Nine volcanic peaks rise from the depths of the ocean in the middle of the North Atlantic. They form the Azores archipelago. Most sailors who stop here only stay for a short time. After spending the winter in the Caribbean, they are drawn to Europe's mainland coast after just a few days. Understandable. On the other hand, they are missing out on one of the most beautiful areas they can visit during their long voyage.
Like Madeira, the Azores are now also very popular with hiking holidaymakers. However, there is no tourism worth mentioning on the archipelago. There are no large hotels, sandy beaches are few and far between, and the weather out here is not as stable as in many places in the Mediterranean.
Attractions in the Azores
The Azores score with other attractions. For example, the whales that regularly migrate along the island coasts. They are also popular for their green meadows and their inimitable splendour of flowers and blossoms.
So why not head for this still very unspoilt area without doing the whole North Atlantic circuit? This is much less stressful as part of a sabbatical, for example. The Azores are not only easy to reach from the Caribbean, but also from Madeira. You also remain in the EU and therefore don't have to deal with high additional costs for health or boat insurance. Madeira and the Azores are both autonomous regions of Portugal.
Travelling to the Azores
So cast off! From Northern Europe via the English Channel and the Bay of Biscay, we first head for Galicia in Northern Spain. There, a triangular course begins: in early summer, first via Portugal to Madeira and then, when the returning Caribbean sailors have long since left, the ship crosses over to the Azores. The season there is long. It is not until the beginning of September that it is time to return to Galicia.
The legs from the Iberian Peninsula to Madeira and from there to the Azores are each around 500 nautical miles long. The return journey to the European mainland is longer at 800 nautical miles. But by then the crew will have grown sea legs. All in all, no more than ten to twelve weeks need to be planned for this triangle. That is significantly less than would be needed for a trip to the Caribbean and back. Alternatively, you can leave the boat in the Azores for the winter. In Angra and Praia on Terceira there are harbours on land. Due to the regular winter storms, yachts should not stay in the water there. On Madeira, it is even possible to leave the boat sheltered under the runway at Funchal airport for the winter!
Chartering in the Azores
If you don't have your own boat, you can charter one in the Azores. There are not too many hire yachts. But if you're lucky, you'll find one in Horta and Ponta Delgada. Charter trips with a skipper also depart regularly from Praia on Terceira. This is certainly the better alternative for inexperienced sailors. Sailing in the eternal high pressure is not without its challenges.
Sailing conditions in the Azores
Firstly, there is the Atlantic swell, which can literally hit you in the stomach. And the famous Azores High is not always as stationary as you might expect. The wind can blow from all directions around the islands, depending on where the high is travelling. Nevertheless, it usually only blows moderately in summer. Only when a low pressure system passes far to the north can its foothills make themselves felt in the Azores. Rain and a stiff breeze from the south-west to north can then set in. The fronts are usually weak in summer. However, the sea churned up by the northerly storms can make itself felt as a long swell. Due to its location in the centre of the Atlantic, the weather can be predicted quite accurately up to a week in advance.
Supply
Shock absorbers should be on board. They are highly recommended in the harbours, but are usually sold out at local ship chandlers. Just as other goods are sometimes unavailable in the Azores. This applies, among other things, to the food available in the supermarkets. The supply on the islands is good, but not always perfect. The locals take it in their stride and wait patiently until the next freighter arrives.
Temperatures
In midsummer, it is not too warm and not too cold, with temperatures of around 23 to 26 degrees Celsius. The water is almost as warm. It cools down to 20 degrees at night. Clouds tend to accumulate on the slopes of the volcanic mountains in the afternoon, and on the windward side it can drizzle in summer - giving the islands a beautiful green colour.
Berths
Harbours and anchorages are rare. However, you can almost always find a place. However, when a harbour is full, no one can actually get in, and reservations are not possible. Horta is an exception. A plan B should therefore always be prepared. Of course, good anchoring gear is also a prerequisite for a cruise in the Azores. The harbour fees are around 25 euros. Anchoring off some harbours has also recently become subject to a charge.
Sea charts
We recommend the NV ATL3 or the Imray E1 as a paper chart, and the Imray "Atlantic Islands" as a sailing guide. Useful anchor apps are Navily and NoForeignLand.
9 islands make up the Azores
There are very few sailors who have visited all nine islands. Especially not within one season. The reason: the Azores are divided into three groups, which are 325 miles apart in an east-west direction: the two islands of Flores and Corvo in the west, Faial, Pico, São Jorge, Graciosa and Terceira in the centre, the main island of São Miguel in the south-east and Santa Maria further south. You can sail between the central islands in daily stages of 30 to 60 nautical miles. From there to the western group or to São Miguel, 90 and 140 miles respectively have to be covered.
Flores
Every island is unique. The beautiful, flower-filled island of Flores was unfortunately hit hard by Hurricane Lorenzo in October 2019 and Storm Efrain in December 2022. The reconstruction of the harbour will probably not be completed until 2028. For the time being, at least a dozen sailors can moor behind the breakwater on the quay wall.
Faial
Faial, with its capital Horta, is the westernmost of the central islands and the first stop for those returning to the Caribbean. The harbour is overcrowded from mid-May to mid-June. Anchoring is then permitted in the harbour basin. But beware, especially at the southern end of the basin there are old chains on the seabed that date back to the time of the flying boats. These used the water landing strip between Horta and Pico when they landed here on their way between America and Europe.
Anchoring is strictly prohibited directly north of the harbour and in the very sheltered Porto Pim to the south. Old underwater cables lie at the bottom there. Horta was once also a repeater station for the communication cables between Europe and America.
