Anchor Special: Better Anchoring, Episode 3: Securely retrieving the ground anchor – 9 manoeuvres

In this special:

• Better Anchoring, Episode 1: Chain or rope – how long?
• Better Anchoring, Episode 2: 6 Tips for the Ideal Anchorage
• Better Anchoring, Episode 3: Securely retrieving the ground anchor – 9 manoeuvres

Anchoring can be a wonderful experience – provided the anchor holds. In previous articles, we have discussed in detail how to choose the right anchoring gear and the ideal anchorage. Now let’s turn our attention to the manoeuvres themselves. As with most seamanship techniques, anchoring is mainly a matter of practice. This is particularly true for inexperienced anchorage users or charterers who are unfamiliar with the characteristics of their anchor. It is advisable to practise anchoring in moderate conditions before it becomes unavoidable due to a crowded harbour or the weather.

Thorough preparation is essential when anchoring. You should check your anchoring equipment – comprising the line, chain lead and anchor – whilst still in your port of departure, not just once you reach the anchorage. It is particularly important to check the connections and ensure that spare parts such as shackles or safety lines are available. An anchor ball and a check of the depth shown by the depth sounder – whether measured from beneath the keel or from the water’s surface – are also essential. When anchoring, you should be as well prepared as you would be for a long cruise: with a full water tank, fully charged batteries, the latest weather forecast and, even if you do not plan to stay overnight, a working anchor light.

General information on anchoring

Limit the dance circle

If a bay is already very full, there’s really only one sensible rule to follow: head for another one! However, circumstances such as an emergency on board or an approaching storm may leave you with no choice but to find another spot. As a general rule, another yacht’s swing circle is off-limits. Modern boats in particular tend to swing considerably whilst at anchor; they literally sail back and forth. However, there are methods for reducing the swing radius, as well as a few other tips and tricks to ensure that as many crews as possible can enjoy the benefits of a sheltered bay. However, there is one very important rule that everyone should bear in mind: the fuller the bay, the more important it is to maintain a constant anchor watch and be ready to manoeuvre.

The following section demonstrates how to carry out the standard anchoring manoeuvre and explains specialised methods, such as using two anchors or mooring lines. The so-called ‘double-anchoring’ technique, in which two anchors are deployed on the same chain to increase holding power, has been omitted. For one thing, it is quite difficult to lower both anchors evenly. If this is not achieved, it is doubtful whether, when the first anchor breaks free, the second – which is not firmly seated in the seabed – will dig in further. Far more significant, however, is the difficulty in handling the anchors when hauling them in. Should this need to be done in an emergency, it means having to handle two anchors on the foredeck. The rear anchor must first be released from the chain before the second anchor can be hauled in. By contrast, deploying a second anchor is simpler.

One more tip: there’s no shame in leaving the entire rigging behind in an emergency so you can leave the anchorage quickly; otherwise, in rare cases, it can simply take too long to properly weigh anchor – or, in the case of double anchors, to weigh both of them. To do this, tie a fender to the end of the rope or chain – in the case of a chain, use a line that is longer than the water depth. Then let the mooring lines drift away, together with the fender. Once the situation has calmed down, you can return to the anchorage, and the anchor line can be retrieved by catching it via the fender floating on the surface.

Electronic aids

Echo sounder

The depth gauge can be used to monitor the yacht’s drift. However, this only works if the seabed rises or falls in the direction of drift. To do this, set the minimum possible and maximum desired depths as alarm zones. If the yacht moves into shallower or deeper water, the alarm will sound. You can manage without any electronics at all using a hand-held lead line and a bucket. At the anchorage, the sounding line is lowered to the seabed with plenty of slack, and the line is lashed to the bucket standing on deck. If the anchor starts to drift, the sounding line will drag the bucket noisily across the deck.

GPS

The yacht’s position can also be monitored via a chart plotter or using a mobile phone or tablet with the relevant apps. To do this, a position is set, along with a tolerance radius. If the yacht moves outside the circle defined by the radius, an alarm is triggered. If the anchor’s position is selected as the reference point – that is, at the start of the manoeuvre – the alarm circle will subsequently cover the entire swing circle. If, on the other hand, the yacht’s position after the manoeuvre is selected, along with a correspondingly smaller radius, the software will trigger the alarm even during strong drifting, as well as during significant wind shifts.

The standard manoeuvre

For your first attempts, you shouldn’t choose the smallest and busiest bay. This is not only to avoid collisions – but also so that you can practise in peace. After all, comments from other skippers can quickly make you feel unsure.

