Greenland: The Sermilik Fjord on the east coast – from Kulusuk into the ice

Text: Heinz Klausmann

It is mid-August. Back home, the heatwave is making us break out in a sweat and sending the children to the outdoor swimming pool. We have to wrap up warm as we set off from the Hotel Kulusuk – the only building in the area – to explore. Thick clouds, a moderate breeze, an air temperature of 8°. “All safe,” replies Jakob, the Danish hotel manager, when asked about polar bears. A female bear with a cub was last spotted near the airport last summer.

Kulusuk: Arrival in East Greenland

The village, with its 195 inhabitants, is easy to explore. It is the second-largest settlement on Greenland’s 2,700-kilometre-long east coast. Colourful wooden houses, a nursery, a school, a basic medical centre, a small jetty. Gravel roads, travelled by quad bikes in summer and by snowmobiles and dog sleds in winter.

A few children playing and quite a few chained-up, howling polar dogs. At the grocery shop, a sign announces four market days between 31 July and 29 May. The pace is very slow here. Ideal for slowing down. We’ve now fully acclimatised. We’re now heading to the ‘Varuna’. The cruise begins.

We’re heading aboard the “Varuna”

On board, the conversation switches to French: “Mangez-vous tout?” “Do you eat everything?”, any allergies? Luse wants to know exactly. She’ll be in charge of catering for us during our ten-day journey to the icy islands of East Greenland. Gianluca, from Lugano in Ticino, has been a guest on board before. Over the welcome cocktail, he raves about the excellent cuisine.

The first proof will soon be on the table. Home-caught cod ‘à la brésilienne’, a taste of home from our cook. Over dinner, Captain Lionel introduces mountain guide Ronan from Grenoble to our group of five. He will be accompanying us on our daily excursions into the mountains surrounding our anchorages.

Through the Ammassalik Fjord

“Towards the sun” is the motto as we set off for Tiilerilaaq the following morning. Dark clouds hang over the coast. The skipper explains that, based on years of observation, such weather conditions would normally have led him to seek the proximity of the inland ice, with its stable microclimate.

As we sail through the Ammassalik Fjord, the sun glimmers in the distance through the monotonous grey. With its two sleeping areas beneath large windows, the deckhouse offers an ideal refuge when the outside temperature is around five degrees. With a light headwind, the autopilot takes over the helm whilst the boat is under engine power.

Tiilerilaaq: The First Excursion

The sails remain lowered in the narrow Ikaasattivaaq Sound. Shortly before we reach our destination for the day, Tiilerilaaq, the sky clears. Lionel takes us guests ashore in the dinghy. His thick neoprene jumpsuit with integrated rubber boots is impressive. Essential for survival at water temperatures of 3° Celsius.

Well-equipped, we set off on our exploration. Ronan carries his large-calibre rifle within easy reach on his rucksack. Having had several encounters with polar bears, he is always on his guard. The group stays together at all times. A few children are playing in the warm light of the afternoon sun as we pass through the village with its handful of houses.

The first icebergs in sight!

On a hill behind the helipad, the moment has arrived: icebergs. White behemoths of all shapes and sizes cover the dark blue waters of the Sermilik Fjord. Impressive. It’s hard to imagine finding a way through these icy monuments with the ‘Varuna’.

Further up, the view from the rocky heights looks back down onto the secluded anchorage and our floating home. Numerous plants grow on the banks of a mountain lake with crystal-clear water. The sorrel picked here will add a special touch to our dinner. The water collected in drinking bottles is also set aside for Luse. Living in harmony with nature.

On the Sermilik Fjord

The next morning, in glorious sunshine, we approach the floating ice blocks. They seem to shine out at us in fascinating shades of blue and white. Gianluca is absolutely thrilled. The passionate nature photographer has been travelling to the Arctic for decades. Using a long focal length, he’s on the lookout for bizarre formations. ‘Too much sun for sharp shots,’ he complains. His time will come. Ariela and Suzann are enjoying the dazzling light.

Skipper Lionel has his hands full. He is constantly switching between the steering wheels, from port to starboard and back again. The aim is to avoid the ice, some of which extends a long way below the surface. The impact of smaller chunks of ice occasionally shakes the hull. This doesn’t bother the 40-tonne vessel in the slightest. When there is no wind, it glides slowly, slaloming through the seemingly endless icy landscape.

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