Greece: Five perfect islands - Kalymnos offers everything a skipper's heart desires

Greece is a top destination for island hopping. Whether it's the Aegean or the Ionian Sea, there's always something appealing to be found. But a few Greek islands are particularly special. Tips for sailing there from area expert Andreas Fritsch. In the first part we introduce Kalymnos.

Greece has been experiencing a boom as a cruising area for some years now, which is quite remarkable. After all, there are reasons why the area does not make it easy for all charter crews or owners: In summer, the Meltemi winds in the Aegean are often strong, sometimes gale force. There are also various drop, jet and cape effects. So, at least in the Aegean, it is something for more experienced sailors. The infrastructure of the harbours is dense, but the level of service compared to the western Mediterranean or Turkey is, let's say, down-to-earth. Mooring is in front of a bow anchor with the stern to the pier, an unusual manoeuvre for many sailors. In addition, there are rarely marineros to help with mooring, and sanitary facilities are just as rare in municipal harbours.

Greek islands: affordable and spectacular

But also: sometimes single-digit mooring fees for yachts even over 40 feet, probably the cheapest prices in the Mediterranean on land and in restaurants, spectacularly beautiful landscapes, ideal for island hopping from island to island. Beautiful old towns, friendly, relaxed people. And the yachts are usually right in the middle of the action, the town centre, with only a few professional marinas further afield. There is also an abundant selection of very good, sheltered anchor bays, which also allow for peaceful nights at anchor close to nature.

With the boom on land, Greece has also become chic in many places: Sophisticated beach bars and shops, the cuisine has increasingly skilfully combined tradition with modernity. Anyone who hasn't been here for more than 5 years will rub their eyes. And yet there is also plenty of culture, sights and beautiful historic island villages where time somehow seems to stand still. Although I have been travelling in the region for over 20 years, there are these islands that I always like to return to. They have something special and, above all, have reliably "picked up" my changing fellow sailors. We briefly present five of them in our series "Five perfect islands". In the first part: Kalymnos.

Click here for the other parts of our "Five perfect islands" series:

• Greece: Five perfect islands - Part 1: Kalymnos
• Greece: Five perfect islands - Part 2: Paxos
• Greece: Five perfect islands - Part 3: Astipalaia
• Greece: Five perfect islands - Part 4: Milos
• Greece: Five perfect islands - Part 5: Syros

Kalymnos - everything a sailor's heart desires

There are islands that simply have it all: a charming main town, spectacular scenery, great bays for swimming, nice tavernas on the beach and then something interesting for a shore excursion. Kalymnos, to the north of Kos, is one such island. Barren, steeply rising mountain ranges characterise it, covering it like large scars, with fertile valleys in between. The western side is so steep that it is a favourite destination for extreme climbers.

Kalymnos is one of the highlights of the Dodecanese and used to be the centre of sponge diving in Greece. Over 300 boats left from here in the 19th century in search of the natural product, which is an animal and not a plant, as many believe. At that time, the Greeks retrieved them in dives from great depths of over 20 or 30 metres, initially simply by holding their breath for a long time, and later with copper helmet suits from depths of up to 70 metres. Many of the men died in diving accidents or became invalids, but the business brought prosperity to the island. Until artificial sponges made the business redundant after the Second World War and later a bacterial infection decimated the stocks. If you want to find out more, visit the small but beautiful sponge diving museum in the main town of Pothia.

Right in the centre or rather secluded

It is a busy, turbulent ferry harbour, even on land, but has good berths for yachts on the central pier. The harbour staff take the lines and use their own bow anchor. The pretty, winding town centre is definitely worth a visit, there are plenty of restaurants on the waterfront and good shops.

Otherwise, the island offers sheltered bays that cut deep into the land, with Vathi in the south-east in particular winding its way spectacularly into the land, as narrow as a river, and at the end a small village in a green valley with just under 10 berths on the pier with a bow anchor. Leave the head free for excursion boats! Anchor carefully, there are sometimes downdraughts!

A nice alternative is the deep bay of Palionisos on the east side. Two tavern landlords have laid out buoys there. Here, too, the rock faces rise up imposingly and it's like being in Abraham's lap. Only anchoring is difficult as the bottom drops away steeply. On the west side, Emporio is the best choice as a destination, where restaurant owners have also laid out buoys and the bottom is rather rocky. The mountains in the background are beautifully illuminated by the sun in the evening. If you want to stop in the south, you can go to the tiny bay of Vlychadia, where no more than three boats can fit. There are cosy restaurants, a few holiday flats and a beach on the shore. There were two buoys out in 2024. A small idyll off the beaten charter track.

How to get there

Charter start from Kos, about 16 SM south-east. Large fleet selection. Stronger Meltemi from N to NE in summer, much calmer in early and late season.

Worthwhile excursions

The sponge/marine museum in Pothia (09.00-14.00) next to the yellow and white church with the silver dome, admission is free! The volunteers sometimes explain in great detail, sometimes sparsely. Just ask! Quirky: The symptahically crazy beach bar/restaurant "Pirates of Kalymnos" a little east of Emporio. Pirate film-inspired, quaint location with a bar in the shape of a ship, boat wreck etc. For the young at heart.

Restaurant tips for Kalymnos

• Pothia: The "Omilos" like Greece 20 years ago! Good and cheap.
• Palionisos: The "Ilias" on the eastern shore. Great view over the bay to the mountains, down-to-earth cuisine, fair prices.