Here we present a selection of articles from 100-year-old issues of *YACHT*. In issue 26/1926, sailing journalist Käthe Bruns and fashion illustrator Hilde Kutzner write about women’s clothing on board.
No, we really have no intention of competing with proper fashion magazines, but after all, sportswear does fall within the scope of interest of a sports magazine, at least to a small extent. That is why articles on clothing for sailors and motorboat enthusiasts have appeared here and there in *YACHT* in the past, and even the latest addition to sailing literature – the excellent work by our contributor Dr Walter Deter, *Mein Segelbuch* – devotes a short chapter to the subject of clothing.
However, all these publications deal almost exclusively with the sailor – the man, the gentleman. Leafing through all these articles, one realises that there is little in the way of enjoyment or variety to be found in the field of sailing and motorboating sportswear, insofar as it concerns only the male members of the sailing community. After all, a pair of white or blue men’s trousers is not exactly a particularly interesting subject of study that would be worth devoting a great deal of ink to. In this respect, the ladies, with all their finery, offer quite different possibilities. It is therefore almost surprising that women’s clothing on board has not yet been discussed in any detail anywhere.
Perhaps this is because, according to good old seafaring tradition – and therefore also in the view of the older generation of sailors – ‘long-haired devils’ have no place on board, because their presence not only spoils the best weather and conjures up calms or heavy seas, but also significantly disrupts harmony amongst the men. But with her long hair, the woman of today seems to have shed the dangerous traits for which she was once criticised. A glance at the waters bustling with Sunday boaters reveals that on almost every boat and yacht, a white or coloured lady’s dress glimmers. Even at the tiller – once the male owner’s jealously guarded sanctuary – one can now often see a small, tanned woman’s hand, and the occasional blonde or brown bob stands out, smiling sweetly, against the dark mahogany of the yachts sailing past.
There is therefore no denying that women have become a significant force in sailing. Just as women have, in the practical affairs of daily life, become much more like men’s companions – indeed, even professional colleagues – than was the case in earlier years, they have also carved out a place for themselves in sport, even in sailing, which is regarded as the most masculine of all sports. It is therefore entirely appropriate that, just as issues relating to men’s sportswear are addressed, so too should those concerning the weaker – yet admittedly more beautiful – sex. For this reason, a letter containing a few sketches, sent to us by two seasoned female sailors, is published here in YACHT – for the benefit of all those female sailors who handle the tiller and sheets with a steady hand. As for the other group of female passengers, however, for whom a chic sailing outfit is more important than a properly set mainsail, we advise them, despite this foray by YACHT into the world of women and their clothing, to stick to ‘Elegante Welt’ or ‘Die Dame’ instead, as these ‘female sailors’ will not find what they’re looking for in YACHT, because it contains too much technical jargon or other nonsense.
But now, following this introductory overview, let us turn to the letter, which is postmarked Kallundborg, Zealand, and whose author is surely known to all our readers, at least by name:
Dear YACHT! What happens when there are two women on a sailing yacht – a fashion illustrator and a journalist by profession – and there’s no one there to flirt with? (Sailors don’t do that anyway! The editors.) – and when things are a bit slow and it’s pouring with rain, so that, having taken care of one’s physical needs, one has comfortably tucked away some food and drink – and when one has plenty of time on one’s hands and is bored? Well, what happens then?
You just fall back into the old habit: the journalist starts writing, and the fashion illustrator, with her skilful hand, brings one graceful little doll after another to life on her sketchpad. And then the thoughts keep flowing. What has just been created must be put to good use. Already, the first issue of a new magazine is complete in the mind’s eye, one that fulfils a deeply felt need: ‘The Chic Sailor – A magazine for sophisticated women’s fashion on board.’
We have not yet found a publisher, however. We do, however, have the honour of enclosing a sample copy for *YACHT*, a publication we hold in the highest regard, in the certainty that its lovely readers and our dear fellow sailors will be grateful for all manner of useful tips for their forthcoming sea voyage.
It’s not a question of them having to go out and buy a whole load of new things, but – as we’re keen to win over the gentlemen as well – simply to work out: what is absolutely essential at sea? What can be used from what you already have, what can be adapted, and what needs to be bought or borrowed from a seafaring friend for what may be only a short voyage?
A long, waterproof coat made of oil-impregnated fabric remains essential; a lighter version of this is available under the name ‘Ägerin’. Anyone who takes part in other sports, such as driving a car or riding a motorbike, may also have a coat made of glossy black rubberised fabric with wind protection in the sleeves, double-breasted at the front, and with armholes wide enough to allow you to wear several layers underneath. It is therefore best to choose a larger size for the coat. This should be accompanied by a sou’wester with neck protection. Those that fasten under the chin, so that water does not run down the neck, are particularly recommended. If it is not in stock, you can have one made to measure. Once the sailing season is over, the oilskins must not be packed away in a cupboard or a suitcase, but must be hung freely and airily on hangers; otherwise, by spring they will be sticky and brittle.
In addition to the oilskin coat, a thick, long, warm coat, which should also be fastened high up. Any old winter or autumn coat will do here.
A warm, woollen dress – not a knitted one, as that lets the wind through – will serve you well in spring and autumn. Worn over this is a knitted jumper, of the sort now produced in all shapes and sizes for sportswear. Colourful waistcoats complete any outfit and are useful when you can wear old, short blouses underneath them.
For warm days, light-coloured washable garments, indanthren-dyed but not pleated, as pleats must not get wet. A dress made of fine white washable crepe that doesn’t crease is very pretty and also practical on shore. You must bear in mind that you’ll often have to store your wardrobe in very limited space on board, without forgoing a lady’s right to always be dressed gracefully and smartly. It is therefore advisable to choose garments that can be worn not only on board but also when going ashore, such as the pretty knitted coats that are so popular this summer, and the ever-useful windbreaker. Pyjamas, a swimsuit, a bathrobe and warm knickers round off the essentials.
A word more on the all-important footwear. Ultra-fine silk stockings are no good on cold mornings and evenings; woollen socks, on the other hand, serve you well. Shoes with rubber soles are an essential new purchase – two pairs per person, so that you don’t have to slip into shoes that are still wet from yesterday’s stormy journey. Instead of simple lace-up shoes, there are now very reasonably priced dainty pumps and strappy shoes with low rubber heels.
We’d rather not try to lay down rules on the style and number of head coverings, because every woman knows best what suits her and what fits her. Let’s just say this much: if the bob weren’t already so popular, it would have to be invented especially for female sailors. Short and sleek, it’s almost the only way to always look smart, and what’s more, you won’t be embarrassed if you ever get a proper telling-off. And now we wish all female sailors a safe journey on their upcoming voyage.
Käthe Bruns and Hilde Kutzner.
Would you like to have a browse through old issues of YACHT? You can find all issues from 1904 to 1981 in the digital yachting archive.