Sailing to the UK: London as a destination – routes, stopovers, entry requirements
Alexander Worms
· 03.04.2023
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Reaching a major city by water is often a very special experience. Take Amsterdam, Hamburg, Copenhagen, Lisbon, Stockholm or, for example, London. This British metropolis of nine million people is vast and, as you’d expect, has a great deal to offer visitors. At first glance, it doesn’t seem all that far from the Netherlands either. It’s a good 120 nautical miles as the crow flies from Cadzand, the south-westernmost port in the neighbouring country, to the famous Tower Bridge. For a medium-sized yacht, that’s just a day’s sailing. But it’s a day’s sailing that’s quite a challenge.
The mouth of the English Channel lies between the Netherlands and the British Isles. It’s a very busy stretch of water. There are plenty of cargo ships, traffic separation schemes, wind farms and anchorage areas. You need to be fully focused. If it all feels a bit too much at once, don’t worry – the route can be broken down into manageable stages. First, the route takes you along the Belgian coast to Dunkirk and from there on to Ramsgate. Then it’s a short hop round the corner to Queenborough and from there straight on to London. With a bit of luck, you might even catch a tide that doesn’t force the crew out of their berths too early. However, for those setting off directly from the north of the Netherlands towards England, a night-time crossing is unavoidable. It’s about 120 nautical miles from IJmuiden to Harwich – a full 24-hour voyage. From there, the route also takes you via Queenborough to the city on the Thames.
Southern route with several stops along the way
Those who choose the southern route will sail out onto the North Sea at Roompot or Vlissingen. You’ll then need to cross the Westerschelde. To avoid the heavy shipping traffic off the Belgian coast, it’s advisable to head towards the port of Zeebrugge. You can stay overnight here. If you’d also like to explore the area a little, you should take the tram to nearby Bruges. The city is beautiful and definitely worth a visit. Alternatively, turn to starboard before the harbour entrance and you’ll reach a channel running along the coast. Blankenberge is the first town you’ll come to there. You can also stop off at this formerly fashionable seaside resort. However, the entrance does tend to silt up, so, particularly between October and May, the skipper should check the condition of the approach in advance on VHF channel 10.
Further along the rather unremarkable coastline lie Ostend and Nieuwpoort. Both harbours are suitable as stop-off points. In Nieuwpoort, however, there is a sandbar 1.50 metres deep at low tide. Furthermore, as you approach the harbour, there can be a current of up to three knots in the narrow passage leading to the marinas.
However, Dunkirk is the ideal starting point for the crossing to Ramsgate. It lies beyond the so-called Zuydcoote Pass, a narrow channel between two sandbanks that is well marked by buoys. From Dunkirk, most crews will want to cross the English Channel in daylight due to the heavy traffic. At the same time, you should make the most of the tide. If you set off from Dover six hours after high tide, travelling at around five knots, you’ll have the current on your side all the way to the other side of the Channel. At the Godwin cardinal buoy, however, the course changes to the north. By then at the latest, you’ll want the current to have turned, as it will help you on your way to Ramsgate.
By the way: a westward-flowing current allows for a slightly closer-to-the-wind course when the wind is from the west, as the current offset compensates for this. However, this creates a wind-against-current situation, which results in slightly rougher seas. You should be prepared for this.
Choosing the right tidal window makes a sailing trip around England easier
After a good 40 nautical miles, you will finally reach the entrance to Ramsgate. Yachts should follow the ‘Recommended Yacht Track’ south of the buoy-marked fairway and report in on VHF channel 14 – and, if necessary, wait south of the entrance whilst cargo ships are entering or leaving. There is a strong cross-current along the channel leading to the harbour. Counteract this accordingly when approaching.
Next, it’s about 38 miles to Queenborough if you sail north of Margate Sand and Pan Sand – something sailors familiar with the area strongly recommend. The sandbanks are constantly shifting, and the deep-water channels used by large vessels are well charted and marked with buoys. A good window for setting off opens about two hours before high tide in Dover. Then the current is favourable for most of the way. And when it turns, it flows only moderately out of the Thames. Once you’ve passed Pan Sand, there are two options for reaching Queenborough. The easier route is via the River Medway; the more difficult one is via the Swale. As it is better to navigate this 14-mile-long, narrow channel with the rising tide, the departure time from Ramsgate shifts: you should not begin the journey into the Swale until at least five hours before high tide at Dover. The Kingsferry Bridge can be opened to a height of 29 metres above mean high tide.
In Queenborough, the yacht moors at the jetty or to a mooring buoy. In this case, the crew can take a water taxi to get ashore. Don’t be surprised: there can sometimes be as many as six boats moored to a single buoy at the same time.