A sandy seabed is ideal, as is a water depth of two to three metres. If the water is clear as well, conditions are perfect. This is because, after manoeuvring, the anchor’s position in the seabed can be checked visually. Basic safety equipment is sufficient for this. If the anchor lies loosely or is only slightly embedded in the seabed, not enough reverse thrust was applied. Alternatively, too little chain was let out, resulting in the angle of pull being too steep. The same applies if a long drag mark has been left on the seabed. This may indicate poor anchorage or a chain that is too short. This inspection of the anchor should also be carried out the following morning after a night at anchor. It is often evident that the chain has left a fan-shaped trail on the seabed, caused by the anchor swinging. If this fan-shaped trail reaches the anchor even in moderate conditions, too little chain has been let out. If, on the other hand, a few metres of chain lie on the seabed in a near-straight line from the anchor, this is a reassuring sign. The same applies, of course, if the anchor is still in the same position and is as firmly embedded as it was the previous day.

This is how’Here's how to do it:

1. Explore the anchorage

Circle the intended anchorage at least once. The radius should be as large as the mooring line to be deployed. This allows you to identify any shoals or uneven areas, as well as the nature of the seabed, and ensures that the skipper will still have sufficient water under the keel even if the wind shifts.

2. Drop anchor

At the desired anchorage, the helmsman turns the yacht into the wind. At his signal, when the forward speed is almost zero, the bowman carefully lets out the anchor until it reaches the seabed. Except in harbours or in very deep water, the position of the anchor should be marked with a buoy. The wind pressure will now push the yacht to leeward; if there is little wind, the helmsman applies reverse thrust. The bowman lets out the anchor at the same rate as the yacht is moving, so that the anchor line is laid out straight and neither the anchor is pulled in too early nor the chain or hawser becomes tangled.

3. The right length

How much chain or rope? It is important to add the freeboard at the bow to the water depth; the two together give the depth. If you are only anchoring for a short period, such as a lunch break, and the crew remains on board, it may be sufficient to use three times the depth as anchor line. For safe mooring over longer periods, the rule of thumb is often to use seven times the depth (including freeboard) as the length of the anchor line. However, depending on the anchor line – whether chain or rope – as well as the water depth and the yacht’s windage, the lengths actually required can vary considerably. In detail, this was in this article explained.

4. Bury the anchor

Once sufficient chain or hawser has been let out, the anchoring process begins. To do this, apply a little reverse thrust at first, so that the anchor has a chance to turn into the correct position and to avoid putting too much strain on the rigging. Allow the anchor a few minutes to dig in properly. The helmsman can tell whether the anchor has caught by taking a bearing on land; in clear water, a bearing on the seabed can be used. Another good method is to place a hand on the chain or rope. If it jerks, the anchor is scraping across the seabed. If the boat is to remain moored overnight or in rough weather, increase the tension on the anchor line slightly, depending on the engine power. If the anchor breaks free too early, the anchor line must be lengthened or a second anchor deployed. Incidentally, it is not advisable to reverse into the anchor line with a running start.

5. Deploy the second anchor

To increase the holding power of the mooring lines or to restrict the yacht’s range of movement, it may be advisable to deploy a second anchor. It should be of sufficient size for the vessel and, ideally, have a chain lead-out and a mooring line. The angle between the anchors depends on the desired effect. The closer they are to each other, the greater the holding power when the wind direction is constant – but the larger the swing radius. The other extreme is ‘spreading the anchors’: both anchors are positioned as far apart as possible, at 180 degrees; the yacht can no longer swing, but only turn on the spot, though only one anchor is holding at any one time.

Vermuren

1. Deploy the stern anchor

Suitable for anchoring in tidal waters or where wind directions vary. First, an anchor is deployed from the stern on a very long line, against the wind and/or the current

2. Deploy the bow anchor

Then drop the second anchor over the bow. You can also start with step 2; the order makes no difference. If the second anchor is deployed from the dinghy, the line for the first one does not need to be as long

3. Connect

The yacht will turn round on itself if both anchors are dropped at the bow. It will, however, remain stationary if one anchor is dropped at the bow and the other at the stern. In that case, however, wind or swell may strike the yacht from the side, causing it to lie very unsteadily.

