CroatiaAround Krk – bays, the bora and karst landscapes

Bodo Müller

 · 02.09.2026

The 41-foot charter boat from in2theblue beneath the Krk Bridge.
Photo: Bodo Müller
Around 70 nautical miles, tranquil coves, bustling harbour towns and the bora setting the constant rhythm: a circumnavigation of Krk reveals two very different sides to the Adriatic’s largest island. This three-part YACHT feature follows the route from Punat in a clockwise direction, from the sheltered west coast through the wind-swept Vinodolski Channel and back to the marina.

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For many charter crews, Krk is an easy introduction to Kvarner Bay. But if you sail all the way round the island, you won’t just be sailing between bathing bays and promenades. In the north-east, the Velebit Mountains drop steeply down to the Adriatic Sea. There, the bora from the north-east can blow much more strongly than on the west coast. The cruise therefore requires more than just a scenic route: weather windows, alternative harbours and anchorages must be suited to the prevailing wind conditions.

The journey begins and ends in Punat. In between lie around 70 nautical miles, a third of which are in the Vinodolski Channel. The three parts of the report describe the route in geographical order, whilst also providing practical advice for crews wishing to sail around the island of Krk itself.

Part One: The West Coast and the Northern Tip

The stage kicks off with from Punat along the west coast to the northern tip. After taking over the yacht, we head westwards first to the anchorage at Sveti Juraj. It’s quiet there in the early season, but gets much busier in the summer. Further north, the route takes us past the Franciscan monastery at Glavotok to Njivice.

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This location clearly illustrates why information provided by the local harbour authority does not always match the actual condition of a harbour. Planned extensions to the facility were not visible on site in the spring of 2025. There are few options available for visiting crews; assistance at the jetty is helpful when mooring.

Beyond Omišalj, the nature of the cruise changes. The Vinodolski Channel, which is exposed to the wind, begins beneath the Krk Bridge. To starboard lies the barren north-eastern side of the island, characterised by gusty winds. If a moderate bora is forecast in good time, the passage can be challenging and enjoyable. However, if the wind picks up, there are few safe places to take shelter there.

Part Two: Klimno, Vrbnik and Mala Luka

The second stage leads along the north-east coast, including Bora, Klimno and Vrbnik. Klimno is the key sheltered harbour here. The wide, well-lit entrance and the deep bay offer a comparatively safe haven even in strong north-easterly winds. However, there are only a few berths available at the jetty. Those who cannot find a berth anchor in the bay.

Vrbnik lies further south on a rocky outcrop overlooking the canal. The harbour and the old town, with its narrow streets, make the town a charming stopover. However, when the bora is blowing, Vrbnik is not a safe haven. Even moderate winds can drive swells into the harbour basin. For crews, this means: only call at the port in stable weather and consider the likely wind conditions before mooring.

The south coast that follows appears more unspoilt once again. In Mala Luka, yachts can find shelter from a moderate bora, provided the wind does not persist or pick up further. The bay is suitable for anchoring, and the ruins on the slopes serve as a reminder that this now remote place was already inhabited in ancient times.

Part Three: Back to Punat through the heartland of the Bora

The final stretch takes us back to Punat via the Bora’s homeland. After a night in Mala Luka, the route leads through the Senjska Vrata. The strait between Krk and the mainland lies within the influence of the Velebit Mountains. Here, the bora can pick up speed particularly rapidly. For this stage, a reliable, precise weather window is more important than the desire to complete the circuit at all costs.

On the cruise described, the Bora is followed by a lull. The crew motor on across calm waters towards Baška. The harbour was expanded with new jetties during the winter of 2024/25 and now offers a sheltered basin. This provides a much better option than before in changeable conditions.

It is only a few miles from Baška to Punat. To the south of the entrance, there are several popular anchorages set against high cliffs. Anyone anchoring there should observe the local rules and check the actual water depth. The Croatian Ministry of Transport refers users to its free service for information on ports, moorings, weather and nautical advice Nautical Information Service. The applicable Croatian regulations on maritime safety require particular caution near the coast, in narrow channels and when approaching harbours and anchorages.

Sailing around Krk: What crews should sort out beforehand

A trip round Krk is not a high-wind training exercise, but a sailing trip that relies on good preparation. On the west coast, bays, towns and places to stock up on supplies are easily accessible. On the north-eastern side, the wind, waves and shelter options change much more rapidly. Those who respect the bora and wait for a suitable window of opportunity will find a combination of contrasting landscapes, useful harbours and challenging cruising within a compact area.

The three parts of the feature illustrate precisely this transition: from a relaxed start in Punat, through sailing along the ‘dark side’ of the island, to the return journey through one of the most striking wind-swept landscapes in the northern Adriatic.


Book recommendations

Coastal Guide to Croatia and Slovenia brings together information on the coastal waters between Koper and Split, including Kvarner Bay. It includes over 50 recreational boating charts as well as integrated plans of key harbours, marinas and anchorages. The practical benefits for a circumnavigation of Krk are clear: approaches, depths, navigational aids, mooring facilities and provisioning options can all be checked in detail before setting sail and whilst underway.

Gourmet cruises in Croatia takes a different approach. This guide brings together 66 restaurants in Istria, Kvarner and Dalmatia that can be reached by boat, complete with specialities, photographs and harbour maps. It complements the shore excursions on this Krk circuit – for example, in Klimno or Vrbnik – and helps crews combine their route planning with a lovely stop for the evening.


What has been your experience with the Bora in Kvarner Bay: looking for an alternative harbour, waiting for a weather window, or setting sail deliberately when the forecast is moderate?

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Bodo Müller

Bodo Müller

Freier Autor

Seit 1987 arbeitete Bodo Müller, damals noch in Rostock lebend, als DDR-Korrespondent des Magazins YACHT. Nach seiner Ausreise im August 1989 berichtet er als Reporter und Fotograf der Magazine YACHT und BOOTE über alle Charterreviere weltweit. Er schrieb 22 Bücher, darunter den bei Delius Klasing erschienenen Bestseller „Über die Ostsee in die Freiheit“, der von der ARD verfilmt wurde. Daneben ist er Drehbuchautor von zeitgeschichtlichen Filmen und arbeitet als Drohnen- und Unterwasser-Kameramann für den TV-Sender ARTE. Bodo Müller lebt heute auf der Halbinsel Priwall in Travemünde.

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