Text: Johannes Erdmann
“Is this your first time in Malta?” asks harbour master Giti Adibi as we check in at Roland Marina. The marina is situated directly opposite the Valletta peninsula, the capital of Malta, and in the district of Gzira, a neighbourhood close to the city centre where you can still afford to spend the night. “Well,” I hesitate, “I spent a week’s holiday here almost 25 years ago,” I say. But before I can add that I was only 14 at the time, the lady cuts me off curtly. “Then … this is your first time in Malta.”
Heavy traffic and steep prices
A great deal is said to have changed over the past two and a half decades. I’m happy to believe that. What we’ve seen so far has made a big impression on us. Even as we approached the island, we noticed the many motorboats and speedboats circling the island along the coast on an invisible route, on their way from the main town – around which most of the marinas are situated – to the lovely anchorages and swimming spots. We hadn’t expected to see so many boats here at all, especially as the number of marinas is actually quite limited. And mooring is very expensive: here at Roland Marina, we’re paying 156 euros per night for our 36-foot catamaran. Plus electricity, of which we’ll need quite a lot for our air conditioning, because even now – in June – it’s already incredibly hot here. We’re not far from Africa. To be precise, we’re actually already south of Tunis and Algiers.
The other marinas on the Valletta peninsula charge even more; there, we could moor at a jetty for 250 euros or more per night, but we’d have the beautiful old town within walking distance and wouldn’t have to take the ferry (4.50 euros return) as we do now. But for the 100 euros we save, we can take the ferry quite a lot...
No marina, no shore leave
As cruising sailors, we usually try to avoid marinas as much as possible, but in Malta we had to admit that we wouldn’t be able to see the most beautiful sights without stopping at a marina. We’d already realised this on our arrival a week ago at our first anchorage on the island. We’d arrived on the island after a 65-nautical-mile crossing from Sicily and had dropped anchor in Għadira Bay, a spacious bay that’s very sheltered on all sides except the east. The next morning we were due to go ashore; the whole crew – consisting of two adults and three children aged between five years and six months – was full of anticipation. Fresh bread and, of course, ice cream were on the list, along with an exploratory trip to the long beaches to the west of the bay, which looked so inviting to our little ones.
Welcome to Malta
Right between a diving centre and Starbucks, we found a flat concrete jetty, right next to the police boat. Perfect for mooring. Another dinghy was just casting off, so we headed for the stainless-steel ring that had just become free. The dinghy was quickly moored and the crew were all ashore except for the skipper, who was still busy stowing the children’s lifejackets. Just as I was about to step ashore, a water police officer approached and asked why we’d come ashore. “Er... we’d just like to stretch our legs,” we began our explanation, to which he replied that “that’s perfectly fine”, only to add very firmly: “Provided one person stays on the boat.” Seeing our astonished faces, he added: “That’s the rule in Malta. No boat may be left unattended unless it’s moored in a harbour.” He left us rather taken aback, but kept an eye on us. We hadn’t known that.
Strict dinghy rules in Malta
Rather than completely throwing our planned day out the window, we first did some research back on board: We found nothing in the sailing guides to suggest that there was a law in force requiring dinghies to be left only in the harbour, but a notice from Transport Malta did in fact inform all boaters in 2020 that public jetties, quay walls and similar facilities were to be used solely for loading or unloading boats whilst moored, but that boats must not be left there unattended. Mooring unattended is therefore fine, and beaches are not mentioned either – apparently, it is possible to go ashore there. However, there isn’t always a way to leave the dinghy there safely, let alone chain it up.
We decide to circumnavigate the island in a week, as planned, and see just how strictly these dinghy regulations are actually enforced. Malta isn’t big, which is an advantage: in terms of area, it’s about twice the size of Sylt – or slightly smaller than Munich. Stretching about 27 kilometres from north-west to south-east and about 14.5 kilometres wide, you can get from one side of the island to the other in just over an hour. Then there’s the neighbouring island of Comino in the north-west; we’ll give Gozo a miss.
Along the northern coast of Malta
The next morning, our course takes us just a few miles further south to ‘San Pawl il-Baħar’, as it is marked on the maps here. We’ve yet to get used to the Maltese place names – if that’s even possible. In any case, the language is unique in the world, consisting half of an Arabic core with significant Italian and minor English influences.
Fortunately, however, the English names are often also shown on the place-name signs. For example, ‘San Pawl il-Baħar’ is better known as ‘St Paul’s Bay’, named after the Apostle Paul, who was shipwrecked here around the year 60 AD whilst on his way to Rome. Even today, a large statue on an offshore island commemorates the early missionary, who wrote the following about his arrival in the Acts of the Apostles: ‘The people of the island showed us extraordinary kindness; they lit a fire and welcomed us all in because of the rain that had fallen and the cold.’
San Pawl il-Baħar
We quickly find an anchorage, right at the western end of the bay and just before the vast mooring area where the locals tie up their boats. Right next to it is a small fishing harbour, St Pauls Harbour, with a long concrete jetty but no jetties. Fortunately, we find a stainless-steel ring to chain our dinghy to. This means the boat is moored in a harbour, so we’re allowed to leave it unattended.
We take a leisurely stroll along the promenade eastwards towards the town centre. The road winds its way over the hills and the view across the bay is phenomenal. Especially as our catamaran is bobbing peacefully at anchor amidst the scenery, surrounded by bushes and trees. The town centre doesn’t have all that much to offer, but there’s a playground for our children, as well as restaurants, two swimming pools and a jetty for cruise ships and the ferries to Gozo and the popular Blue Lagoon on Comino, which we plan to visit tomorrow. Before heading back on board, however, we take a detour in the dinghy to the many caves nestled in the cliffs below the town. It’s a brilliant experience – and not just for the kids.