from Martin Muth
Sometimes it can be smart to show a little patience. When we set sail on Sunday, after a slight delay, the sky over the sea had shed its dark grey. Instead of strong gusts from the north, the thermal Embat fans a very pleasant, sailable breeze from the south-west onto the harbour entrance of the small marina of Can Pastilla, where the Club Náutico San Antonio de la Playa is allowed to manage the moorings. The largest are occupied by the First Class Sailing charter fleet. Their Lagoon 42 "Moonlight" is to take the crew to Cabrera, an archipelago and protected national park off the southern tip of Mallorca. Even at low revs, the powerful Yanmar diesels push the twin-hulled boat out into the bay of Palma at a decent speed. After 50 minutes against the wind, the last dinghy fields in front of the marina are passed. Now the main rises to the top, the self-tacking genoa soon joins it, and Cabrera is moored.
Well, almost at least. Because a good drift and surface current make a haul-out necessary even before Cabo Regana is reached, the "wrong" cape at the eastern exit of the Bay of Palma. From Cabo Blanco, which soon follows, the steep coast to leeward is no longer a problem, and it is now less than 15 nautical miles to the harbour bay of Cabrera with its 50 mooring buoys. A reservation on the Internet is obligatory, as is payment.
On two hulls to Cabrera
The old fort to the east of the entrance to the bay is soon clearly visible through the ship's binoculars. With every nautical mile, the northern islands of the Cabrera archipelago are now creeping over the horizon to port: the angular Isla Foradada with its black and white lighthouse on top, the Isla Conejera lined with high, light-coloured cliffs and later the flat Isla Plana. The first destination is reached in the evening. In the lee of Punta de Sa Creveta with its important entrance light, the main falls into the lazy jacks and sail bag. Not far away, a national park ranger waits in a red inflatable boat and checks the reservations of incoming boats. A rarely beautiful crossing has come to an end. After around a dozen visits to the archipelago, we now travelled to Cabrera on two hulls for the first time.
Soon "Moonlight" is moored at the Muringtonne. Time for a little "mooring" on the trampoline in the bow. The last of the day's clouds disperse over Mallorca and the sun is shining brightly here. It's not the best week for sailing, judging by the weather forecasts, which change in rapid succession. But the first day has already been extremely satisfying.
Daylight gradually fades behind the chain of hills to the east of the Cabreras buoy bay, which is called "Puerto" in Spanish and "Es Port" in Catalan or Mallorcan. Because it offers the kind of security that only harbours can. Meanwhile, numerous dinghies from other buoy tenders rattle across the bay, travelling between the main pier and the yachts. Many of them are heavily laden, with little freeboard left, or travelling very fast, clearly exceeding the two-knot "max".
Enjoy the evening on Cabrera
They alone disturb the incredible silence of this secluded place, which is less than 30 nautical miles away from the bustling metropolis of Palma de Mallorca. Even the conversations in the cockpits manage without loud noises, as if there were a collective appointment to enjoy the evening in a very special place. When the anchor lights appear at the blue hour, it is like an hors d'œuvre to the fireworks in the sky that will soon take over the big stage - the firmament! In an almost pitch-black night, thousands upon thousands of stars take over the choreography.
The beautiful Cabrera weather is here to stay. The first night at the pier was a little mixed, it blew into the bay from the north and a few drops fell. But now, in the late morning, the archipelago is back on the sunny side. Into the dinghy and ashore. There, the path leads us purposefully to the door of the national park office at the foot of the main pier, where dinghies can be tied up on the inside. But the door is surprisingly locked. An official from the Guardia Civil explains: The office has moved and now resides on the other side of the "Cantina".
The "Cantina" is a meeting place for sailors, a cult bar with a manageable range of food. But the drinks, especially in the evening, are more important here anyway.
The face of the national park office
Aina Garí Calafell stands in front of the door to the national park office. When she is not spending a week relaxing on Mallorca, the young Spaniard is there for visitors every day from morning to night. She also welcomes groups arriving by excursion boat from Colònia de Sant Jordi, the harbour in the south of Mallorca that is closest to Cabrera.
