In this article:
All boats with a propeller under the hull have it, the so-called wheel effect. It varies depending on the type of drive and the shape of the hull, but is always present. The effect causes the stern of the boat to move sideways when starting off. It can be used deliberately for manoeuvring and can make some starts and stops very elegant. Rowers who ignore it, on the other hand, sometimes break out in a sweat.
Knowledge of the wheel effect is a must for every skipper. Especially when it comes to an unfamiliar yacht, such as when chartering, you should know the effect in order to position the boat accordingly during harbour manoeuvres.
The correct term is actually propeller effect, as it is caused by a phenomenon on the prop. However, the term wheel effect has prevailed, as this describes the effect and is more intuitive. This is because the propeller can be imagined as a wheel that touches the ground and runs along it.
When travelling astern, the wheel effect is much more pronounced than when travelling forwards
A right-turning propeller, as on most modern yachts, runs to the right over the bottom and pulls the stern to the right. In reverse, when the prop is turning anti-clockwise, the same thing happens, only to the left. When travelling astern, the effect is also much more pronounced than when travelling forwards, which is why reversing is considered first in the following. The drawings on this page are also designed accordingly.
The wheeling effect is caused by a build-up of water under the hull. The hull of the boat acts as a kind of lid that prevents the water from being transported evenly. Without the hull, i.e. on a free-standing propeller, the blades would transport the same amount of water at every position during their circular movement. So with a propeller turning anti-clockwise in reverse, the blades would move downwards on the left-hand side, upwards on the right-hand side, to the left on the top and to the right on the bottom. However, this even transport is hindered by the hull. Put simply, the blades throw the water against the hull as they move upwards. There it accumulates and exerts pressure on the hull.
This does not affect the current on the underside of the prop. It therefore constantly shovels water to starboard. Negative pressure is created on the port side, which pulls the stern along. Overpressure is created on the starboard side. The steeper the hull shape, as with an S-frame, the more it obstructs the propeller flow. It then no longer hits the hull vertically, but at an angle, exerting greater pressure. If it is also a long keel boat, where the prop works in a tunnel, the keel acts like a separating plate. The prop can only move water from one side to the other and the wheel effect is very pronounced.
However, the type and position of the drive also have an influence on the strength. The further away the propeller is from the axis of rotation of the boat, the greater the torque it can exert. For example, a yacht with a shaft drive will always have a stronger wheel effect than a comparable boat with a saildrive, as this is much closer to the axis of rotation.
In addition, with a saildrive, the prop is positioned vertically in the water and the propeller jet is therefore directed horizontally away from it. However, with a shaft system that is normally inclined by around 15 degrees, the propeller jet hits the hull at the same angle from bottom to top, which increases the stalling effect.
This means that modern yachts with a flat U-frame and saildrive normally have a much less pronounced wheeling effect than older S-spans or even long-keelers. With the latter, the effect can even be so strong that travelling astern becomes impossible. The prop then pulls so strongly to the side that the usually small rudder behind the keel cannot counteract it. In such a case, the only thing that helps is to correct the course with short forward thrusts, as shown in the diagram on page 76.
There are also several reasons why the wheel effect is stronger aft than ahead. For example, the propeller jet hits much less hull surface when travelling forwards. The prop is mounted at the rear, where the hull ends. In addition, it does not reach as deep there and can therefore interfere less with the propeller flow. The most important reason, however, is the rudder. With thrust ahead, the propeller is already flowing against it when stationary, generating corresponding pressure and counteracting lateral drift.
In contrast to reversing, the type of propulsion has hardly any influence on the strength of the wheel effect. As mentioned, the prop on a yacht with a saildrive generates a relatively low angular momentum anyway due to its proximity to the axis of rotation. This is stronger with a shaft system. However, as the prop sits directly in front of the rudder, the full force of the propeller current hits the blade, and the effect can usually be compensated for by a slight rudder angle.
Fortunately, this counter-steering against the wheel effect is intuitive and usually does not require much practice. If a course change to port is required from a standstill, the wheel effect supports this, as the prop turns to the right when engaged and thus moves the stern to starboard. Only a small amount of rudder needs to be applied. However, if you want to move to starboard, the wheel effect has the opposite effect. This means that considerably more rudder is required. The only thing that takes some getting used to is starting straight ahead with a stronger wheel effect. A little rudder angle to starboard is then necessary.
As the examples in this article show, the wheel effect can simplify manoeuvres such as mooring alongside a pier. However, it can also make manoeuvres impossible, such as turning in a confined space, if the wrong side of the yacht is chosen. Every skipper should therefore be aware of this peculiarity of their boat in order to incorporate it correctly into their manoeuvre planning.
It is a good idea to practice in an open harbour area or in calm weather outside the harbour with a fender as a reference object: Accelerating from a standstill astern, full circles forwards and backwards and stopping are all you need to do.
The effect helps when turning to the right side