The ‘Coast of the Gods’ lies on the Tyrrhenian Sea and showcases Calabria’s maritime side: bright, steep cliffs, small villages perched on rocks, turquoise bays and a cuisine that makes going ashore almost as important as the next anchorage. Anyone travelling here shouldn’t count on a dense network of large marinas. Instead, anchorage stops, local moorings and the conditions on the spot set the pace.
From Pizzo to Tropea: A relaxed start
The journey begins in Pizzo and at the Chiesetta di Piedigrotta. Even from the sea, Pizzo looks like a classic Calabrian coastal scene: the old town stands on the cliff above the water, with the harbour and beach below. When there are light, offshore winds, it is possible to anchor off the town. The cave church of Piedigrotta lies a little to the north and, in the right conditions, can be easily reached by dinghy.
From a nautical point of view, this leg sets the tone: the aim is not to cover as many miles as possible, but to ensure a leisurely journey with enough time for a swim and to approach the destination whilst there is still good light. Anyone arriving at the small, popular coves in the late afternoon should expect it to be busier.
Tropea and Capo Vaticano: Spectacular, but not always peaceful
From Tropea to Capo Vaticano the coastline becomes more striking. Off Tropea, you can drop anchor in turquoise waters at a depth of four to five metres. The old town, situated on a rocky plateau, and Santa Maria dell’Isola provide the panoramic view, whilst the marina offers access for going ashore.
Further south lies Capo Vaticano, with its light-coloured cliffs and narrow coves. Praia di Fuoco, Grotticelle and Santa Maria are charming places to stop if the wind and swell are favourable. The sandy seabed, dotted with rock slabs, often provides good holding. However, the bays are small: when the wind shifts, the yacht needs sufficient space to tack. By the afternoon at the latest, during the season, day-trippers’ boats bring swell and choppy conditions. At that point, it is usually wiser to sail on in good time.
Scilla: Where the waters become more challenging for sailors
The southern end leads to Scilla and the Strait of Messina. Just outside the village where Castello Ruffo is situated, there is no traditional marina, but there are moorings with a shuttle service. This is a handy way to get ashore at Chianalea and up to the fortress.
Above all, however, the nature of the water changes here. The currents and tides off the Strait of Messina demand more attention than at the more sheltered stops further north. The distinctive swordfish boats are also a familiar sight. Their long outriggers and high lookout make them easily recognisable; when crossing their path, it is advisable to keep your distance and exercise caution.
The Costa degli Dei is therefore an ideal area for crews who deliberately keep their legs short. There are no great distances between Pizzo, Tropea, Capo Vaticano and Scilla, but plenty of reasons not to head for the next anchorage too soon. Those with time to spare will discover Calabria as a coastline for sailing, swimming and going ashore – rather than merely a route through to the Aeolian Islands.
Book recommendation
The Mediterranean: A Place of Longing brings together cruise reports, information on sailing areas and planning ideas for water sports holidays in the Mediterranean. This volume complements the ‘Costa degli Dei’ feature where the series deliberately leaves things open: when planning your own cruise and when comparing it with other Mediterranean coasts. For crews wishing to continue on to Calabria or head for another sailing area afterwards, it provides further ideas for routes, bays and shore excursions.
Jan Jepsen
Freier Autor