The new office has now been open for two years, says Aina. It has been significantly enlarged and now offers plenty of space for information boards. They show what you can do on Cabrera on your own and what you can only do in groups, accompanied by rangers. For example, the hike to the lighthouse on Punta Anciola, the south-west tip of the Isla Cabrera, is currently not open to individuals.
How long is uncertain. "Nature should be able to recover. Instead of the permanent path, too many visitors have chosen a shortcut through the landscape," says Aina. If you want to hike to the end of the island, you now have to sign up for an excursion. If the view over the headland is enough for you, there is a viewpoint of the peninsula and the red and white lighthouse behind the first hill.
What is easily possible: the ascent to the castle. Something that almost everyone does because the castle is just above the main pier and can be reached in 15 minutes. There is only one obstacle for the last few metres to the viewing terrace: the narrow, enclosed spiral staircase. No oncoming traffic. Not for people with a tendency to claustrophobia.
Everyone else enjoys the spectacular view of the harbour bay from above. And before and after the encounter with countless wall lizards scurrying along the dusty paths and only nimbly disappearing into the low bushes shortly before our approaching steps.
Fishing in the surroundings of Cabrera
The Refugio de Pescadores between the "Cantina" and the main pier has been around for ages. The "fisherman's hut" is essentially a lounge with a pantry.
Carmeló Martím is a frequent visitor to the area - and has been for 40 years. Like around 60 other fishermen from Palma, Colònia de Sant Jordi and Cala Figuera, he has a fishing licence for Cabrera. Martím came to Mallorca from Grenada with his parents at the age of 15 and soon after started his profession. He was just 18 years old when he and his friends cooked his first catch over an open fire, here in the small rocky bay at the entrance to Es Port.
Today, Martím lives in a hut next to the Refugio in summer and on Mallorca in the winter months. On his boat, he presents a Cabrera langoustine, which he fishes out of a cool box. Does he sell them to restaurants? No, this delicacy is only for friends. Does he also sell fish on the pier on Cabrera? "Muy poco", very little, and rarely.
Fishing only as a supporting role of the achipelago
The catch almost always ends up in the Lonja, Palma's fish market, via Colònia de Sant Jordi by car. Fishing should only play a minor role in the Cabrera archipelago. That was the aim when the archipelago was declared a national park in 1991, Spain's first and still only marine park, and it was the aim again when the protected area was extended towards the deep sea in 2019.
Because where the seabed plunges almost vertically and quickly reaches a depth of 1,000 metres, as a glance at the nautical chart clearly shows, sperm whales dive into the deep black after giant squid, their favourite food. Only this toothed whale, native to the Mediterranean, can penetrate such dimensions. The whale pushes itself to its limits in this search for food and then floats motionless on the surface of the water.
This remains invisible to sailors. However, they can experience the abundance of fish in this extraordinary marine area from the buoy. If you don't want to jump overboard and snorkel in early summer, all you have to do is push a few scraps of bread over the railing: within seconds, dozens and dozens of fish and little fish are feasting on the scraps like there's no tomorrow. The regulated fishing in the national park obviously seems to be very good for the underwater world.
The underwater world off Cabrera
The best way to find out how good it is is to come diving in Cabrera. "There is a lot of fish there: large groupers, tuna, huge schools of sardines and mackerel," enthuses Natascha Korger from Dive Centre Mallorca. "The underwater world off Cabrera is still beautiful. We've been diving there for 25 years and in that time the fish population has remained just as good."
She also enjoys visiting Cabrera with her sailing yacht, together with her partner. Especially in winter. "Then you have the whole archipelago almost to yourself," she says. "Because there always have to be rangers and Guardia Civil officers on the island, the small 'cantina' on the bay is open all year round. Out of season, I feel like I'm in a time machine there, transported back a hundred and fifty years."
Back to the now. After a breakfast of "Barra rustica" white bread from the "Cantina", the quiet time at the mooring buoy draws to a close. By 5 p.m. at the latest, the place has to be cleared for the next mostly sailing visitors to Spain's only national park by the sea.
