Western Scotland demands a great deal of flexibility from sailing crews. Between Oban, Kerrera and Tobermory, whisky culture, the wilderness of remote islands, thick fog and challenging tidal currents all lie in close proximity. A trip on the ‘Bolero’ shows why this sailing area is as fascinating as it is challenging.
Arrival in Oban: sunshine, whisky and the first changes in the weather
Visibility is approaching zero. Just a moment ago, we could just about make out the karst-like, moss-covered stretches of shore; now the clouds are already sinking back down to sea level. Other boats are heading towards AIS and radar can be made out, but only come into view shortly before entering the Firth of Lorne. Scotland in July. “You need to know what you’re getting yourself into here when you come on board,” Christina Franzel-Beier and Edgar Prochnow had warned over the phone a few days earlier. They’d sailed their ‘Bolero’ up the east coast of England and through the Caledonian Canal to the west. For weeks, they’d battled through changeable weather, stormy winds and driving rain, with temperatures sometimes in single figures.
And then this: in glorious sunshine, I step off the train in Oban, sweating, with my sailing boots and offshore oilskins, thermal underwear and woollen hat in my luggage. Lush green hills surround the bay, whilst houses made of sandstone and granite – some with bay windows, others plain – line the waterfront promenade.
Fishing boats are moored at the pier, and fish and chips are on sale from stalls. Seagulls lie in wait for easy prey. The air is as clear and fresh as the dark blue water of the bay. Towering over it all is not a castle, but a gigantic Colosseum – the city’s landmark, which seems strangely out of place in Scotland.
‘Whisky’, on the other hand, is generally used almost as a synonym for Scotland. Obán’s iconic distillery, with its dark walls, nestles between rocks and more modern buildings. When it was built in 1794, the town did not yet exist, and so it has literally grown into the town over the centuries. Even behind the unassuming entrance, the layout is winding and, in places, very low-ceilinged, as if a distillery had been crammed into the hold of a cargo sailing ship.
The lighting bathes glasses and bottles containing various vintages of this spirited drink in a soft, honey-gold glow. On the way up, you can catch a glimpse of the production area with its gleaming copper stills. The warm atmosphere has what it takes to captivate even those new to whisky culture.
Just a few steps further on, the ‘Oban Inn’ – the oldest pub in the area – transports us back centuries with its dark wood panelling, exposed beams and slate floors. In keeping with the traditional atmosphere, there are neither televisions nor background music; instead, there are lively conversations amongst the many guests who make themselves comfortable here in the late afternoon. Outside the pub, we watch the hustle and bustle on the promenade and out on the water whilst sipping cold drinks – and observe the weather as it undergoes one of its sudden changes. First, we pull on our jumpers; not long after, scarves and rain jackets come into use too.
Kerrera: Highland cattle, rain and silence
A taxi boat takes us over to the offshore island of Kerrera, where Christina and Edgar moored the ‘Bolero’ in the marina the day before, amidst rain and gusts of wind. As we walk along the east coast, a fine drizzle seeps between our skin and our clothes. On this tiny islet, with a population of just 40, there is plenty to see: An old castle perched on high cliffs at the southern tip of the island; the Kerrera Tea Garden, a popular café for scones, clotted cream and tea; a circular walking trail with endless views towards Oban on one side and islands such as Jura and Mull on the other. So much for the theory. In practice, the clouds hang just above the hills, and visibility is limited. Between a white-grey, cotton-wool-like layer of clouds and a layer of thick, green grass – both damp – the silence is almost palpable.
The landscape follows the contours of the lake, with green, undulating and steep hills that break off abruptly at the ridges and slope down towards the lake. Highland cattle trot along leisurely, peering curiously from behind tufts of red hair with their large eyes at the creatures in waterproofs and walking boots. Sheep graze on the hilltops, and behind them, in the mist-shrouded Oban Bay, numerous sailors continue undeterred on their courses during a club regatta.
The path leads past Ardent Farm, a white farmhouse with a small self-service farm shop. Large chests contain meat from Highland cattle and lambs, whilst the shelves are stocked with eggs, fruit and vegetables, handmade souvenirs and a little cat that eagerly jumps up when the freezer is opened. Payment is made via a ‘trust-based’ till or online; there’s not a soul to be seen on the farm.
The persistent rain drives us indoors, to the Waypoint Restaurant at the marina. Since 2021, both have been run by the same family, who are treating themselves to a small celebration today. ABBA and other old-school hits blare from the speakers. Glasses clink; a young man is knocked backwards off his chair. Rarely have expectations of a country been so fully met within the space of a few hours as they have here.
Fog in the Firth of Lorne
The next morning, we make our way through dense, man-high ferns up to a huge obelisk, Hutcheson’s Monument. From the water, it is a striking landmark; from land, you can get a good overview of the situation at sea. Provided, of course, that it is visible. For a thick fog still hangs over the Firth of Lorne and the Isle of Mull, our next destination. The planned route to Tobermory in the north-east of the Isle of Mull remains visible only on the map. It is only shortly before we set off that the fog lifts just enough for us to navigate through it with relative safety.
