Netherlands: From Zeeland to the Waddenzee - through Markermeer and IJsselmeer

We could stay longer in Amsterdam, but we want to continue on to the Markermeer! So we leave "het Afgesloten IJ" through the Oranjesluizen eastwards towards Marken and Lelystad. The lock operates at close intervals with the neighbouring bridge, which opens every 20 minutes. It is another twelve miles to Muiderzand, where we keep strictly to the buoys.

Past the Marken lighthouse

For years, seaweed has been growing in the Markermeer, stubbornly clinging to keels, rudder blades and, above all, propellers. Despite a dedicated waterplough app and the regular use of mowing vessels, the emergency services carry out countless missions for yachts with creepers in their propulsion systems year after year. In the western part in particular, only the designated fairways are really safe, and we use these to head north.

We pass the famous Marken lighthouse at a safe distance and after 25 miles we reach the Enkhuizen lock. Behind the gate, the IJsselmeer and one of the most beautiful places on the former Zuiderzee with several harbours await us.

In the Compagniehaven of Enkhuizen

The Compagnieshaven, a large marina with modern shower facilities, a shipyard and a well-stocked boat chandlery, is located opposite the Zuiderzee Museum, which is well worth a visit and recreates life over the last two centuries for young and old alike.

On our next leg, the IJsselmeer shows its rough side: we cross against winds of up to 20 knots from the north-north-west to Makkum at the other end of the pond. We set the first hook south of Stavoren off the notorious Vrouwenzand.

Across the IJsselmeer to Makkum

The wind spares us the flies and mosquitoes that hover over the area, especially in calm conditions, but the steep IJsselmeer wave gives us several low blows, especially in the first half. We reach Makkum in the late afternoon. Better: we prefer the marina with its swimming pool, neighbouring campsite and many attractions for children to the town harbour.

Another advantage is the short distance to the Kornwerderzand lock. As the holidays have just started in NRW and the major provinces of the Netherlands, we start a little earlier than the tide would actually require and enter the Wadden Sea without any waiting time. Our next destination is Vlieland, the quiet, practically car-free sister of Texel.

Back in the North Sea!

With the tide, the fairway to the islands off Harlingen is reached an hour later. In the Blauwe Slenk, we accept another hour of counter-current in order to sail north-west before the big holiday wave.

All hell breaks loose here: ferries to two islands, supply ships, fishermen, government vessels, freighters and the brown fleet share the sometimes narrow fairway with yachts. We leave the buoy line wherever possible and round the uninhabited island of Richel in the east of Vlieland about two hours after Harlingen. The current around the East Huk makes the arrival exciting - as does the narrow harbour entrance, which demands attention at right angles to the transverse tide. But then we have reached Vlieland.

Also interesting:

• Netherlands: Area update 2026 - What skippers need to know.
• Netherlands: Staande Mastroute 2026 not passable throughout.
• Netherlands: Sea rescue - What German skippers should know.