The scene seems strange, at least in a harbour: eight men and women are standing on the pier in Tromsø, looking out to sea and chatting. They have travelled here from Austria, Germany and Switzerland. So far, so good. But they have not only shouldered duffle bags, they are also holding ski bags in their hands. And their conversation is not just about the upcoming wind conditions or the question of whether anyone is prone to seasickness. "How many ascents per day are actually planned?" one of the women wants to know. Another asks in Styrian dialect: "Samma aufd Nocht am Lond?" And a third declares in an unmistakably Rhenish tone: "I've brought my skis." He means his skis.
The solution to the riddle: they are all talking so excitedly to each other, they are the participants of an unusual trip. They have booked a week's "Ski and Sail Lyngen Alps" holiday. Just like me. And I'm not the only one feeling a certain amount of tension just before the start.
Snow on the deck, cosy warmth in the saloon
It is snowing in Tromsø's city harbour. On the opposite shore, the spectacularly illuminated Arctic Ocean Cathedral, the city's landmark, shines brightly. Embarkation is announced. The luggage is carried over dimly lit floating docks to the two-master "Duen III", which is moored in a parcel with a fishing boat. Boatswain Tai helps to hoist bags and ski sacks safely over the railing on board.
"What have I let myself in for?" I ask myself silently as I step onto the snow-covered, slippery deck. The same question comes back to me shortly afterwards as my gaze wanders over the faces of my fellow travellers in the cosy warmth of the saloon. Average age: under 30. They are all younger than my children! I hope I can keep up with them. Because next week's programme really has it all.
The organiser marks the tour with the abbreviation "ZS" - quite difficult
"Sailing in Arctic waters. Daily ski tours with ascents of 900 to 1,300 metres in altitude. Deep snow descents from the summit down to the sea." That's what the tour description says. The organiser, Alpine Welten from Berghülen near Ulm, marks the tour on its website with the abbreviation "ZS" - quite difficult. The prerequisite for taking part in this "challenging alpine undertaking" is a good level of fitness and "great seriousness in the face of particular danger". Well, that could be fun!
The desire for adventure is awakened
After everyone has got to know each other, Dave, our skipper, starts the briefing. "Safety on board" is the topic. He talks about fire and water, cold and ice and the dangers on deck and below. He discusses important and survival-related topics. He gives advice on correct behaviour on the ship and on the dinghy. In short, Dave tells you everything you need to know.
But one thing it doesn't do is scare people. On the contrary! The young Brit gives us newcomers the feeling that we are in good hands in a humorous way. And he whets our appetite for the adventures that lie ahead. Although the guests on this cruise can all converse in German, the language on board is English. He, Dave, assumes that everyone agrees, especially as there is no alternative - he simply doesn't speak any other language. Charm and humour replace democracy. In any case, the ice on board is broken, while it continues to snow incessantly outside. Over Labskaus for dinner, Manuel, a mountain guide from Pfronten in the Allgäu, lets us in on his plans for the coming days.
"What have I let myself in for?", I ask myself a third time as I move into my bunk in the foredeck later that evening. Improvisation is called for when stowing the extensive sailing and skiing equipment in the tightest of spaces. Where to put all this stuff?
Hurtigruten and the Northern Lights- Norway as you dream of it
Skipper Dave and Tai, who comes from Australia and is a kind of factotum on board the "Duen III", want to set off early the next morning at seven o'clock. But the decks of all the boats in the harbour are covered in a thick layer of snow. This is not unusual in Tromsø, even in April. So we don't set off until two hours later.
As we set sail, we spot the first "aurora borealis", even if it is only the "Polarlys", the flagship of the traditional Hurtigruten fleet of post ships, which is omnipresent on the Norwegian coast. Hopefully my wish will come true and the sky will clear up in the next few days so that we can also see real auroras.
With light snowfall still falling, our ketch heads north. The first anchorage is in Langsundet, a narrow passage between the islands of Reinøya and Ringvassøya. In view of the biting cold and strong winds, the anticipation of the planned first ski tour is limited. The news from home the day before of four avalanche victims as a result of snowfall in the region depresses the mood. It's good that Manuel takes the wind out of their sails. He describes the planned ascent to Reinskartinden as a rather easy ski tour in not very steep terrain. So off we go!
Ski equipment and lifejacket in the dinghy
While Dave and Tai routinely carry out the anchor manoeuvre, things are rather turbulent in the deckhouse. Our nine-man rope team pack their rucksacks for the day trip, put on warm mountain clothing and ski touring boots. Special feature: not only an avalanche transceiver, but also a life jacket must be put on. The best of both worlds, so to speak. After all, the dinghy has to take you to land. Skis and poles are taken out of the stowage boxes on deck and prepared for shipping. Snow and ice make it difficult to get into the dinghy via a rope ladder. But the group works together purposefully and prudently - a good start.