If you’re setting off from the north of the Netherlands, you’ll sail straight across the North Sea from IJmuiden. Harwich is then a good place to stop off – specifically Shotley Marina, which is ideally situated, not least for a visit to the legendary ‘Pin Mill Pub’. From there, it’s 58 miles to Queenborough. The journey usually takes so long that the tide is almost irrelevant; over the course of the roughly twelve-hour trip, its effects cancel each other out.
Driving into London is quite an experience
Next comes the highlight of the trip. The destination is St Katharine Docks. Although there are other marinas in London, you’ll simply want to moor in this gem right in the heart of the city, right next to Tower Bridge. Even if it isn’t cheap: for a ten-metre boat, it costs 93 British pounds per night. Still, there’s nowhere better to moor. But: be sure to book in advance! And do so on the harbour’s website: www.skdocks.co.uk.
The 40 nautical miles from the River Medway to London fly by. To make the most of the tide, set off from Queenborough at low tide. There’s plenty to see along the banks. Above all, however, you’ll pass the Thames Flood Barriers – nine openings fitted with rotary sluice gates designed to protect the city from flooding. Sailors must report via radio on channel 14. Green lights indicate which passage is open. Under no circumstances should you choose a different opening, as the sluice gates may only be partially submerged.
The Prime Meridian awaits you in Greenwich. From there, the numbers on the GPS start to get bigger again, and a ‘W’ appears after them. A little later, you finally reach Tower Bridge.
Just in front of the imposing structure, there are a number of mooring points where yachts can wait for the lock leading to St Katharine Docks to open. The gates open two hours before high water and remain open until one and a half hours after high water. The lock keeper, who is also the harbour master of the docks, can be reached on channel 80. Whilst waiting in front of the lock, don’t forget to take the obligatory photo in front of the bridge!
In the harbour, there’s little sign of London’s hustle and bustle
Once you’re finally in the harbour, you almost feel as though you’re in another world. Old buildings surround the harbour basin, whilst wrought-iron grilles and railings adorn the paths and steps. Here, there’s little sign of the bustling metropolis, the centre of which is just a few minutes’ walk away. After what may have been a tiring journey, that’s not the worst thing. After a short breather, however, the city does start to beckon.
Whether it’s Buckingham Palace, St Paul’s Cathedral, the Tower of London or Hyde Park – virtually everything about London and its countless sights is written about somewhere, whether online or in printed guidebooks. What’s truly incomparable, however, is the feeling of returning to your own boat after a long day criss-crossing the bustling city, enjoying the peace and quiet of the harbour – and making plans for the next day’s sightseeing. Give it a go!
Stop-offs on the cruise to London
Sheltered inland waterways lead as far as the south of the Netherlands. However, once you reach the Westerschelde, you’ll find yourself facing the North Sea – or rather, the mouth of the English Channel. If you don’t wish to cross it straight away, you can make your way there in stages, sheltered by the coast. Zeebrugge, Blankenberge, Nieuwpoort and Dunkirk are ideal places to stop off at.
A trip across the English Channel to London
Although the Channel is at its narrowest between Calais and Dover, the ideal starting point for sailing across to the British Isles is Dunkirk. On the opposite side, Ramsgate is the obvious first stop. The route then takes you via Queenborough into the Thames estuary to London, where there are several marinas to choose from.
Experience Report I: The journey to London is the destination
We’d planned to cover the stretch from Colijnsplaat to Ramsgate in one go: 95 nautical miles! But then, during the crossing, the wind blew more weakly than forecast. So time dragged on, and the leg seemed to stretch out like chewing gum. It was only late at night that Ramsgate harbour came into view. On top of that, there was a strong three-knot crosswind, and after a journey that had already lasted over 20 hours, our eyes were tired. The night also plays tricks on you; the lights on the shore blur, and a 40-degree head-on angle doesn’t exactly help either. On the plus side, there’s bioluminescence, shooting stars and an impressive sky. Still, approaching Ramsgate at night is a tough slog. But we made it, and we quickly took up our berth right at the front of the harbour. A beer at the jetty. A bunk. A good night’s sleep. Continuing on to London after that was almost a mere formality, though of course it was also impressive and fascinating. Our personal highlight, however, was the journey itself.
Experience Report II: Slow and steady wins the race
Dream destinations take time and patience. London is only seemingly just round the corner. Up the Thames, have a cup of tea with the Queen (who was still alive back then), then back down the Thames. The reality, however, paints a different picture. You should allow a week for the trip – starting from Ramsgate! Three days in London alone are a must, given the long journey. The route takes you from Ramsgate to Queenborough, past the Margate Forts, which could have come straight out of a ‘Waterworld’ set. The next morning, full of excitement and anticipation, you set off early. First into the vast Thames estuary and past a container port, then round the first bend. There are plenty of these, and behind every bend in the river you suspect you’ll finally spot your longed-for destination. But it takes a while to get there – a full 43.6 nautical miles.
