News: Denmark's most beautiful fjords

YACHT correspondent Jürgen Helm visited the Isefjord, Roskildefjord, Odensefjord and Mariagerfjord. He brought along stories about the country and its people, historical anecdotes and, of course, plenty of useful information for sailors.

The first part of the three-part district series is available in the new YACHT (on newsstands from Wednesday). Additional sailing tips for all those who want to sail to Denmark on their own keel can also be found here:

Denmark's most beautiful fjords
In YACHT issues 15, 16 and 17, our correspondent Jürgen Helm presents the most beautiful harbours and anchorages in the Ise and Roskilde Fjords, the Odense Fjord and the Mariager Fjord. In addition to the articles in the magazine, helpful additional information is provided below for anyone who would like to discover these areas on their own keel.

Literature tips and nautical charts for Denmark's fjords

• Brochure from Roskilde Tourist Office: "Isefjord and Roskilde Fjord Harbour Guide" with an overview map, harbour descriptions and information on places of interest.
• From Fyn Tour: "On a foray through the Danish South Sea", by Heide Preben.
• From Delius Klasing Verlag: chart no. 53 from set 5 "Southern Kattegat" (also on CD-ROM); chart no. 36 from set 3 "Round Funen" (also on CD-ROM); "Törnführer Dänemark 2" by Jan Werner
• From NV-Verlag: Sportschifffartskarten Series 3, "Waters around Samsø, Sund and Kattegat", chart sheet S 34
• From Edition Maritim: "Anchorages in Denmark" by Gerti and Harm Claußen and "Harbour Guide Denmark 3"
• From the Vikingeskibshallen in Roskilde: "With the Vikings as a pilot on the Danish coast", by Max Vinner

Harbours, anchorages, sights

• Rørvig, Hundested and Lynæs are the first harbours that can be called at. While Hundested is an active fishing harbour with plenty of atmosphere and good fish restaurants (harbour dues for boats up to ten metres: 90 dkr.), Lynæs offers all the amenities of a modern marina (80 dkr.).
• Kulhuse (50 dkr.) on the northern tip of the Hornsherred peninsula is often overcrowded and is located in a scenic summer cottage and camping area. A longer hiking tour leads to Nordskoven north of Jægerspris Slot. Nordskov (North Forest) is home to oaks that are over 1000 years old.
• Frederiksværk is a newer marina just outside the town (60 dkr.). At the overflow channel for the Arresø, not only a cosy town ensemble was created, but also Denmark's armaments centre, where cannons were cast from 1781 and powder was produced in "Hærens Krudtværk" until 1965. The former cannon foundry - Gjethuset - dating from 1769 is now a cultural centre, and the open-air museum "Krudtværksmuseet" is located to the north of the town.
• Frederikssund Marina (70 dkr.) is located to the east of the Kronprins-Frederik Bridge. A Viking village has been reconstructed right next to the harbour. In summer, the Viking plays are performed in the open-air theatre with up to 250 actors. Major renovation work is being carried out in the harbour during the summer this year.
• Jyllinge Nord (50 dkr.) and Jyllinge Yachthafen (80 dkr.) are approached via a separate fairway, the depth of which is indicated as 1.50 metres on the nautical charts. However, local sailors point out that boats with a draught of up to 2.40 metres have had no difficulty in reaching the more attractive Jyllinge marina, which is located further south. The cosy fishing harbour with its red tool sheds and idyllic fishermen's houses is only a few minutes away.
• Skuldelev (50 dkr.) is located in the narrowest part of the fjord on its western side. It is a small, simple harbour in the middle of beautiful nature, which can be used by ships with a maximum draught of 1.80 metres. In Skuldelev by is the "Dukkemuseet" with over 200 dolls, the oldest from 1860. Immediately south of Skuldelev is Peberrenden, where the five Viking boats exhibited in Roskilde were found.
• The former fishing harbour Bryggevig (free of charge) only has a water depth of 1.40 to 1.50 m in the harbour basin, but outside the harbour it is possible to anchor in about two metres of water. From here, as well as from the magnificent anchorage in Møllekrogen, it is a short walk to the Selsø Slot from 1576, which is open to visitors.
• Gershøj with its small harbour (50 dkr.) is a typical example of a former fishing village. It is quiet and tranquil here and apart from the "kongelig priviligerede kro", which is - was - famous for its eel dishes, there are no attractions.
• Lejre Vig, where a few piles have been driven in at a depth of 1.80 metres, is quiet but beautiful. From here it is only a few nautical miles to the cosy Herslev marina (70 dkr.), which is away from any traffic but has all the necessary service facilities. Bicycles are available here free of charge, which can be used to visit the Lejre archaeological research centre eight kilometres away, where a Stone Age village with many activities has been set up.
• On the way to Roskilde is the relatively new harbour of Veddelev (60 dkr.) with all service facilities.
• Roskilde (80 dkr.) is a modern marina in a highly interesting environment with a museum island, the Viking Museum and a lively town within walking distance of the harbour. Roskilde Cathedral, probably the most magnificent in Denmark, has been the burial place of most Danish kings for several hundred years.
• A popular anchorage is Kattinge Vig, where an almost tropical atmosphere prevails in fine summer weather, with the extraordinary Ringøen in the centre, which - like all the other islands - may only be entered after 15 July.

Navigation

Charter

• The nearest charter base is Scancharter with the harbour of departure in Ebeltoft (Øer Maritime Ferieby) in Jutland. Telephone 0045-86 34 00 10, fax 0045-86 34 51 10, www.scancharter.dk.

