Revier-Reportage: Sailing on the Chiemsee - Lake cruising in the south
Monday morning, off-season on the Bavarian Sea, Lake Chiemsee. The third largest lake in Germany after Lake Constance and Müritz. Fellow sailor Thomas, owner of a J/97, has just completed two months on the Baltic Sea. And ours Finland cruise for the YACHT. In other words, the "sea" that we now want to sail has a hard time being accepted as such. And yet the numbers speak for themselves: there are said to be 5,000 sailing boats spread over 64 kilometres of shoreline on Lake Chiemsee. In addition, there are a huge number of SUPs and electric hire boats.
The oldest boat, the top dog in the area, so to speak, is the paddle steamer "Ludwig Fressler", which has been in service since 1926 and tirelessly transports guests to the two highlights of the lake: the Fraueninsel and the Herreninsel with the eternally unfinished castle of fairytale King Ludwig.
And the scenery is also magnificent. Especially when you look south and west from the north bank in Gstadt. If you turn your head to the left, towards the east, you could almost imagine yourself in Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania. "Forget this part," says Mr Heistracher junior from boat hire company ChiemseeYacht. "I wouldn't go there. It's not worth it. You'll have to sail back for ages in a westerly wind."
Three nautical miles can become an eternity
Eternal? How can that be? Fellow sailor Thomas and I look at each other in disbelief. Lake Chiemsee is not Cape Horn. How can three lousy nautical miles be an eternity? Even if the engine can only be switched on when there is a thunderstorm warning or an hour before sunset. And not when hungry.
Despite well-intentioned advice, disbelief remains, no matter how adverse the conditions on the lake may be. Only later do we realise what might be meant. Specifically: how much the Chiemsee can expand in a calm and with it time and space!
When there is a lack of wind again, sailors have to be patient. Starting the engine is not allowed. This is only permitted in the harbour or during storms"
But the first stroke simply goes somewhere. Out of the box. With the keel raised, into deep and supposedly drinkable water. To keep it that way, there is no toilet on board the Jeanneau 319 named "Symphonie". There is even a sign in the washbasin: "No use!" The purity law applies on all Bavarian lakes, so to speak. You will also look in vain for cooking facilities below deck. At least you are allowed to stay overnight on a charter yacht - but not at anchor.
We leave the jetty in Gstadt under engine power and set course for the passage between Fraueninsel and Krautinsel. After about 50 metres, the diesel is switched off and the sails go up. No matter what the wind is doing. It's still practising. At the moment there is nothing more than a gentle breeze. According to the charter company, the best winds are south of the islands. That's where the regattas are held. But be careful, they said, always sail in the centre between the islands and keep clear of the ferries and passenger ships!
Sailing on Lake Chiemsee: without a licence, without experience
"Yes, yes," we think to ourselves, "don't worry, we are native and well-travelled Elbe sailors. There must be a lot more and bigger boats on the way than one or two passenger ships, which you have to avoid unless it's completely calm." The detailed briefing quickly makes it clear that chartering on Lake Chiemsee is apparently allowed without a pleasure craft licence and without much experience. In other words: supervised sailing seems to be the order of the day here.
To the south of the islands there is actually a breeze. You can see it. To the north, on the other hand, we stand with the boat for a while. It doesn't matter as long as the sun is shining. It does. Like a perfect old wives' day in summer. The colour of the water and the temperature are perfect for a swim. And one of the best, almost exotic things for us: the panorama! Fishing enthusiasts like us rarely sail surrounded by a picture-book mountain backdrop like the Chiemgau Alps. Surrounded by a horizon that climbs to 1,961 metres at the Sonntagshorn.
It is a stone's throw or a stone's throw from Gstadt to Fraueninsel. The passenger boat takes less than five minutes. We need just under half an hour. Just as well that nobody is in a hurry. Or urgently needs to go to the loo. As I said, there is no toilet on board.
Whether the lake is large or small depends entirely on the wind strength. If there is a strong breeze, it is quickly sailed through. If not, the short trip turns into a long haul"
What there are, however, are plenty of nice places to stop for a bite to eat with regional specialities on the menu. For example, fresh whitefish, better known as vendace in the north and probably imported by monks in the past. But to get anywhere, you need wind or patience. If you lack both, be sure to take emergency rations on board. Simply starting the engine is forbidden. It's a bit absurd when the islanders, ferries and passenger boats next to you are crossing to Fraueninsel at will. Why don't we actually have an electric drive? Then you could navigate with impunity and without any problems using hunger and menus.
