Turquoise blue water, crowded bays and the search for the perfect anchorage: on short trips around Malta and Comino, a family experiences postcard idylls, mass tourism and, in the end, a conciliatory sunset on their summer cruise. Part 2/4: Comino and the west.
Getting up early is rarely necessary on Malta, as the distances are always manageable. It's barely seven miles to our anchorage on the neighbouring island of Comino. But the bay is popular - and whoever arrives first secures the best spot.
The island is quite a contrast to Malta, smaller than Heligoland and officially has only three permanent residents. The biggest attraction is the Blue Lagoon, a bay with extremely clear water over a sandy bottom, which is visited daily by a number of passenger ships and private boats and which we want to visit tomorrow on our onward journey. However, the majority of the island is deserted and barren, criss-crossed by paths that make it possible to explore the island on foot.
Paradise full to bursting
As expected, the Blue Lagoon, two bays further on, is also extremely busy: six excursion boats are moored with stern lines on the rocks, the entire shore is lined with people walking around aimlessly to explore the bay. The demarcated bathing area is reminiscent of an open-air swimming pool. It's high season. The water is worthy of the name "Blue Lagoo", sandy bottom and therefore bright blue. But nothing that we haven't already experienced in other bays - and nothing worth putting up with the hustle and bustle for. We do a lap of the bay and take to our heels.
We head back to the mainland and our next stop is Golden Bay Cove. The shore is lined with hundreds of parasols, as the beach is one of the most popular on the island. The water is a little milky, but the beach is very inviting despite the crowds. Childhood memories: We used to spend our family holidays here in the hotel above the bay.
In search of an anchorage
In the bay of Għajn Tuffieħa, half a nautical mile further on, there is a similarly long sandy beach, but without a bathing area, where, according to the Navily app, landing would not be a problem. There on the beach, I was already looking longingly at the long-distance yachts at anchor - but obviously didn't realise how miserably they were rolling at anchor here! The bay is very unprotected, "Mono" is right in the middle of it and the swell is 20 degrees to 20 degrees on each side. So there's nothing for us here either - instead we move on.
It is only in the crescent-shaped Ġnejna Bay that we are successful and set the hook outside the Muring field in four metres of deep, crystal-clear water on a sandy bottom. A huge and almost dramatically beautiful, 80 metre high and very steep hill rises to the north of the bay and is picturesquely illuminated in the evening sun. It has slipped down due to rainfall, forming the gently curving but steep slopes.
All's well that ends well in Malta
This bay with its beach and restaurant seems to belong more to the locals. Shacks carved into the rock reinforce this impression. They date back to the time when fishermen had to store their boats and equipment here right by the water. Many are simple caves with doors, some have been extended and walled in, some with temporary verandas. Despite the many places we visited and the many failed attempts to find a suitable place to spend the night, we only logged 16 nautical miles today. The distances here are really short.
We cross over in the dinghy and enter a small harbour basin carved into the rock. On one side, the rock is as smooth as a quay wall and makes it possible to land. But there are signs here of all places: "Attention, mooring for loading and unloading only". So someone has to stay with the boat. As the sun is already low in the sky, we order a takeaway pizza from the restaurant. We watch the sunset directly ahead on the trampoline at the bow. We are reconciled with the day, the atmosphere is wonderful.
Jill Grigoleit
Editor Travel
