A circumnavigation of the Adriatic’s largest island takes you to quiet anchorages and through bizarre karst landscapes. Our three-part travel report: Around Krk. Part 3: Back to Punat through the home of the bora.
At midnight, the Bora dies down. In the morning, we motor out of Mala Luka onto the Vinodolski Canal. The water is as smooth as glass. Not a breath of wind stirs our sails. To port lies the town of Senj, nestled beneath the Velebit Mountains. This is where the highest wind speeds in the world are recorded. Off Senj, we turn right into the Senjska Vrata. This strait is considered one of the most dangerous stretches of sea in the world. Here, the Bora can blow at twice the strength of a hurricane. The lunar landscape on either side of the strait gives you an idea of just how fierce conditions can get here. And the lighthouse on the island of Prvić, which marks the entrance to the strait, is protected by walls as thick as a man so that it is not torn apart by the bora.
Calm in the cradle of the Bora
Yet not a breath of wind stirs. With our sails furled, we motor through the cradle of the Bora in a leaden lull. We’re a bit disappointed yet satisfied at the same time. After all, Windfinder and Windguru had predicted exactly this window of time when the Bora would take a break. Without a cold breeze at our backs, we carry on heading westwards to Baška.
The harbour used to have hardly any berths and offered little shelter from the bora. It underwent extensive refurbishment in the winter of 2024/25 and was extended with new jetties, so that it now forms an enclosed basin. As we approach, a young man in a dinghy bearing the words ‘Port Authorities’ comes out to meet us. We only intend to stay for two hours. The harbour master guides us to a berth inside the new breakwater, where we are allowed to moor alongside.
Baška – a safe harbour, ancient anchorages
The new harbour in Baška is a great asset to this popular seaside resort, as it now offers sailors and motorboat owners safe moorings in all weathers. We continue westwards towards our destination, Punat. About two miles south of the entrance to Punat lie seven popular anchorages with natural bathing beaches beneath spectacular cliffs. Even in the first year of the new regulation ‘Rules on Maritime Safety…’, boats and yachts are still anchoring close to the beach as they used to – simply because it wouldn’t be possible further out due to the excessive water depths. And, as is the case every year, the Croatian tourist and party boats are anchored closest to the beach – they are, so to speak, moored right in the middle of the swimming area.
In Punat, our sailing trip around the island of Krk comes full circle. The Bora had shown only its gentler side. We felt safe throughout the entire trip around this wind-swept island. Accurate weather forecasts make sailing safer these days. But that doesn’t mean we’ll ever lose our respect for the Bora.
Tour information
Getting here
Marina Punat is situated in the south of the island of Krk. The drive from Munich to the charter base takes seven hours; from Vienna, you should allow at least six hours. For those travelling from northern Germany, the better option is likely to be a direct Eurowings flight from Hamburg to the island of Krk. Rijeka Airport is situated in the north of the island. It is 31 km from the airport to the marina. Travellers from northern Germany wishing to drive to the Adriatic have the option, from June to September, of travelling in comfort on the ÖBB (Austrian Federal Railways) car train from Hamburg to Villach on the Austrian-Slovenian border. From Villach, it is a 3.5-hour drive to the charter base.
Charter
In2theblue was founded by siblings Linda and Julian Kircher, themselves keen sailors from Carinthia. In addition to yacht charter, the company specialises in sailing instruction, skipper training and regatta training. The charter fleet comprises 37 sailing yachts ranging from 34 to 51 feet, including five catamarans. The bases are Punat and Kremik. The Beneteau 41.1 we chartered (12.43 m x 4.20 m x 2.18 m, 3 double cabins, 2 bathrooms) is easy to handle even with a very small crew, thanks to its furling mainsail and electric winch. Depending on the season, the yacht costs between €1,100 and €2,400 per week. Extras: transit log (€290), bed linen, towels (€10 per person), outboard motor (€80), gennaker (€500), SUP (€130), final clean (€100), Croatian tourist tax (€1.33 per person per night).
Navigation, seamanship, boat licences
The crew should be fully proficient in basic seamanship, such as anchoring manoeuvres or mooring with mooring lines. Anyone wishing to sail around Krk must find out exactly whether a Bora is likely, and when and how strong it is likely to be. This applies in particular to the waters between Krk and the Velebit Mountains – namely the Vinodolski Channel and Senjska Vrata. In the Vinodolski Channel, only Klimno Bay offers safe shelter from the Bora. There is no shelter in Vrbnik; even with a moderate Bora, the boats in the harbour are tossed about, whilst a strong Bora blows over the breakwater. In Mala Luka, to the south of Krk, conditions are quite tolerable during a moderate Bora, although the gusts blow across the bay without generating significant swell. If a strong or prolonged Bora is forecast, it is advisable to leave the bay. Vela Luka offers better shelter, although the water depths are greater, which is why it is more popular with larger yachts.
German skippers require a Sportbootführerschein See (or higher-level certificates) to charter a yacht. Austrians require a certificate of competence for the independent operation of yachts in Navigation Zone 2 – Coastal Navigation (or higher-level certificates). One member of the crew must hold a radio licence (VHF radio certificate/SRC/LRC or a Croatian radio certificate).
Wind & Weather
During the season, the Kvarner region enjoys a mild and sunny climate. The Maestral, a fair-weather wind, blows from the north-west from morning until afternoon and dies down in the evening. The Bora (a cold downwind from the north-east) reaches its greatest strength in the Vinodolski Channel and at Senjska Vrata. It can also occur on the west coast of Krk, though it is significantly weaker there. Strong winds and rough seas can also be caused by the Jugo (from the south-east) or a thunderstorm (from westerly directions). From May to October, daytime temperatures range between 21 and 30 degrees.
Literature & Maps
- Bodo Müller / Jürgen Straßburger: “Coastal Guide to Croatia and Slovenia“, Edition Maritim, 39.90 euros.
- Müller / Scheiter / Straßburger: “Gourmet cruises in Croatia“, Edition Maritim, 34.90 euros.
- Delius Klasing Recreational Boating Chart Set 7: Adriatic 1 ‘Venice – Rijeka – Šibenik – Drvenik V.’“, 64.90 euros.
- The Croatian Tourist Board provides free information on recreational boating. Email: office@visitkroatien.de, Website: www.croatia.hr
See also:
Bodo Müller
Freier Autor