Discovering slowness and sustainability
Then finally wind! Hunger has to wait. The breeze needs to be utilised. We sail along the wooded southern flank of Herreninsel. The number of sailing boats increases towards the afternoon. The DHH runs a sailing school in Prien. Suddenly there are several J/80s on the water. Much faster than us, which is not only due to the boats. Apparently they have better wind in the western part of the lake, while we are soon caught in the next lull. It's jinxed, but not too bad. In the middle of a three-dimensional picture book that could be called "Heidi ahoy". There is something about it. Something meditative. The discovery of slowness. And sustainability, when the engine can only be used for mooring and unmooring.
The only slightly annoying thing is the monotonous sound of the motorway, which becomes more audible the closer you get to the southern part of the lake. Before it gets too annoying, it's time to turn round! And wait for the wind again. Keep an eye out for ripples and then lure them towards the boat with magical incantations. Or are there paddles on board somewhere? My stomach is starting to growl. "The oasis in front of your nose", as fellow sailor Thomas aptly puts it, looking forward to a crusty roast that you can almost smell in the calm.
The portions in Bavaria are rich and meaty. And extremely tasty."
In the afternoon, we moor alongside at the guest jetty on Fraueninsel. We buy a four-euro parking ticket from the machine and, as requested, stick it behind a window in the saloon from the inside. For a Monday, the smallest independent municipality in Bavaria is surprisingly busy. After a tour past Mr Porsche's house and Mr Lidl's, we stop off at the "Linde". There is always a place to sit - with a sumptuously laid table. In Bavaria, the portions are quite generous and meaty. And extremely tasty.
Towards evening, a strong easterly wind suddenly starts blowing. A perfect approach course towards Gollenshausen. The tip came from the waitress who brought the apple strudel. There you would be sitting in the front row and have a beautiful sundowner view of the mountains. So off we went. With sword down to the "Seehäusl". We make rapid progress. Superb sailing along the edge of the reeds. As if on rails. And not a wave anywhere. Meanwhile, the Chiemgau Alps remain astern.
One shot and then from the outside to the floating dock. Perfect. A cosy spot, no doubt about it. You'd love to spend the night here. Unfortunately, there is neither a harbour master nor any facilities. And the "Seehäusl" is also closing down. What a shame, really. So we inevitably sail back to the home harbour in Gstadt as darkness falls. And we are surprised to realise that even a daily distance of four or five nautical miles feels like a real trip.
The lake shrinks with the breeze
The next day we set course for Herreninsel. Best weather, measured by hours of sunshine. There could be more wind. Better: much more. Stand-up paddlers overtake us left and right. What the hell! This is what the Rossbreiten must feel like - only minus the mountain panorama and the monastery in front of the bow. Every little breeze is celebrated. The gentle gurgling at the stern. And then silence again. Elegant, almost poetic sailing. Ideal for burnout and high blood pressure. Simply not wanting anything and just being on the lake and in harmony. There is a different kind of power in the calm. My co-sailor - who usually likes to go a bit faster with his J/97 - finds it "extremely meditative".
The lake shrinks as the breeze sets in. Suddenly you are quickly where you originally wanted to go and would have needed hours to get there. For example in Prien, the tourist centre on Lake Chiemsee. We ask the harbour master if we can moor alongside for a few hours. No problem. If we want to stay overnight, please let them know before 6 pm and pay 20 euros. And, no, there is no public jetty at the "Fischer am See" restaurant. But we could otherwise moor at the yacht hotel, a sophisticated hotel complex with a resort character.
An old monastery on one, a castle steeped in history on the other: both islands are well worth a detour. Especially in the low season, when there are fewer tourists"
What a pity. A sail-in fish restaurant would make sense. We'll just have to stretch our legs a bit. Through the tourist epicentre. Most tourists are shipped from Prien am Chiemsee to Fraueninsel and Herreninsel. The shipping company has created a special railway line to connect the station with the jetty. Right next to it is the bus car park. Fortunately, at the beginning of September you only get a taste of what must be going on here in high summer.