Equipped with a dry suit, boatman Tai takes us across in two trips. Putting on the suit is no exaggeration. Tai has to go into the water to land and pull the dinghy the last bit ashore. There are no jetties far and wide here. We are in the middle of nature.
The area is rough, and storms and snow are not uncommon until April. On clear days, however, the fjords and mountains reveal their majestic beauty"
Shortly afterwards, as we put non-slip skins on our touring skis for the ascent, the fog clears and the sky opens up. Against the dark blue of the polar sky, the 1,051 metre-high Soltindan on Ringvassøya rises up unexpectedly, cloaked in sparkling white. What a sight; it brings joy.
The view from the summit extends as far as the anchored yacht
The ascent to Reinskartinden, which is almost 200 metres lower, is a leisurely one along snow-covered forest roads and paths. In the fresh deep snow, our mountain guide lays a gently ascending track through the low birch forest typical of these latitudes. The young tourers easily keep up Manuel's pace. They enjoy the brisk ascent. I, on the other hand, have to let go. But that's not a bad thing, as the short breaks give me time to take photos. And it's worth it here! Halfway to the summit, the sun is shining and the view extends all the way down to the sea, where our sailing yacht is moored in solitude.
As I turn back towards the mountain, a few trolls hurry through the sparse forest. At least that's what I think until I recognise the shadows flitting through the birch trees as my companions. The Nordic mythical creatures have lured me onto the wrong track in the silence of nature. I quickly pick up the right one again. It's important to keep up, because new clouds are approaching. Before we reach the summit, the clouds close in. It is difficult for the rearguard to recognise the tracks of those in front, which are quickly blown away by the wind.
Summit happiness and potential disaster are close together
We are in whiteout. Orientation is hardly possible due to the diffuse reflection of the sunlight and the low contrast. Ground and sky merge seamlessly into one another. Happiness on the summit and potential disaster are close together up here. It's time to make our way back. And with vigour: the endless descent in deep snow up to your hips rewards you for all the exertions of the ascent. What an experience!
It's over far too quickly. Back on board, we enjoy the afternoon tea prepared by Dave and Tai in the wood-panelled saloon, including delicious biscuits. Wonderfully typical British. And while we are still drinking and sipping, the two of them weigh anchor to take us to a safe bay for the night.
The wind is favourable as we drop to the east at the northern end of the sound. Tai makes ready to hoist the mainsail and headsail. When it starts to snow again, he shrugs and puts on latex gloves lined with a warm fleece. Tai is hardy. In winter he works as a boatman, in summer he devotes himself to his second passion, base jumping in a wingsuit in the fjords of southern Norway. Respect.
Frozen sails are part of the Arctic Circle
Sailing beyond the Arctic Circle has as much in common with a Mediterranean cruise as a walk around the Outer Alster Lake has with the Hamburg Marathon. Sails and running rigging are frozen. It takes time to set the main in the second reef. And even the furling genoa will not offer the wind more than half of its surface area to attack today. Kneeling in the snow, Tai pulls the greatly reduced cloth tight with the help of the mighty winch. We won't even be able to set the full sail area of 165 square metres for the whole week. In view of all the fantastic, frosty motifs on board, the photographer's heart warms. But cold on the fingers.
Sailing beyond the Arctic Circle has as much in common with a Mediterranean cruise as a walk around the Outer Alster Lake has with the Hamburg Marathon
The deck is deserted. The young crew gather in the deckhouse around Dave at the helm. He gives an exciting account of previous trips to even more northerly climes. Modern on-board electronics enable him to navigate safely upwind, even in the increasing snowfall. We reach the bay of Akkarvik. In the evening, the diesel stove with its long stovepipe warms the saloon. Spaghetti with meatballs and tomato sauce makes us feel cosy and comfortable. The impressions of the first day on board and on the mountain are recapitulated.
The next day also gets off to a great start. Tai and Dave have laid on a fantastic breakfast buffet. It's hard to beat the offerings of star accommodation.
The perfect skiing experience
The best conditions for another unforgettable adventure in the far north of Norway. However, we have no idea what an impressive ski tour lies ahead of us when we cross over in the dinghy. But one thing at a time. The sun is shining as the group sets off for the landing. Our destination is Trolltinden - we have finally arrived in the land of the trolls. Manuel's announcement: "850 metres in altitude to the summit" dispels any last doubts; it can be done. Especially as the sun is shining and the wind is light.