In places, the route is lined with lovely stretches of greenery and typical English houses; in others, it’s industrial. Eventually, the smell of the city reaches your nose, and high-rise buildings and sprawling residential areas come into view. Thanks not least to the many express ferries and tourist boats, the Thames comes to life.
Then the final bend, and beyond it, Tower Bridge. Truly impressive, it brings a smile to our faces. We fall into each other’s arms, and of course we have to take the obligatory selfie with our own boat in front of the bridge. We’ve made it – we’re in London! One of the mooring buoys in front of the lock leading into St Katharine Docks Marina beckons us to moor. A good moment to take in the hustle and bustle and enjoy the view.
After half an hour, the harbour master calls for the lock to be opened. During the high season, you should book your berth two to three days in advance. The lock is small and fills up with fellow boaters. You can sense the general relief among the people; anticipation is written all over their faces, and there’s even time for a quick chat about the trip down the Thames. Then the bridge goes up, the lock gate comes down, and beyond it a beautiful harbour with crystal-clear water opens up. We stop for our first coffee at one of the nearby restaurants.
Many people spend half a day at the harbour simply because it’s so lovely. But then they head overland to Tower Bridge, with a view of the Thames flowing downstream. It gives you goosebumps!
What you need to know before travelling to the UK
The voyage must be registered. This enables you to cross the border and, in the best-case scenario, avoids the need for quarantine. Nevertheless, the yellow ‘Q’ flag must be flown upon entering the twelve-nautical-mile zone. Furthermore, alcohol and tobacco may not be imported in unlimited quantities (see below). If these limits are exceeded, import duties and taxes will apply.
There are three ways to register for the sailing trip:
- You use a government portal and, once you have logged in, fill in a Pleasure Craft Report (pPCR). www.spcr.homeoffice.gov.uk
- You can still fill in form C-1331 the old-fashioned way; it is now called the sPCR Fallback Template (Click here for the form). Send the completed form by email. Ideally, you will then quickly receive authorisation to enter the country, which will also mean you do not have to go into quarantine.
- It is possible to print out Form 1331 and send it by post to Yacht Reports, Freight Clearance Centre, Lord Warden Square, Western Docks, Dover, Kent, CT17 9DN. Shortly before arrival, you must then call the National Yacht Line on +44 300 123 2012 to notify them of your arrival. In the first two cases, this step is no longer required.
To complete the documents, details of the vessel, the crew and the exact itinerary are required. It is therefore advisable to submit the details as early as possible, but only once you have a clear picture of the cruise itinerary.
What are you allowed to bring into the UK?
You are permitted to bring in 200 cigarettes, 4 litres of spirits or 9 litres of sparkling wine, plus 42 litres of beer and 18 litres of wine. There is a limit of 2 kilograms on the import of pork, unless it is packaged and comes from the EU. In that case, a larger quantity may be imported. However, other goods not belonging to the ship and exceeding a value of 270 British pounds are subject to duty.
Mobile phones, cameras and laptops are what are known as ‘personal effects’. They can be declared verbally upon entry if asked.
It is virtually impossible to bring pets onto the yacht, as this is not an ‘approved route’. This means a four-week quarantine period is required. It is easier if a crew member travels with the pet on a ferry via an approved route. The animal must be microchipped and vaccinated against rabies, and must have a pet passport or a health certificate.
How to respond appropriately if you come across refugee boats
Unfortunately, to this day, many people are still attempting to enter the United Kingdom illegally. This usually takes place between Calais and Dover via rubber dinghies. The Royal Yachting Association summarises what sailors should do if they encounter such a refugee boat as follows:
- Do not come alongside.
- Make a note of your position and the time in your logbook and contact the authorities (Channel 16).
- If someone is in danger of drowning, use a life raft, a rubber dinghy or life jackets to prevent this from happening.
- Observe and assess the situation, count the number of people and note their gender, and record this in the logbook.
- Provide people with water and food if necessary.
- As soon as anyone tries to board your boat, leave the scene immediately or, at the very least, keep a safe distance. If you have people on board and call at a British port, you may be accused of people smuggling if there is any doubt.
This is a very unpleasant subject, but it must be taken seriously. Encounters between yachts and refugees are quite common, so it is good for crews to be prepared. Help, yes; put yourself in danger, no.
This is also in line with the current interpretation of the SOLAS Convention: yacht crews are not required to intervene directly. It is sufficient for them to inform the authorities and remain nearby at a safe distance.