Flashing lights warn of thunderstorms on Lake Chiemsee
In the afternoon, we want to set off again to take advantage of the rising breeze. Instead of a fishbone, the waiter's advice at the "Fischer am See" restaurant sticks in our throats: "No can do, look!" He points to the flashing of one of twelve optical storm warning lights dotted around the shores of the lake ( see below ). 40 lightning flashes per minute herald 6 to 7 Beaufort. In his opinion, you shouldn't set sail then. Could that be the case? What should we do? The storm still seems a long way off. With the flashing on the lake, you can also use the engine. An elderly couple on the neighbouring jetty explains: "At 40 flashes a minute, it's okay to leave." Only at a nervous 90 lightning flashes a minute, when wind forces of over 8 Beaufort are expected, do all water sports enthusiasts have to leave the lake in a hurry. In the mountains, the weather can change at lightning speed.
We decide to head forwards. At last there's a breeze we can sail in. And then from a clear direction. This makes the passage to Gstadt a nice, fast ride. Faster than the thunderstorm can move in. As soon as we tie up, it starts to patter so much that we think we're going to be shoegazing on deck. The next day literally falls through. But not so bad. The Herreninsel can only be reached by passenger boat anyway.
In high summer, it gets crowded on the water, especially on the islands in Lake Chiemsee. It's better to go sailing in the early or late season"
We have booked a private tour of the island, which combines nature and culture in exemplary fashion. Konrad Hollerieth, our guide, says that he has never seen so few guests that even he takes a photo of the unfinished Herrenchiemsee Castle of the fairytale king Ludwig II. The man only spent ten days here at the time. Isolated, nocturnal, depressive and whimsical to his death - in Lake Starnberg. The circumstances are still unclear today. We leave the splendidly ostentatious palace, modelled on Versailles, with the thought: "It takes little to be happy - and only those who are happy are kings."
All we need is a sailing boat and a moderate breeze. On the somewhat different or Bavarian Sea - while it still works, we should emphasise. Originally, Lake Chiemsee was three times as big, as our guide tells us. In around 8,000 years, water sports will have come to an end. The sediment input via the Ache is too great for that. There's no need to hurry. Nevertheless, having sailed on Lake Chiemsee once is well worth it.
Area information Chiemsee
Charter
We were travelling on a Jeanneau 319 from ChiemseeYacht. The boat costs 340 euros per day, 5 days (from Mon-Fri) cost 950 euros, and the whole week is 1,400 euros. You must bring your own bed linen. The boat is spartan or not equipped at all. There is no toilet on board. To book call: Tel. 08054/90 66 90, WWW.CHIEMSEEYACHT.DE
Wind & Weather
Changeable. As is usual in the mountains. Thunderstorms can come up quickly, lulls can be persistent. A local sailor summarises it like this: "You either have too much or too little wind on Lake Chiemsee." Lake Chiemsee is large enough for local winds to develop. The sun provides a thermal breeze around midday when the weather is favourable. The most common wind directions are west and north-west, which originate from low-pressure areas that move eastwards across Bavaria. Thunderstorms often come from this direction. South winds only occur when there is a foehn wind. The best and most reliable wind blows from the east. It is rare, but then very constant, and you can rely on the weather remaining stable. In westerly or easterly winds, the channel, the passage north-west past the islands, is very popular, as a jet forms there.
Storm warning
An optical wind warning system is installed around the lake, as described in the text. As soon as lightning starts to flash, the motor may be used. At 90 flashes per minute, you must leave the lake immediately.
Harbours
Overnight stays are only possible in a few harbours with sanitary facilities. It is preferable to return to the base in the evening. Further information: WWW.CHIEMSEE-SEGELN.DE
Trailering
Sailing boats without a motor, living, cooking or sanitary facilities and under 9.20 metres in length do not require any notification, registration or approval from the district office. It is more complicated for boats with an auxiliary motor. You can apply for a holiday licence from the Traunstein District Office: WWW.TRAUNSTEIN.COM/CITIZENADMINISTRATION/SHIPPING
Tips for sailing on Lake Chiemsee
You can easily reach Fraueninsel with your own boat. The "Zur Linde" inn is a great place to stop for refreshments. However, it is best to arrive in the evening when the day tourists have left. The Herreninsel cannot be approached on its own keel. You can only get there by passenger boat. The castle and monastery are well worth a visit. You can moor your own boat at the "Yachthotel" near Prien. The complex has a resort character. The "Seehäusl" in Gollenshausen is much less pretentious. If you like fish, you should go to the restaurant "Zum Fischer am See". Unfortunately, it doesn't have its own landing stage, but it is within easy walking distance.
