Text: Johannes Erdmann
Is this your first time in Malta?" asks harbour master Giti Adibi as we check in at Roland Marina. The marina is located right opposite the Valetta peninsula, the capital of Malta, and in the Gzira district, a neighbourhood close to the city centre where you can still afford to spend a night. "Well," I hesitate, "I spent a week's holiday here almost 25 years ago," I say. But before I can categorise the sentence that I was only 14 years old at the time, the lady cuts me off dryly. "Then ... you're on holiday in Malta for the first time".
Lots of traffic and high prices
A lot is said to have changed in the past two and a half decades. I like to believe that. We are very impressed by what we have seen so far. As we approached the island, we noticed the many motorboats and speedboats that circle the island on an invisible path along the coast, on their way from the big city, around which most of the marinas are located, to the beautiful anchorages and bathing spots. We didn't expect to see so many boats here, especially as the number of marinas is very limited. And the stay is very expensive: we pay 156 euros per night for our 36-foot catamaran here in the Roland Marina. Plus electricity, of which we will need quite a bit for our air conditioning, because now - even in June - it is already insanely hot here. We are not far from Africa. In fact, we're already south of Tunis and Algiers.
The other marinas on the Valetta peninsula are even more expensive. We could tie ourselves to a jetty there for 250 euros or more per night, but we would be within walking distance of the beautiful old town and wouldn't have to take the ferry (4.50 euros there and back) as we do now. But for the 100 euro saving, we can travel a lot by ferry...
No shore leave without a marina
As cruising sailors, we often try to avoid marinas anyway, but on Malta we had to admit to ourselves that we wouldn't be able to see the most beautiful sights without visiting a marina. We had already realised this when we arrived at our first anchorage on the island a week ago. We had arrived on the island after a 65 nautical mile crossing from Sicily and had dropped anchor in Għadira Bay, a spacious bay that is very sheltered in all directions except the east. The next morning, the whole crew - consisting of two adults and three children aged between five years and six months - was full of anticipation. Fresh bread and definitely ice cream were on the list, as well as an exploratory tour of the long beaches to the west of the bay, which seemed so inviting to our youngsters.
Welcome to Malta
We found a shallow concrete pier right between a diving centre and Starbucks, right next to the police boat. Perfect for landing. Another dinghy had just cast off and we aimed for the stainless steel ring that had become free. The dinghy was quickly moored and the crew were ashore except for the skipper, who was busy stowing the children's life jackets. Just as I was about to step ashore, a water police officer approached and enquired about the reason for our landing "Er ... we'd like to stretch our legs", we began our explanation, to which he replied "that's perfectly fine", but then added very firmly: "If one person stays on the boat." In response to our astonished faces, he added: "That's a rule in Malta. No boat may be left unattended unless it is in a harbour." Quite taken by surprise, he left us behind, but kept an eye on us. We hadn't realised that.
Strict dinghy rules in Malta
Instead of completely throwing our planned day overboard, we first did some research back on board: we didn't read anything in the sailing guides about it being the law to only leave your dinghy in the harbour, but a notice from the Transport Malta authority actually informed all boaters in 2020 that public jetties, quay walls and similar facilities may only be used for loading or unloading boats for mooring, but boats may not be left there unattended. Unattended anchoring is therefore fine and beaches are not mentioned, apparently making it possible to land. But there is not always a way to safely leave the dinghy behind or even chain it up.
We decide to circumnavigate the island in a week as planned and see how strictly these dinghy regulations are enforced. Malta is not large, which is an advantage: in terms of area, it is about twice the size of Sylt - or slightly smaller than Munich. With an extension of around 27 kilometres in a north-west - south-east direction and a width of around 14.5 kilometres, you can get from one side of the island to the other in just over an hour. There is also the neighbouring island of Comino to the north-west, but we won't be visiting Gozo.
Along the Maltese north coast
The next morning, our course initially takes us just a few miles further south into the "San Pawl il-Baħar", as it is labelled on the maps here. We still have to get used to the Maltese place names - if that is even possible. In any case, the language is unique in the world, consisting of an Arabic core with a large Italian and small English influence.
Fortunately, however, the English names are often included on the town signs. For example, "San Pawl il-Baħar" is better known as "St Paul's Bay", named after the apostle Paul, who was shipwrecked here around the year 60 AD on his way to Rome. Even today, a large statue on an offshore island commemorates the early missionary, who wrote the following about his arrival in the Acts of the Apostles: "The people of the country showed us unusual kindness, for they lit a fire and welcomed us all because of the rain that had fallen and because of the cold."
San Pawl il-Baħar
An anchorage is quickly found in the far west of the bay, just before the gigantic mooring field where the locals moor their boats. Right next to it is a small fishing harbour, St. Paul's Harbour, with a long concrete pier and no jetties. Fortunately, we find a stainless steel ring to tie up our dinghy. This means the boat is in a harbour, so we can leave it unattended.
We take a relaxed stroll along the promenade eastwards towards the town centre. The road runs over hills and the view over the bay is phenomenal. Especially as our cat is picturesquely anchored in the middle of the scenery, surrounded by bushes and trees. The town centre doesn't have too much to offer, but there is a playground for our children, restaurants, two swimming pools and a jetty for cruise ships and the ferries to Gozo and the popular Blue Lagoon on Comino, which we want to visit tomorrow. Before heading back on board, however, we take the dinghy on a diversion to the many caves in the rocks below the town. A great experience, and not just for the kids.
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Jill Grigoleit
Editor Travel
