GRP repairClosing small and large holes in the hull

Hauke Schmidt

 · 07.12.2023

GRP repair: closing small and large holes in the hullPhoto: YACHT/H. Schmidt
The stock is sanded for the new laminate
Whether ramming, an old through-hull or the stern tube that is no longer needed - even large holes in the GRP can be easily sealed. This makes the structure as strong as before

Hardly any owner likes sawing or drilling holes in their boat. Not only because they represent potential leaks, but also because the question arises: What happens to the cut-out if the component, such as a defective log transducer or a display instrument that is no longer needed, is to be removed again?

Small holes are no problem

The procedure for sealing a hole depends on the size of the opening and its position in the fuselage. For a small screw hole in the deck or cockpit, it is usually sufficient to fill the hole with thickened epoxy resin. To do this, the hole is cleaned out with a slightly larger drill and the opening is widened into a cone shape with a countersink. The resin thickened with high-density filler is then injected into the hole with a syringe and the repair is allowed to harden.

Larger openings - more effort

It is much more complicated with larger openings such as through-holes in the underwater hull. If the repair fails under water, even the buoyancy of the boat and therefore the lives of the crew are at risk. The thickness of the surrounding laminate also plays a role. The larger the opening in relation to the material thickness, the greater the stress on the repair area and the work must be carried out accordingly.

To demonstrate the necessary steps, we used an old, 7.25 metre long small cruiser. The previous owner had removed the installation machine. However, the stern tube had only been provisionally sealed with a wooden wedge and a stub shaft - not a reliable solution. As the screw connections of the stern tube in the hull could no longer be loosened, only the saw could help. A hole about one metre long and 20 centimetres wide then had to be sealed. In addition, a superfluous through-hull passage had to be removed.

Self-builders should allow time

The repairs do not require any special materials or tools. Apart from a powerful sander with suction and an angle grinder, no special equipment is required.

To ensure that the repair can also be carried out by amateur boat builders, we did not use vacuum technology. With the appropriate equipment, the quality and strength of the laminate could be improved enormously. Compared to the hull material of the small cruiser laminated with chopped strand mat and two layers of fabric, our hand laminate made of glass fibre and epoxy resin should already have a significantly higher strength. Working overhead is also quite easy with the pre-impregnated glass fabrics. Once well pressed down, the adhesion of the resin was sufficient to hold the layers securely to the fuselage.

However, sufficient time should be allowed for this. Due to the curing intervals, the filler work in particular takes a long time. Our two boat builders were busy for about three days.


The work step by step

The preparation

After removing the machine, the stern tube was not removed, but only provisionally sealed with a piece of wood. A potential leak
Photo: YACHT/H. Schmidt

Laminating

A template is made from foil to cut the glass scrims to size. Mark the outer contour and the shape of the hole to determine the largest and smallest layer of scrims
Photo: YACHT/H. Schmidt

Smoothing and sealing

After curing, the peel ply is removed. The levelling of the laminate can then begin. Firstly, mark the raised areas that protrude beyond the hull strake. A large palette knife or a batten is suitable for this purpose
Photo: YACHT/H. Schmidt

Laminating the door opening

The screw connections on old through-hulls are usually seized up, so simply grind off the protruding part with an angle grinder. Slipping off is not a problem, the hole has to be ground open further anyway
Photo: YACHT/H. Schmidt

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