The petite boy stands for a few minutes on the 20 metre high rock of Le Torpilleur, which rises almost vertically from the sea and whose silhouette is reminiscent of a small warship. The youngster takes one step forwards, then another backwards. He wears trainers because of the sharp edges of the rocks. Tension and nervousness are transmitted to everyone who cannot escape the spectacle. While our crew struggles to find the words, the boy is cheered on by his fellow competitors and the passengers of a passing excursion boat. Finally, he gathers all his courage and leaps forwards, feet first, into the depths.
For a moment, it is dead quiet. Then the cliff diver breaks through the surface of the water with a loud bang and a fountain. When he resurfaces safe and sound, the cheers and relief are immense. At the top, the next daredevil teenager is already standing with shaking knees ready for his test of courage.
"Crazy, I would never jump down there," says fellow sailor Matthias, "but luckily they wouldn't think of throwing themselves down from that spot back there!" His gaze wanders to the even higher rock faces that frame the Calanque de Sugiton, at the entrance to which Le Torpilleur juts out of the water. Mont Puget, around 565 metres high, is the highest point in the national park. It lies between Marseille and the fjord-like bays, where there are marvellous anchorages for sailors.
Marseille as a starting point for a summer cruise
Marseille's location is not the only reason why it is a good starting point for a trip to the rocky bays of the national park. Although France's second largest city enjoys a dubious reputation, sailors and tourists are unaware of the problems in the northern part of the city. The European Capital of Culture 2013 shows its most beautiful side around the huge historic Vieux Port. In addition to countless cafés, bars and restaurants in all price ranges, there are also many small markets. They offer a wide variety of handicraft products, from artfully crafted knives to traditional Tuareg jewellery. And in case the shower gel has fallen victim to airport security: The famous Marseille soap is available on every corner here.
The fishing harbour Vallon des Auffes, about a 30-minute walk southwest of the Vieux Port, is home to some of the best restaurants in the city. We went to "L'avant Cours" on the recommendation of Abdel, the charter base manager, where the chef personally explains the small but excellent menu. To enjoy gratinated mussels or a bouillabaisse in the house style, it is essential to book a table in advance.
Those who prefer a more relaxed pace can stroll through the student quarter, Quartier Cours Julien. Its centre is a car-free square with fountains, cypress trees, a children's playground and a few bistros. Reggae music and colourful street art add to the alternative flair.
South course
The next day, as we sail out through the busy harbour entrance, we pass Fort Saint-Jean and the "Mucem" on the northern shore. This is a modern museum dedicated to the cultures of the Mediterranean. To the south, the view falls on the monument in honour of the heroes and victims of the sea. Heading south, the tiny fortress island of Île d'If is left to starboard, where the novel character Edmond Dantès, better known as "The Count of Monte Cristo", was imprisoned.
After the obligatory sail check, we immediately retrieve the cloths. Instead, the engine propels our Dufour 360 GL across a mirror-smooth sea. The narrow passage of Des Croisettes, which runs between the Île Maïre and the mainland, forms the gateway to the Calanques National Park, so to speak. The anchor drops for the first time in the Calanque de Sugiton in the immediate vicinity of the young cliff jumpers. Finally switch off the engine and take a refreshing dip.
At the end of May, the water is still pleasantly cool. With diving goggles and snorkels, we first check the anchor and then marvel at the school of sea bream directly under the "Fann d'Artist", our charter boat. On deck, we prepare an Aperol Spritz and French cheese specialities to get us in the mood, which prove to be particularly tasty in this impressive setting.
The dinghy then takes you ashore to explore the rocky landscape. Sturdy shoes, good balance and a basic level of fitness are very useful. Sometimes it's steep up and down, and it's easy to lose your balance on the loose stones. The reward for a strenuous climb is the panoramic view over the anchored boats in the turquoise, sparkling waters of the bay. A unique ecosystem has formed here. Because there is virtually no soil, the plants anchor themselves in the cracks and crevices of the limestone. They obtain most of the moisture they need to grow from the evaporated seawater and the salty spray of the surf. This is why the Calanques are home to plants such as the Sabline de Provence, which only thrive here, as well as some rare animal species such as pearl lizards and Bonelli's eagles.