And we actually reach the top after about three hours. Once again, we have to take breaks during the ascent. Not because I'm running out of breath, of course, but because of the breathtaking views of the neighbouring islands and their mountains with their sometimes bizarre rock formations. Together with the azure blue sea and the sky dotted with a few clouds, they make for almost kitschy postcard motifs.
We discover a very special motif just below the summit: the House of the Trolls. At least the snow-covered hut looks as if it is home to the mythical creatures of Norse mythology. Shortly afterwards, untouched, pristine white slopes spread out before us. We are the first to leave our tracks on them. "Neat, Heinz!" Niki calls out to me appreciatively during the descent. We are all good skiers. It's like a rush through the deep snow. It sprays, it dusts. Polar powder. You don't find powder snow like this every day. We glide downhill in wide, regular turns. The perfect skiing experience!
One more time! The young group decides in favour of a second summit attempt. Adrenalin and endorphins prevent me from objecting. After another two hours or so, the group is back at the start of the deep-snow adventure. "What a fantastic descent!", Patrick is not the only one to exclaim at the end.
The "Duen III" has a wood-fired hot tub
On our return to Akkarvik, the view over the snow-framed bay with our anchored sailing ship is also fantastic. Back on board, we have time to enjoy the glorious sunshine on the foredeck. Recharge our batteries after 1,600 metres of ups and downs. The weather is forecast to deteriorate over the next few days. But it's still calm, so we motor to the island of Uløya with 215 hp at a speed of eight knots. Viktoria, a quality manager from Graz, and Patrick, a lawyer from Zurich, take turns at the helm, clad in thick oilskins. Meanwhile, Dave willingly tells us interesting facts about the history of the "Duen III".
She was built in 1987 according to plans by Robert Perry, a renowned American boat designer. The ketch circumnavigated the world twice under its previous owner. For some years now, she has been chartered out in Arctic waters.
The combined sailing and skiing season in the Lyngen Alps usually begins in February and ends at the beginning of May. The owner then moves the "Duen III" around 1,000 kilometres north into the Arctic Ocean to Spitsbergen until the end of the summer. To the delight of the charter guests, he has equipped the ship with a wood-fired hot tub on the aft deck. Due to the approaching front and the resulting forced break, we are allowed to make ourselves comfortable in the hot water the following day.
Wind and snow make sailing and skiing a challenge
But before that, bad weather or not, another ski tour and descent is on the agenda. And that's on Uløytinden. We have to get there first. The sky is grey, cloudy and windy when Manuel calls us to set off at eight in the morning. Waves coming into the dinghy make the transfer ashore difficult. Tai steers with confidence. Fortunately, the weather is still reasonably stable during the ascent. However, poor visibility and cold fingers make the subsequent 1,100 metre descent much less enjoyable.
Nevertheless, the anticipation of the hot bath on the aft deck increases as a result. The ship is quickly moved to Uløybukta due to the heavy swell at the anchorage, and then the time has come for the bath. The youngsters spend three hours alternating between the hot tub and cooling off in the ice-cold sea against the snow-covered backdrop of the surrounding islands. Arctic at your fingertips; don't forget your hat!
This also applies to the coming days. Strong winds and repeated snowfall not only make navigation difficult. They also make ski tours a real challenge. It's a good thing that Manuel has arranged to meet up with a friend of his. Ivo is leading another group of ski tourers from our organiser. Staying at the "Hotel Koppangen Brygger", they are envious of our floating accommodation. We quickly make friends and master the ascents together.
With wind and snowfall, the youngsters have a clear advantage. Despite his impressive physique, Hartmut, at 78 the oldie in the other group, decides to forgo the summit ascent of Storhaugen shortly before the finish. As if he had suspected it, the mountain guide in front has turned round to accompany him on the descent. Like a troll, Ivo suddenly appears out of nowhere. In the mystical atmosphere of fog and clouds, the world of Nordic legends is omnipresent.
The "Duen III" has more comfort than a mountain hut
The week of touring in this Arctic environment is fundamentally different from similar endeavours in the Alps. And life on the boat is soothingly different from life in a barren mountain hut. No multi-throated snoring echoes through a large dormitory. No alarm clock puts an abrupt end to half-sleep at four o'clock in the morning so that you can tackle the summit as early as possible. And there is also no group bathroom where, to make matters worse, only ice-cold spring water comes out of the tap. No, a boat like this has much more comfort to offer.
All fellow sailors agree on this, even those who get seasick from time to time. Here on the "Duen III" everything is much more cosy because it's more leisurely. In our "sailing mountain hut" there is no reason to hurry in April, given the already long days in the high latitudes. What's more, the group is small. And despite the lack of space, the double cabins provide sufficient intimacy and room for personal belongings.