Anchor-V across the wind, even single-handed

1. Deploy the stern anchor

An elegant manoeuvre requiring minimal effort, which can also be carried out single-handed. The yacht is steered across the wind, and the first anchor is dropped astern on the windward side. It can also be dropped at the bow, but this carries the risk of the anchor line coming into contact with the propeller

2. Bury the stern anchor; drop the bow anchor

Once enough rope has been let out, it is secured, and the first anchor is driven into the seabed a little. Some yachts can now be balanced by applying forward thrust and adjusting the rudder angle so that they remain at an angle to the wind. This requires a bit of trial and error, including adjusting the rudder angle. Once this has been achieved, the helmsman can calmly lower the second anchor at the bow.

3. Secure the ropes

The second line is now let out to the same length as the first, then secured. If the first line has been secured at the stern, first secure its loose end at the bow, then release it at the stern so that the yacht turns with its stern to leeward

Sailing into the wind under engine power

1. Normally anchored

The yacht is correctly moored. If the wind picks up or the turning circle needs to be reduced, the second anchor can be deployed using the engine.

2. Positioning

Heave towards the first anchor in the direction of its pull, then turn off and continue steering diagonally to windward until the first anchor is directly abeam. Anchor buoys are essential for checking this. The rigging should be under little or no tension, otherwise the first anchor could break free

3. Deploy the second anchor

The second anchor is dropped; the wind drives the yacht to leeward. As much rope is let out as was used for the first anchor

4. Burying

If both mooring lines are in use, slowly lower the anchors using reverse thrust

Anker-V with the dinghy

1. Normally anchored

The starting situation is the same as when deploying the anchors by machine. With this method, however, other vessels at anchor are less disturbed by the engine noise, and there is also less risk of the first anchor breaking free. The disadvantage is that the lateral distance between the anchors can only be estimated

2. Load and deploy the second anchor

The anchor harness is in the dinghy. The end of the mooring line is attached to a safety line, which is hauled in from on board. This way, the dinghy does not have to row against the mooring line, which, depending on its weight, may even be impossible. That is why this method does not work with a chain either

3. Reel in the line

The second anchor has been dropped and marked; the anchor line is being hauled in on board using the guide line. If the dinghy driver holds on to the anchor line, they do not need to row or motor back

4. Cut the ropes to length

Haul in the ropes until they are both the same length, so that the yacht is positioned midway between the marker buoys. Drop both anchors again

Cast the shore lines

1. Deploy the bow anchor

A method for steeply sloping seabeds, as is often the case in Turkey. The anchor is dropped to a depth that is just compatible with the length of the anchor line. The anchor often holds very well, as it is hauled ‘uphill’ at a favourable angle. However, if the yacht turns – as is always the case with an offshore wind – into the deeper water, the anchor will quickly come loose

2. Cast the shore lines

To prevent this, shore lines are deployed to stop the boat from turning and swaying, and to keep the anchor gear taut. The shore lines can be deployed either from the yacht using a dinghy or whilst afloat. However, it is easier to first take the dinghy ashore, secure the line there and then return to the yacht with it in the dinghy.

Mooring at the skerries

Deploy the stern anchor

Many skerries drop so steeply into the water that you can moor alongside them and go ashore without getting your feet wet. To do this, you first drop a stern anchor. Keep jamming the line every now and then whilst deploying it to check whether the anchor has caught. There’s only one of two possibilities here – it’s either secure or loose. That’s why it may take several attempts

Drop the stern anchor towards the coast

1. Deploy the bow anchor

Sometimes a long, shallow beach drops off abruptly into deeper water – not an ideal anchorage. However, if you still want to stay there, even if it’s just for a swim, you’ll need a stern anchor rather than a mooring line. The bow anchor is dropped in the deeper water and holds very well, as it pulls ‘uphill’

2. Deploy the stern anchor

The stern anchor can be deployed from the yacht or, if the water becomes too shallow, from the dinghy, and prevents the yacht from drifting into deeper water. If the second anchor is dropped too far into shallow water, it sometimes has to be dug out by hand

Casting the anchor with one hand

1. Drop the anchor over the stern

An elegant manoeuvre that isn’t just for single-handed sailors. The anchor should not be lowered with the full chain, as there is a risk of scratching the hull. The chain leader should be stowed in a bucket at the stern. The end of the anchor line is secured at the bow (see below) and routed outboard towards the stern. The helmsman drops the anchor at the stern and pays out the lead-in line and anchor line

2. Bury the anchor

If the anchor line is long enough, secure the lines to the stern and wait until the wind pressure has driven the anchor into the seabed. You can assist with the engine and, as the propeller creates a flow of water over the rudder blade, you’ll have very good control over the yacht

3. Turning the yacht

The line at the stern is released; the stern swings round, and the yacht is now positioned with its bow into the wind

And now, have fun practising!

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