heading south!
With the swordfish fishermen
Beyond the cape, the coastline recedes. There is little here to compel a stop. Instead, we now come across the first boats of the swordfish fleet, known as ‘passarella’ or ‘spadare’, which are based near the Strait of Messina. Their distinctive silhouette makes them easy to recognise: a long, walk-on boom extending forwards, accompanied by a tall mast with a lookout post from which the crew scan the waters for prey.
Clear visibility and calm waters are essential for the fishermen, so that they can spot the shadows of the swordfish as they swim beneath the surface and then harpoon them. The fishing season runs from May to September, when the fish migrate through the Strait of Messina.
For us as sailors, this means, above all: keep your eyes peeled and change course in good time. Because the boats are slow to manoeuvre and do not like to be distracted – neither from their course nor from the task they are carrying out with great concentration. Anyone who gets too close here may be met with angry glances
Part 1 of the feature You can find it here!
Part 2 of the feature will follow shortly!
More about Italy
- For body and soul: Late summer on Lake Garda
- Volcanic fires and secluded coves: the Aeolian Islands
- Porto Azzurro: Elba’s blue jewel
Jan Jepsen
Freier Autor