Wind from the right direction
It's good that the wind is blowing from the right direction again. A south-westerly breeze of up to 15 knots makes full-rigged sailing possible. And a quick trip to the anchorage just north-east of the small harbour of Colònia de Sant Jordi, where small pleasure craft are moored, as well as fishermen and the excursion boats to Cabrera.
South-westerly winds are best here, much better than the open anchorages to the west and east. Another advantage is that it is only a few minutes' walk from here to the visitor centre of the Cabrera National Park.
During the night, the wind turns to the east-south-east and freshens up to almost 20 knots. Perfect for a trip to the bay of Santa Ponsa, 35 nautical miles away. A good place not to have to worry if a north-easterly wind sets in by morning, the offshoot of a mistral that has already been roaming the coasts of Mallorca for a few days.
The mistral is a frequent companion on a sailing trip around Mallorca, and you should always keep a close eye on it. And bring some patience and time with you. Not least for Cabrera, the truly tranquil island of Mallorca.
Information about the Cabrera archipelago
The National Park
In 1991, the Archipiélago de Cabrera was declared a Spanish national park. This was accompanied by restrictions on fishing. In 2019, the national park was significantly expanded to almost ten times its previous size. The national park visitor centre is located in Colònia de Sant Jordi, not far from the small harbour. A visit costs 8 euros, concessions 4 euros. The last entrance to the park is at 5 pm.
Visit on own keel
An overnight stay in the national park is mandatory at one of the 50 mooring buoys (max. boat length 35 metres) in the main bay of Isla Cabrera.
These buoys are subject to a fee and are difficult to obtain in high summer. They are available online up to 20 days in advance on balearsnatura.com bookable, you should book early. In July and August: max. 2 nights. September to June: max. 7 nights. Prices from 1 May to 30 September: up to 12 m (white): 18.60 euros; up to 15 m (yellow): 29.76 euros. At other times of the year, the amounts are halved. If you do not have a reservation, you will be asked to leave the bay during evening checks. Anchoring is not permitted anywhere in the national park. Around Cabrera, some water areas are closed for passage, which is also indicated on nautical charts.
Diving
On balearsnatura.com a diving licence can be purchased for 5.24 euros per person. There are various diving schools in the south and on the east coast of Mallorca that offer group dives.
Supply
Arrive well provisioned, no shopping facilities. Drinks and simple dishes are available in the "Cantina". You can also order fresh bread here for the following day.
Discover
If you would like to find out more about the history and the animals and plants worthy of protection, sign up for one of the guided excursions. The number of participants is limited each time. Opening hours of the national park office in summer: 8 am to 2 pm and 4 pm to 8 pm. The short ascent to Castillo de Cabrera (about 15 minutes) is possible on your own. The best time to visit the Blue Grotto in the north of Isla Cabrera is in the afternoon, when the sun can cast its lower rays. This promises bright colours. You can swim through the cave or take a dinghy into it. The Calla Burri on the east side of Cabrera with 15 mooring buoys promises a fine swimming stop; it is only open during the day.
Contact us
Parque Nacional Archipiélago de Cabrera; Tel. +34 971 177 641, Mobile +34 630 982 363; E-Mail: autoritzacions@ dgmambie.caib.es
History
A visit to the "Es Celler" museum follows in the footsteps of Cabrera. A stylish exhibition of artefacts from the sea tells of lively trade in Roman times, of viticulture and agriculture up to around 100 years ago and of times of war, smugglers, etc. The museum may only be open for a few hours a day or not at all, depending on how busy the national park office is. Admission is free of charge.
Charter
The Lagoon 42 was provided by the company First Class Sailing in Can Pastilla in the marina of the Club Marítimo San Antonio de la Playa. First Class Sailing is a company of Yacht- & Charterzentrum GmbH in Heiligenhafen and has three other bases of its own in the Mediterranean in addition to Mallorca. The base in Can Pastilla is well located, with the airport just ten minutes away by taxi. Shopping facilities are within walking distance, and there are numerous bars and restaurants around the harbour. You could even walk along the seafront to Palma's old town, which is well worth a visit.