The marina in Horta has long been on the verge of a major renovation. The new floating jetties have been ready on land for years. The breakwater in the north is also to be extended to create more moorings. Until then, the friendly harbour masters will have to continue to somehow accommodate the more than 1,200 yachts that call at Horta every year in the small marina with its barely more than 300 permanent berths.
In the evenings, blue water sailors from all over the world meet up at the legendary "Peter Café Sport", which opened back in 1918 when the submarine cable station was still in operation. Unfortunately, the pub has long been on the programme of many bus tourists. The genuine yachtie atmosphere is no longer quite as present as it was 20 years ago. Nevertheless, you can't miss out on a gin do mar at "Peter". Henrique, alias Peter, keeps his scrimshaw collection above the harbour pub. Here you can admire ornately decorated whale bones and teeth.
A trip to the Ponta dos Capelinhos lighthouse is also worthwhile. The island was literally expanded by lava and ash as a result of an undersea volcanic eruption in 1957/58 - and the iconic lighthouse suddenly stood in the middle of a lunar landscape. At least it survived the disaster, unlike 500 residential buildings that were buried by the ash.
Underwater volcanoes are not only bubbling off Faial. There is also a position on the direct route between São Miguel and Terceira (38° 13.3 N, 026° 36.3 W) that crews should avoid due to seismic activity. Here, the seabed rises abruptly from over 1,000 metres to 14 metres.
Pico
Pico doesn't actually have a marina at all, apart from Lajes do Pico on the south side. With a single guest berth, this is the smallest marina far and wide. It is possible to anchor in front of the harbour in northeast to southeast winds. However, there are stones almost everywhere on the bottom. Conditions are similar off the old whaling harbour of São Roque do Pico in the north and off Santa Cruz das Ribeiras in the south-east of the island. Nevertheless, a visit to Pico is worthwhile, although perhaps better by ferry. Lajes do Pico was one of the most famous whaling centres. The museum there shows how dangerous the hunts used to be. Today, you can often watch the marine mammals off the south coast of Pico from your own boat.
Sporty hikers can climb Portugal's highest mountain at 2,351 metres, the extinct volcano Pico with its characteristic cloud cap, with a guide.
São Jorge
The clocks tick slower on the hiking and cheese island of São Jorge. Cheese-making takes time. The north side is wild and unspoilt. At an altitude of 500 metres there are two old villages: Norte Pequeno and Norte Grande. One of the most beautiful hiking trails in the Azores leads from there down a steep path to the sea at Fajã da Caldeira Santo Cristo. The small harbour in Velas has space for a dozen guest yachts. Alternatively, anchor behind the breakwater near the rocks as long as the wind and swell are from the west to north-east. Leave enough space for the ferry. At night, yellow-billed shearwaters hang from the cliffs and entertain the anchormen with loud shrieks.
Graciosa
The small island of Graciosa in the far north is rarely visited. Until the turn of the millennium, horses and donkeys were still part of the street scene. The harbour of Vila da Praia is a fishing harbour where two to four yachts can be moored in a packet along the quay wall. However, you can anchor in front of the harbour in very calm weather. Santa Cruz is located in the north-east of the island. The bay there is to be transformed into a modern marina. There are currently three mooring buoys for yachts behind the breakwater. Anchoring is permitted in the bay until the marina is completed, but the ground is rocky.
Terceira
Notorious for its summer fiestas, Terceira in the east of the central islands has more to offer: on the north side, the pools carved out of volcanic rock, the UNESCO World Heritage-listed town of Angra do Heroísmo and the safe anchorage off Praia da Vitória. This is where you will find the only long sandy beach in the Azores.
You can anchor off Angra do Heroísmo or on the opposite side of Monte Brasil. It is only better to go into the harbour if there is a direct wind or swell from the south. The private marina in Praia has space for a few guest moorings and anchoring in the harbour basin is free of charge.
São Miguel
Compared to the central islands, the capital Ponta Delgada on São Miguel is more of a small city. It is more lively. The prices in the restaurants also reflect the international flair. The marinas have over 700 berths. However, like Horta, they are now often occupied by Caribbean returnees. The old capital of the Azores, Vila Franca do Campo, can also be anchored in wind and swell from north-west to north-east. The small harbour has hardly any space for visitors, but you can land with a dinghy.
Swimming and snorkelling are popular in the seawater-filled volcanic crater of Ilhéu de Vila Franca off Vila Franca, which is often depicted on postcards. In calm weather, anchoring is possible on the north side of the island. Or you can simply board one of the excursion boats that take swimmers and snorkellers to Ilhéu.
In the interior of the island, beautiful waterfalls, hot springs, colourful shimmering lakes and the only tea plantation in Europe are also waiting to be discovered. And, of course, volcanoes. With all these attractions, you can easily spend a week on São Miguel.
Santa Maria
Finally, Santa Maria lies a whole degree of latitude further south. Columbus anchored here in February 1493 when he was on his way home from his first voyage to America. A mistake: half of his crew, sailing under the Spanish flag, were immediately captured by the Portuguese. They were only released when Columbus assured them that he was not spying for Spain and was actually Portuguese himself.
The climate on Santa Maria is warmer than on the other islands. The harbour of Vila do Porto is therefore a possible place of refuge even in winter. There are also several safe anchorages, which should make the island even more attractive for sailors.
From Santa Maria, São Miguel or Terceira, you then return to northern Spain or Portugal as described above. Hopefully there will be plenty of unforgettable impressions in the wake.
