Outdoor winter storage: What to bear in mind regarding the feed trough, stand and tarpaulin
In the autumn, it is decided how the yacht will spend its months ashore. Anyone overwintering outdoors should discuss not only the berth with the storage operator, but also the positioning of the yacht, how to deal with the mast and how to secure the cover. The following points will help with preparations and with subsequent inspection visits.
Should you leave the mast in winter storage or not?
One question that naturally does not arise when storing boats indoors is whether or not the mast can be left in place. What is generally frowned upon along the German coast is common practice in other countries. All round the Mediterranean, in Scandinavia and even in the Netherlands: everywhere, the masts remain in place – even when the boats are overwintering on land.
There are many reasons for leaving the mast standing: for example, the need for a support for a winter cover in the shape of the mast, the reduced effort involved in preparing the boat for winter storage and taking it out of storage, the risk involved in laying the mast down and putting it back up, and, of course, the cost. Leaving aside the question of whether the mast should be laid flat: is it even permitted to leave it standing? Well, that depends on the operator of the winter storage facility. Many in this country stipulate that the mast must be laid flat, in which case the owner simply has no choice.
The comparison with the … sets out the arguments for and against laying the rig. Winter storage with the mast still in place.
Third-party liability or comprehensive cover: what does the insurance cover?
Before storing your boat, you should clarify whether your own comprehensive insurance covers the intended storage arrangements, including any mast that may be in place, and what requirements apply. Damage to your own boat and claims against a party responsible for such damage must be considered separately. In the event of damage to neighbouring yachts, factors such as the cause and any errors in securing the vessel are relevant. A storm does not automatically mean that all liability is waived. The article on Liability for damage during winter storage. Whether an excess applies or whether a claim affects the premium depends on the terms of the relevant policy.
If, because it is customary in your home waters or for other reasons, you decide to overwinter your boat with the mast still in place, and if this is covered by your own hull insurance, what do you need to bear in mind?
Movement in the rigging increases wear and tear
Vibrations in the rig should be avoided as far as possible. For example, you can route the top-nantfall round the empty furling jib at the front and secure it at the mast foot. This prevents the forestay from flapping as violently. After all, movement always leads to wear and tear. Furthermore, when the mast is standing during winter storage, the shrouds can be loosened slightly, without, however, being too loose. The stays, however, must remain tight. This takes the strain off the boat’s structure.
The frequently given advice to secure the rig to a fixed point on the ground using a halyard should be treated with caution. To avoid further increasing the loads on the rig caused by wind pressure – which occur anyway – the hull and mast must be able to move relative to one another. In the water, the boat could simply heel over in gusts, thereby relieving the load. Whilst these movements are minimal when the boat is on a cradle, even small movements of the hull at a height of several metres can result in a considerable displacement. However, if the mast is tensioned so tightly that it cannot move with the hull, additional loads are created. The mast tops should therefore be secured rather loosely and only as an emergency measure to prevent the mast from toppling over.
Furthermore, you can also fit pilot lines instead of the halyards to prevent them from becoming tangled or wearing out due to excessive movement.
However, it is best to lay the mast down. This also allows you to move the tensioners, which are then less likely to seize up. You can then carry out a visual inspection of the mast at the same time. In particular, check the T-terminals, their retaining plates and the terminals. The top of the winch system is always a particularly critical area that needs to be checked. Are the cables coming loose there, or is the wire twisting? And: do not use ring split pins. Plug-in split pins are simply safer.
By the way: It is compulsory to take the sails down. A furling jib increases the wind load enormously. However, even a furling mainsail that has been stowed in the mast must be taken down. Its weight increases the top load and thus the overall loads.
Support block: Correctly supporting the hull and keel
However, securing the rig is only one aspect of what is involved in storing a boat outdoors. Naturally, the boat must be winterised as usual. Seacocks, the drinking water system, the toilet and the engine all require attention. The upholstery and the batteries too; neither should be left on board during the winter, nor should the gas cylinder. Particular attention must be paid to the cradle on which the boat rests. Is it big enough? Does it fit the hull? Are the supports spaced far enough apart? Are they stable enough?