More luck in Cassis
The next day we head for the Calanque de Port-Miou. It is the only bay in the National Park with mooring buoys and a jetty. However, we don't get a place so spontaneously, instead we are advised to register by radio or telephone next time. So we continue on to Cassis, whose harbour entrance is marked by a large lighthouse. We have more luck here and the marineros guide us to the last free berth.
Around the small harbour with its traditional fishing boats, there are gastronomic offerings with a preference for fish. If you don't fancy that, the pizzeria opposite the Capitainerie is a good choice. Cassis is particularly famous for its dry, fruity white wines. The tiny growing area of just 210 hectares benefits from the maritime climate and is also well protected from the Mistral. Several winegrowers offer wine tastings, which can be booked spontaneously. A beautiful beach and a small park, where the locals play boules, border directly on the harbour.
Snorkelling in the national park
The easternmost point of the national park is the small island of Île Verte, which is located at Cap de L'Aigle just a few hundred metres from La Ciotat. It is the only wooded island in the barren rocky landscape. At midday, we drop anchor in Seynerolles Bay in the south-east of the island for another swim and a spot of snorkelling. Due to its strategic location, Île Verte was repeatedly turned into a fortress, first by the French, then by the English and finally by the Germans. Today, there is hardly any evidence of the war on land. Instead, the fish-rich underwater world attracts snorkellers and scuba divers.
As the wind is finally forecast for the next day, we head for the Îles des Embiez in the evening. Although they are no longer part of the national park, they are the perfect jumping-off point for a longer beat back to the Calanques in an easterly wind. The islands are worth a visit, and not just for the pleasure of sailing. While the mooring line is pulled up from the bottom of the harbour basin of Port Embiez and then used to cover the front cleat, a French-language live version of Sting's "Englishman in New York" echoes through the harbour. Unfortunately, it's a private party, but the good mood is still infectious. During the morning tour of the island, the lush vegetation with lots of cacti and colourful flowers catches the eye, while an Atlantic-like atmosphere prevails over the offshore rocky islands in the northwest as the wind picks up. Time to set off and sail!
Back to the Calanque de Port-Miou
With the imposing Grand Rouveau lighthouse in the stern, the "Fann d'Artist" sails the 15 nautical miles to the Calanque de Port-Miou in a rush before the wind. This time we made a reservation and got a mooring in the long and well-protected finger bay. The jetty facilities are rustic and there is no shore power. On the other hand, the boat is moored in complete tranquillity amidst the owner's boats. As an exception, it is advisable to moor here with the bow in front, as it quickly becomes shallow. The showers are surprisingly modern, and next to a washing machine there is not only a small book corner, but also an ice cube machine.
The last bite of ratatouille has just been eaten when the ageing boat of the Marineros appears in the twilight. A broadly grinning man stands at the bow, holding up his smartphone. With everything the loudspeaker has to offer, we hear "Money" by Pink Floyd. Just before he starts playing the air guitar, the boat sails slightly against the abandoned neighbouring boat so that the joker almost goes overboard. The two marineros are doubled over with laughter, as are we. "I've never been so humorously ripped off," says fellow sailor Hajø happily.
Limestone was quarried and shipped here from ancient times to modern times. Among other things, the quays of Alexandria in ancient Egypt were built with this robust stone. Especially in the rear part of this calanque, an almost reverent calm prevails today, which is also due to the low charter volume. There are hiking trails on both sides of the inlet that offer beautiful views of this unique harbour. Cassis can also be reached on foot via the stone plateau to the south, where you can sunbathe while enjoying the best views over the Bay of Cassis. The path there is dedicated to Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, the author of "The Little Prince", who died in an aeroplane crash off the coast of the national park in 1944.