So here we are, sailing along cautiously. Quiet and as if wrapped in cotton wool – that in itself is a bit eerie, but that’s not the only challenge: at the Sound of Mull, three waterways meet and the Tide into one another. Real eddies and steep waves cause the boat to veer off on a course of its own for a moment. Full concentration is required.
Sound of Mull: Tides, Castles and Literary History
To starboard, clouds drift over the crest of a green hill behind the majestic, white Lismore Lighthouse on Eilean Musdile, which could quite rightly also be described as a literary tower: It was built by Robert Stevenson, grandfather of the famous writer Robert Louis Stevenson, author of *Treasure Island*. The first chief lighthouse keeper at Eilean Musdile, in turn, was Robert Selkirk, a descendant of Alexander Selkirk, who inspired Daniel Defoe to write ‘Robinson Crusoe’.
Meanwhile, on the port side, the clouds part to reveal Duart Castle on a headland. A good two miles before it, a marked rock juts out of the water: Lady’s Rock, named after a story from the early 16th century. It was here that the lord of the castle, Chief MacLean, had his wife – a member of the Campbell clan – set ashore at low tide so that the rising tide would carry her away. But fishermen rescued her and took her back to her family – the start of a clan feud lasting more than 150 years, at the end of which the Campbells captured the castle.
In the well-sheltered Sound of Mull, the wind dies down. Ahead, a hint of sunshine can be glimpsed; astern, the curtain closes once more. It felt like November just a moment ago, but now it at least feels like early May. Here and there, a ferry crosses our path. The shore recedes into bays and then draws closer again. On both sides, the hills are covered with meadows and woods, the remains of old ruins and stately manor houses.
Tobermory: Colourful houses and an area with no fixed plans
In the afternoon, Tobermory comes into view. Small, colourful houses line the shore, whilst sturdier, darker ones stand further up the verdant coastline. In the bay, boats are moored to buoys, and in front of them, a historic steamship blends harmoniously into the scenery.
As we moor in the harbour, a whole little group is already standing by on the jetty, ready to lend a hand – all of them German. They’ve chartered a boat in Oban and are already on their way back. “It’s brilliant, but a week is far too short for this area,” says the skipper. They’d actually planned to sail to the Outer Hebrides, but had to bow to the weather and stay closer to the coast. Their conclusion: “It’s best not to make any plans here at all, but just take things as they come.”
From 11 October 2026 in Part 2: From Tobermory, the route continues along the coast of Mull, through the Sound of Sleat and on to Loch Nevis: featuring a Scottish mini-summer, dolphins, minke whales and secluded anchorages.
West Highlands area: Weather, wind and navigation
Wind and weather: The best time to visit is between May and September, with average daytime temperatures of 17 to 20 degrees, although night-time temperatures can drop below 10 degrees. In early summer, the wind tends to blow from the north/east; later in the season, it blows from the south-west at 10 to 15 knots. On the coasts, gusts and sudden changes in wind direction are to be expected, and storms are also possible. When using weather apps, UKV, the high-resolution Weather model from the UK Met Office, which proved to be the most reliable during the trip.
Navigation: The tidal current is usually less than two knots, but can reach up to eight knots in narrow passages. When the wind is against the current, conditions quickly become unpleasant; careful route planning is essential. The tidal range varies between 2.50 and 5 metres, depending on the location and the tidal period. There are many ferries and merchant ships on the main routes.
Ports and anchorages: During the season, marinas book up quickly; advance booking is recommended and, in some cases, compulsory. Most marinas have floating jetties. The marina guide ‘Welcome Anchorages’ is available free of charge at many marina offices and is also available online as a PDF.
In the bays and lochs, you can drop anchor or moor to a mooring buoy when the weather is suitable. Cruising sailors have specially equipped their boats with the “Antares 814 Charts” detailed digital – though unofficial – nautical charts of the anchorages and channels in western Scotland. They are drawn to a scale more than ten times larger than the official UKHO charts and show significantly more detail, such as water depths and potential large submerged rocks. Some charts also include areas that fall dry at low tide or seabed gradients for anchoring.
Getting here If you’re not travelling by boat, you can fly to Edinburgh or Glasgow. Many coastal towns are easily accessible from there by bus or train, travelling through breathtakingly beautiful countryside. A valid passport and an Electronic Travel Authorisation (ETA) are required for entry. The ETA is available at GOV.UK or via the ‘UK ETA’ app. It costs around 20 euros. Please note: third-party websites charge significantly higher fees!
Webinar tip: If you’d like to take tidal currents and tidal range into account more reliably when planning your stages, this webinar will provide you with a more in-depth understanding of Webinar on tidal sailing Practical navigation in tidal waters.
Further reading on the area: Western Scotland: rugged but welcoming.
Scotland isn’t the sort of place for a rigid sailing itinerary. Is it precisely this combination of weather risks, tides and magnificent scenery that makes it so appealing? Join the discussion and share your experiences in the comments.
Ursula Meer
Redakteurin Panorama und Reise