1. bow anchor instead of mooring ring
Crews who are familiar with Mediterranean harbours with mooring lines, as is usually the case in Spain, Italy or Croatia, need to rethink their approach. Many of the Greek moorings are simple communal harbours where you lie with your stern to the pier, but the bow is held by your own anchor, which is dropped in the harbour and must also be in place. This is unfamiliar to many newcomers to the area and requires the smoothest possible manoeuvre due to a lack of space, especially in crosswinds. This includes laying as much chain as possible and carefully hauling in the iron as much as possible. The easiest way to do this is as follows: Anchor manoeuvre, hand over the stern lines. Let the boat slip forward a few metres with the stern lines. Then pull the anchor tight using the winch until the chain is taut. Then pull the stern to the pier with the motor. If you have to pull too hard, slacken the chain. If the chain slips in spite of the adjustment, repeat the manoeuvre. The next morning, you may well end up with an "anchor salad", as it is colloquially known: you or other crews have inadvertently placed the anchor over your neighbour's harness. When catching up, the neighbouring chain and your own anchor sometimes get tangled up. To release: Keep calm at first, the boat will usually hardly move if it is still attached to another boat's chain. Pull up the other boat's chain far enough so that you can pull a rope through it and tie it up. Then take the weight off your own chain, which will then come free. Clear the anchor and quickly drop the other boat's chain so that the neighbour's anchor does not break free.
2. service differences
Greek marinas have roughly the same level of service as other Mediterranean marinas. It's different in the municipal harbours. You usually wait in vain for marineros to help you, and unfortunately the harbours often have no sanitary facilities. But the Greeks have adapted to this: There are usually signs on private houses, restaurants or hotels near the moorings indicating that showers are available there for a fee. These are often very well maintained and usually cost two to four euros. Otherwise, crews use the toilets in cafés and restaurants, which are often located directly in front of the moorings and where you will find yourself sitting down for a beer or morning coffee anyway. Alternatively, use the holding tanks of the charter yachts, which can be emptied later on the high seas.
3. tanker
As small, remote harbours in particular do not always have electricity and water connections, in some places there is still a supply via tankers, especially on islands with a water shortage, such as in the Cyclades or the Dodecanese. They bring water or diesel to the boat. The service providers either come by the harbours in the morning and evening, or information signs are displayed.
4. price advantages
Greece is the cheapest sailing area in Europe. A 40-foot yacht often only costs a few euros in mooring fees. If electricity and water are available (often via a consumption card), which is now often the case, it can cost around 15 to 20 euros. No comparison to many harbours in Croatia or on the Balearic Islands, where 60 to 80 euros are quickly due. A cashier usually comes around in the evening or in the morning, there is rarely a harbour office. Greek marinas are more expensive, around the same level as in Croatia. Restaurants are significantly cheaper, often 30 or 40 per cent below Croatian standards.
5. paperwork
Strictly speaking, there is a regulation in Greece that requires every skipper to appoint a co-skipper. The co-skipper needs either a sailing licence of some kind or proof of experience which proves that he would be able to get the boat safely into a harbour without a skipper. The second licence used to be required more frequently. However, this has become rare in recent years. Important for owners: anyone sailing to Greece for the first time needs an eTEPAI, a permit to sail in Greek waters, when entering the country. It is graded according to boat size and length of stay, for a 10 to 12 metre boat it is 33 euros/month ( aade.gr ).
6. meltemi
The very stable summer wind, which builds up from June, reaches its greatest strength in July and August and slowly decreases in September and October, should not be underestimated. Inexperienced crews should avoid the Aegean during the Meltemi peak phase. In summer, it blows at an average of 4 to 6 Beaufort, but it can also last a few days at 7 to 8 Beaufort. It blows in a semi-arc through the Aegean, coming from the north-east to north-west depending on the area. It picks up slowly in the morning and reaches its greatest strength in the afternoon and early evening. Rule of thumb: If you have to cross back to base against the Meltemi, plan two thirds of the charter time for the return journey. The Ionian Sea lies outside the Meltemi, so it is much calmer there.
7. flotillas
Especially in the Ionian Sea, group cruises with five, six or even ten boats are particularly popular with the British and Dutch. Less pleasing is the fact that once they arrive in a beautiful harbour or bay, they quickly fill it completely. So if you see such a group of boats approaching a bay like a string of pearls, you might want to think twice about sailing on.
8. downdrafts & Co
Particularly in the Aegean Sea, but also between some islands in the Ionian Sea, the prevailing winds are considerably strengthened regionally by downdrafts, capping or jet effects. Famous wind jets include the channel between Kefalonia and Ithaca in the Ionian Sea and the one between Paros and Naxos in the Aegean. In the Meltemi, a 5 can quickly become a 7 to 8 or more on average. Therefore, keep an eye on the topography of the islands and pay attention to the relevant information in charts and sailing area manuals - and reef before jetting!
9. navigation & seamanship
Navigation is easy in many areas of Greece, as the seabed drops away steeply. Anyone sailing in the Aegean or Ionian Sea should not be surprised if the depth sounder fails to find any depth soon after setting sail. The buoyage and sea markings are correspondingly sparse. However, the few shallows are not always well marked. Anyone approaching the coast, for example when approaching a harbour or anchorage, must pay attention to the charts.
10. catering
Greek cuisine is better than its reputation, especially in the Aegean on the islands of the Cyclades and in parts of the Dodecanese. The choice is huge. What newcomers to the region should not expect, however, are huge mixed meat platters in the style of German "Socrates plates". If you find a mixed grill platter on the menu, you have almost certainly ended up in a touristy place. You can also wait a long time for a free ouzo afterwards, which is unusual in Greece. Instead, there is a small free dessert: some fruit, yoghurt with honey or cake. Tip: combine several starters with different main courses and share them. This is how many Greeks eat. Greek pastries are very good, such as the mighty bougatsa, a puff pastry vanilla dream. Savoury variations include spanakopita, usually filled with feta cheese or spinach. They are ideal for a lunchtime snack on the go. Tip for the evening: stifado, a stew with beef, lamb or goat meat, onions and tomato sauce, often with cinnamon and cloves. In the Aegean, grilled calamari stuffed with feta and paprika - a speciality. Greek wines are not famous, but there are exceptions: Assyirtiko from the island of Santorini is excellent, but relatively expensive. If you come across wine from the small, fine Lipsi Winery, you should try it. Register for a wine tasting at www.sigalas-wine.com or www.lipsiwinery.com.
11. weather & maps
Very good weather data is provided by the national weather service at www.poseidon.hcmr.gr or via the Android app. There is no Apple version. The best nautical charts for the area are available from the Greek pleasure craft chart publisher Eagle Ray. They are very up-to-date and contain an enormous amount of detail, harbour plans and additional information. Obtain via www.hansenautic.de.