Stop on the way back to Marseille
On the way back towards Marseille, we visit the Calanque d'En-vau early in the morning, which is considered to be the most beautiful, but is also specially protected due to a ban on anchoring. Instead, we make a stop at the next inlet, the Calanque de l'Oule. As the spectacular rock faces fall as steeply into the water as they rise, you can navigate so close to the rock that you can literally touch it. Divers can be dropped off from a motorboat to explore the underwater canyons with their rich fauna.
And then a light wind comes up again in the Bay of Marseille, so we set course for the Frioul Islands in a butterfly position. While the crew enjoy the relaxed champagne sailing, foiling sports cats with international licence plates whiz past us - a foretaste of the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris, whose sailing competitions will be held off Marseille.
Because the large harbour of Frioul is not a feast for the eyes and serves as a transshipment point for the many day tourists who come on the ferries from the mainland, it is decided by mutual agreement to head for the Calanque de Morgiret in the north of the island. We spend the last night at anchor there. The decision turns out to be a real stroke of luck: despite being so close to the big city, we find ourselves in a small, well-protected natural paradise.
As there is neither wind nor current, we have to take into account a corresponding swaying circle. "Lay as little chain as possible, otherwise you'll have to spend the night with one eye open," a Frenchman from the neighbouring yacht calls out to us. So, with a water depth of eight metres, only 20 metres of anchor chain rattle down. Shortly afterwards, a thunderstorm cell with thunder and heavy rain passes right over us, but the boats are calm and the anchor holds, as we have been assured. At a late hour, the full moon shifts over Frioul and bathes the bay in an eerily beautiful light.
"La vie est belle"
Before we set off the next day for the short hop to Marseille, a crew member rows to the beach to shop in the nearby island shop for the last breakfast on board. The prices are steep, like the wafer-thin slices of salami that end up on the plates along with Roquefort and Provence tomatoes. But it's worth it. Sailing and eating like God in France, or, as the French say: "La vie est belle!"
Interesting facts about the national park
The precinct
The national park is an area of short strokes. Ideal for pleasure cruises in a unique landscape where sailing can be combined with swimming and snorkelling, as well as climbing and hiking. Pack your hiking boots!
Navigation & Seamanship
Easy coastal navigation with few shallows, as the coast drops steeply into the water almost everywhere. In the narrow and partly shallow passage of Des Croisettes, it is advisable to sail under engine power, as a lot of traffic, strong currents and freshening winds due to the jet effect are to be expected. If in doubt, sail around the outside of Île Maïre. Anchoring overnight is best only with a current weather forecast and careful choice of place - mistral and downdraughts can be treacherous. Radio harbours in advance via channel 9 or call to make a reservation.
Wind & Weather
Usually light winds in midsummer, often a sea breeze from the south-east in the afternoon. The dreaded mistral from the northwest occurs more frequently in spring and autumn. Reef immediately at the first sign, as the pressure rises quickly.
Rules in the national park
Due to the risk of forest fires, a forecast for the next day is published every evening from 1 June to 30 September. In the event of a "red alert", it is strictly forbidden to go ashore. Forecasts can be accessed in real time via the "My Calanques" app. In some calanques, there are no-anchoring, no-fishing and no-motorised zones marked with yellow buoys. The use of drones is prohibited in the national park. The faeces tank must remain closed. Compliance with the rules is monitored by rangers. Further information on nature conservation can be found in the area guides and in French at WWW.CALANQUES-PARCNATIONAL.FR
Literature & Charts
The French harbour and area guide "Bloc Marine Méditerranée" with information also in English is on board, as are paper nautical charts. A good English-language cruising guide is the "Imray Mediterranean France & Corsica Pilot" by Rod and Lucinda Heikell.
Charter
We were travelling with a Dufour 360 GL from Dream Yacht Charter. The fleet operator has bases in the Vieux Port of Marseille and in Port Pin Rolland in Saint-Mandrier-sur-Mer near Toulon. Depending on the season, the boat costs from 994 euros to 4,320 euros per week (plus final cleaning, bed linen, towels, dinghy, outboard motor). Booking via SamBoat: KONTAKT@SAMBOAT.DE, TEL. 0611/97869110, WWW.SAMBOAT.DE