Thedje Ancker explains: “The wide ships with deep but short keels are quite a challenge. Because of their width, the supports are positioned relatively far inwards. The contact area with the keel is short, so there is little support there. On top of that, the loads on the patches are already enormous. And the further inwards the supports are positioned, the greater the risk that the ship will tip over from the cradle. We therefore work with special cradles, which we provide with additional support where necessary. For long ships, further timbers are placed underneath at the bow and, in particular, at the stern. Then the ship stands securely.”
The trestle must be stable and secure
Supports that are extended particularly far out are lashed together with tension straps to prevent them from bending outwards. Another problem, he adds, is the frequent lack of structural support in the stern of the boats. “That’s where the berths are, often with tanks underneath them. There are no bulkheads there that can be specifically used to provide support,” Ancker continues. Many winter storage operators try to position the boats with the bow facing the prevailing wind direction, which is usually the south-west. Logically, the cradle and the boat are more stable when positioned lengthways. It’s just a pity when the storm doesn’t play along and the wind blows from the north-west. Then the pressure hits them directly from the side.
The boats are often secured to the cradles with tension straps to prevent them from tipping over. It is also important that the cradle itself stands on firm ground and cannot, during prolonged rain and storms, slowly but surely sink into the softened ground at one corner – as this creates a risk of tipping. Some winter storage operators also secure the cradles of the boats positioned on the outside with straps attached to lashing eyes in the ground. This prevents a domino effect and increases the stability of all the boats.
Winter cover: Prevent wind damage and chafing
When storing the boat in the open, it is important to keep it protected from the weather whilst ensuring it is well ventilated. This requires effective openings at the front and rear of the tarpaulin. This allows air to circulate constantly underneath, thereby preventing condensation.
When choosing tarpaulin material, make sure it is robust enough and UV-resistant. Cheap PE tarpaulins from DIY stores can fall to shreds after just a few months. PVC tarpaulins are a better option. Ideally, you should get a tarpaulin from a sailmaker that fits perfectly. That way, nothing flaps about, no pockets of water form, and the loads on the boom and rail supports aren’t as high.
It is also important to secure the cover correctly: if it is securely fastened to the trestle or the hull, that is fine. If weights are hung from the tarpaulin to keep it taut at all times, care must be taken to ensure that they cannot swing about in the wind. Otherwise, there is a risk that it could damage your own hull or even that of a neighbouring boat. The wedges on which the boat rests are not a suitable point for securing the tarpaulin. If the tarpaulin flaps about, there is a risk that the wedges will come loose and eventually fly out. The boat could then capsize. That would constitute gross negligence.
It is also advisable to carry out inspection visits after the equipment has been stored, particularly following strong winds or prolonged rain. During these visits, check for loose fixings, signs of chafing and any pools of water on the tarpaulin. Discuss any changes to supports or the ground with the site operator, rather than adjusting load-bearing parts of the structure on your own initiative.
Outdoor winter storage has many advantages
Storing the mast outside a hangar – whether it is still on board, lying on deck or in the mast storage area – certainly has its advantages. Many tasks that are permitted outdoors are often prohibited inside hangars. Sanding, for example. After consulting the operator, this is often possible. Ensure that regulations are followed, such as covering the ground and providing adequate extraction. And in spring, it is often already warmer outside than in the shed, so you can start painting and polishing sooner. If the boat is overwintering in an open storage area, it may make sense to wait until spring to polish it. This is because if the tarpaulin has left scuff marks on the hull, these can be removed during this stage of the work.
Storing a boat outdoors is not a problem provided it has been properly winterised. It is preferable not to leave the mast in place, though it is possible to do so. There is no evidence to suggest that boats which overwinter ashore with their rigging in place are more prone to mast loss. Furthermore, even when stored in a shed, the boat is not always secure.
What has been your experience of overwintering outdoors, and what guidelines does your winter storage operator set out regarding feeding and shelter?