Harbours, anchorages, sights

• Enebærodde is a safe anchorage in northerly and westerly winds. There are also two anchor buoys marked DS here, but these may only be used by members of a Danish sailing club. The bridge is reserved for the excursion boat "Svanen".
• Just before Otterup Havn, at the end of the buoyed Egense Dyb between red buoys 14 and 16, there is a quiet anchorage at a depth of two to 3.70 metres. From here, as well as from Otterup Havn (harbour fee 70 dkr.), excursions can be made to the Hofmansgave estate (approx. 2 km), to the Hals peninsula or to Glavendrupstein (14 km), the rune stone with Denmark's longest inscription of 210 characters, built 1000 years ago. Bicycles can be hired in the harbour.
• Bregnør fishing harbour (50 dkr.) is located at the end of a 200-metre-long bridge. It is seven kilometres to Kerteminde. It is a child-friendly harbour with a bathing beach. A new service centre has just been opened this week.
• Klintebjerg Havn can only be recommended for short-term mooring. Ships with a draught of more than 1 metre can moor at the bridgehead at a water depth of just under two metres. Before the canal was built, Klintebjerg was a cargo handling harbour for the North Funen area.
• Stige Havn (60 dkr.) is the home port of the Odense Sejlklub, which organises the popular Fyn Rundt regatta (jointly with the Kerteminde Sejlklub for the past two years). From here, a small ferry crosses the canal to Stige, from where there are regular bus connections to Odense, a good six kilometres away.
• In Odense, you can call at either the marina in the western turning basin (85 dkr.) or basin 2 of the industrial harbour (70 dkr., up to 10 m). Neither harbour is particularly pleasant, but the latter is only a ten-minute walk from Odense town centre. Odense is Denmark's third largest city and offers everything from shopping to restaurants and museums in its cosy city centre. Brandt's Clothing Factory, a former weaving mill and uniform tailor, is now Odense's cultural centre with museums, exhibitions, cafés and music restaurants.

Navigation

Charter

• JIM Søferie, phone 0045-64 41 41 82, e-mail: jim@ferie.dk , www.jim-soeferie.dk with port of departure Kerteminde;
• Scancharter, telephone 0045-86 34 0010, www.scancharter.dk with port of departure Nyborg.

Tourist information

• Odense Turist Bureau, Radhuset, DK-5000 Odense C, telephone 0045-66 12 75 20, e-mail: otb@odenseturist.dk , www.odenseturist.dk ;
• Otterup Turistbureau, Bredgade 10b, DK-5450 Otterup, phone 0045-64 82 32 00, e-mail: otterup@post8.tele.dk , www.nordfyn.dk/otterup-turist

Harbours, anchorages, sights

• Als Odde, right at the entrance to Mariager Fjord, is a small pilot and shoe jetty, where you can also moor for a short time.
• Hadsund Fiskerihavn (harbour dues 50 dkr.) only offers relatively unprotected berths, the toilet facilities are very basic, but it is only a few metres to the centre of Hadsund with all the amenities.
• Lystbådehavn Hadsund (75 dkr.) on the west side of the bridge is cosier and quieter, with well-kept sanitary facilities and a mast crane and slipway.
• The child-friendly harbour in Kongsdal on the southern shore of the fjord has been lovingly prepared by the local sailors, including excellent sanitary facilities. A slipway is available for trailer boats and there is also a mast crane. Assens, with Scandinavia's only salt factory, is only 1 kilometre away. Bicycles can be hired from the harbour master. The base material for Denmark's first cement factory was quarried in the nearby former lime quarry. Today, numerous species of orchids grow here, which are protected.
• Only ships with a maximum draught of 1.80 m should call at the simple, naturally beautiful harbour of Vive (60 kr.) on the north side of the fjord, which can moor on the outside of the bulwark in calm weather. The actual harbour basin, which also has a ramp, is only about 1 m deep.
• The former commercial harbour Mariager (75 dkr.) has now been completely adapted to the needs of leisure sailors. The historic town centre is only a few minutes away. The interesting salt centre is right by the harbour, as is a railway museum, from where veteran trains regularly run to Handest and Randers. Hohøj could be the destination of a hike through the varied moraine landscape with a marvellous view over the Mariager Fjord.
• Hobro was an important trading centre until the Middle Ages and its importance is underlined by the ring castle "Fyrkat', built in 980, which was probably modelled on a Roman castle and could accommodate a garrison of several hundred soldiers. From the town centre it is about 2 km to "Fyrkat" and 1 km to the Viking Farm, a working museum with all kinds of activities where families can stay and live as they did in Viking times. Hobros Lysthavn (75 dkr.) is just under 1 km outside the town centre, while the trading port (5 dkr. per metre, minimum 75 dkr.) is right in the town. Hobro's "Museet for Danske Lystfartøjer" is housed in one of the harbour's old warehouses and is a museum well worth a visit. It documents the development of sailing as a leisure activity in a very interesting way and now has some magnificent sailing boats on display.

Navigation

Tourist information

• Mariager Tourist Office, Det gl. Rådhus, Torvet 1b, DK-9550 Mariager, phone 0045/ 98541377, fax 0045/98541614, www.mariagerturist.dk , e-mail: mariager@mariagerturistik.dk
• Daumarks Saltcenter, Havnen, DK-9550 Mariager, phone 0045/98541816, www.saltcenter.com , e-mail: salt@saltcenter.com
• Hobro Turistbureau, Sdr. Kajgade 16, DK-9500 Hobro, phone 0045/98525666, fax 0045/98522870, www.hobro.bynet.dk
• Vikingecenter Fyrkat, Fyrkatvej 37b, DK-9500 Hobro, phone 0045/98511927, fax 0045/98522752, www.vikingecenter-fyrkat.dk , e-mail: poul@fyrkat.dk