What's more, the ship is not just a vessel and a floating hotel. It is also a sports ground and party mile. Because there's a party on the forecastle. It's Max's birthday. Dressed warmly and wearing a hat, we toast the now 30-year-old anaesthetist. His wife Melina, also a doctor, and he love Norway. In the summer, the two of them head north with their motorhome and kayak. There Max pursues his great passion, fishing.
Deceleration and relaxation far away from civilisation
After the drink, he gives a demonstration of his skills on the forecastle. Within a few minutes, he manages to pull the fresh ingredients for a delicious evening meal on board from the cold waters of the North Sea. Chapeau!
Magdalena, a physiotherapist from Graz, takes advantage of the calm weather and the tranquillity of the bay to take a short trip to the rig. She enjoys the view of the hustle and bustle on deck from up there. It's very peaceful here at anchor. The seclusion, the lack of traffic and the unaccustomed peace and quiet away from civilisation have helped her to slow down and relax.
The clock shows 1,265 metres in altitude as we let our gaze wander from Ullstinden to the surrounding islands and bays the next day. The young group that had rushed ahead had welcomed their senior, me, to this last summit of the tour with a round of applause.
It's cold on deck on the way back to Tromsø. The wind is whistling. "Duen III" is pounding through choppy seas. I think about the famous sailors Heide and Erich Wilts. How were they able to withstand much more adverse conditions on their long journeys in the high latitudes on a much smaller ship? And how did they still have so much fun, as Heide Wilts describes so excitingly in her books?
Northern lights at the end of the Norway cruise
You probably have to love the cold and wet, the wind and the waves just as much as the calm days at sea. The cruise around the Lyngen Alps is the perfect way to discover such a love. The return to the harbour goes smoothly. A final routine mooring manoeuvre brings us alongside the jetty. We put our skis in the bags, pack our clothes and, after a delicious carbonara on board, get ready to go ashore. We soon board the "Bastards Bar" led by the skipper. With live music and draught beer, the atmosphere in the well-filled pub is Scandinavian and relaxed. Later, we move to the lobby of the "Verdensteatret". The trendy meeting place in Norway's oldest film theatre attracts tourists as well as the local youth. Finally, we head to "Heidi's Bier Bar", the self-proclaimed Dorado of après-ski in Tromsø.
But the highlight of the night still awaits us. On the way back to the ship, the wish we expressed at the beginning of the trip is fulfilled: in the early morning, the northern lights twinkle in the sky above the harbour. In the clear night, the firmament glows in unreal colours. An overwhelming spectacle of nature. And a worthy end to an eventful week. With these memories and images in our luggage, it's time to say goodbye. The next morning, we disembark the ship and enjoy the view of the mountains and sea one last time. Then we troll off.
Tromsø, the metropolis of the North Sea
Just 600 kilometres from the North Cape, the "Paris of the North" is considered the gateway to the Arctic. Famous polar explorers such as Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen set off on their daring expeditions from here. Today, tourists from all over the world come to marvel at the Northern Lights in winter and the light of Midsummer Night in summer. From Storsteinen, the local mountain, you can enjoy marvellous views of the ramified world of the surrounding fjords and sounds. Around the lively harbour, the old town with its boutiques and cosy cafés and pubs is inviting. The small but well-organised Polar Museum in Tromsø is a reminder of the great days of the explorers.
Ship, organiser and cruise operator
The two-master, built in 1987 and based in Tromsø, can accommodate groups of up to ten people. New anchorages are visited daily during the cruise. The crew provides full board for the guests and organises transfers ashore for the ski tours. The season runs from the end of February to the beginning of May. Info: DUENEXPERIENCE.COM
In German-speaking countries, some mountain guides or mountain schools offer such sailing trips for tourers, usually lasting a week. Booking is possible for groups as well as for berth charterers.
Specialists for the Lyngen Alps:
- ALPINEWELTEN.COM (Germany)
- ALPVENTURA.CH (Switzerland)
- PAULHELD.AT (Austria)
The district and the mountains
The Lyngen Alps, up to 1,834 metres high, extend over 90 kilometres in a north-south direction on the Lyngen peninsula. The area between Ullsfjord and Lyngenfjord is hardly developed for tourism; in summer it is a paradise for hikers, as are the surrounding sparsely populated islands. The region is an insider tip for ski tourers due to its remoteness and the fact that snow is guaranteed until well into spring. In the few harbours, there are only very limited places available for guest yachts. The archipelago's numerous anchor bays offer protection against the wind, which fluctuates greatly in strength and direction throughout the year, and usually have good anchorage grounds. The climate is cool and arctic, with maximum temperatures of 15 degrees in summer and lots of snow during the icy winter months.
Text: Heinz Klausmann
