Part 1 of the cruise report with the Finnish capital Helsinki can be found here!
With predominantly south-westerly winds and a distance of 42 nautical miles, the course to Estonia and its capital Tallinn is generally not nautical witchcraft. But caution is advised: The weather should always be closely monitored. There is no land cover en route, and when low-pressure areas with strong gusts pass through, the sea can quickly become steep and unpleasant.
The Estonian coast
The Gulf of Finland was an important trade route for centuries - and even today, numerous ferries, container ships and tankers cross here. After just a few miles, the flat profile of the Estonian coast can be seen on the horizon. It stretches for around 250 nautical miles from the Russian border in the east all the way down to Latvia in the south.
There are several large and small islands off the west coast, some of which form a closed, protected area - almost inland-like. The northern coastline, on the other hand, is wooded and characterised by sandy and rocky beaches. However, there are only a few safe anchorages here for yachts with a deep draught, as the water depths are usually not sufficient.
Arrival in Tallinn
The next landmark we recognise is the beacon on the island of Naissaar. From here it is only a few miles to Tallinn - directly into the Old City Marina. The modern harbour is located right next to the old town, with modern office buildings and flats being built all around. Well protected from wind and waves, it offers a safe berth.
Only a few steps separate the harbour and the old town - and we are already in the middle of a capital city that combines the Middle Ages and modernity in a fascinating way. The Old Town of Tallinn, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, enchants visitors with its Hanseatic gabled houses, cobbled alleyways, Gothic churches and colourful merchants' houses. A picture-perfect atmosphere unfolds around the Town Hall Square, which is also home to the oldest town hall in Northern Europe.
Middle Ages and modernity
The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral is just a few steps up from the Town Hall Square. Its onion domes gleam in Russian Orthodox splendour, while the vantage points on the cathedral hill offer breathtaking views over the city and the sea. Toompea Castle, which has been the seat of various rulers over the centuries - from the Knights of the Order to Tsarist times - is also enthroned here. Today, the Estonian parliament, the Riigikogu, meets here.
If you love art and culture, visit KUMU, Estonia's modern art museum, or the creative Telliskivi neighbourhood. This is where street art, small boutiques and cafés meet old industrial backdrops. Right next door is the alternative photography museum Fotografiska with exciting temporary exhibitions and a restaurant on the roof.
The old town tells of its medieval heritage - with towers, walls and alleyways that preserve stories from centuries long past. And yet it is only a few steps from here to the pulsating heart of a young, digital metropolis. Between start-ups, design shops, French cafés and street food markets, Tallinn is cosmopolitan and keen to experiment.
"Here, people wear trainers with their suits and talk about ideas instead of just sales," explains Mati Rabane, 21. He works as a waiter in one of the chic Italian restaurants - but in real life he studies marketing and communication at Tallinn University.
A creative metropolis
After work, he takes on the role of city guide and shows us "his" Tallinn: creative neighbourhoods such as Kalamaja or Telliskivi with studios, second-hand shops, microbreweries and urban cuisine. Tallinn is compact, green and easy to explore on foot - or, of course, with the app-controlled e-scooters that are available on almost every corner.
Once a submarine factory, now a trendy cultural coast: in the north of Tallinn, we visit Noblessner - a former industrial and harbour area that has developed into one of the most exciting districts of the Estonian capital in recent years.
Neighbourhood with marina
Where warships were once built, maritime charm, creative energy and urban lifestyle now come together. The historic factory buildings have been modernised and are now home to an innovative art centre, trendy galleries, the PROTO inventor factory museum and a craft brewery and pub.
Noblessner is also interesting for skippers, with a modern marina located between the mine harbour and the seaplane harbour, protected by a new 70-metre breakwater. Four floating jetties offer 30 berths for guests. In the coming years, the capacity is to be expanded to more than 200 berths (harbour master +372 5688 882, port@noblessner.ee).
Thanks to EU funding, Estonia has invested heavily in maritime infrastructure in recent years. Compared to the other Baltic states, the country has a large number of harbours, particularly along the west coast and on the island of Saaremaa. Many marinas are equipped with modern facilities and offer a high standard - with harbour fees that are significantly lower than in Germany or Denmark.
A piece of Olympic history
Another marina near Tallinn is the Port of Kalev Yacht Club in Pirita to the east of the city centre, only about ten minutes by bus. The harbour is a place of historic sporting significance: Pirita was the venue for the 1980 Olympic sailing competitions - back in the days when Estonia was still a Soviet republic. The harbour with its large guest jetty is a little outdated, but has a very good infrastructure: spare parts for yachts, boats and engines as well as functional clothing and nautical equipment. Minor maintenance and repair work can also be carried out directly in the harbour.
We have now arrived at the old castle walls with Mati, looking north across the Gulf of Finland. The Finnish mainland is close enough to touch - for the parents of our young companion, this was an unreachable place in Soviet times. The junior, on the other hand, has often been to Helsinki, which is only around two hours away by fast ferry. But he doesn't want to emigrate.
Tallinn, the stand-up man
"My city has stood the test of time. Dominated by Danes, Germans, Swedes and Russians - but now we finally have the chance to help shape it ourselves!" While the celebrations are still going on down in the city, we sink into our bunks dog-tired - with the happy realisation that we are living in a Europe of diversity. And that on both sides of the Gulf of Finland, it is not fear of our neighbour to the east that dominates, but serenity, joie de vivre and a spirit of optimism.
Part 1 of the cruise report with the Finnish capital Helsinki can be found here!
Area information: Helsinki and Tallinn
Climate and travelling time
The best time is during the "white nights" from mid-May to the end of July - then it only gets dark for a few hours, the climate is temperate with little rain and a maximum temperature of 26° C. Finland has hot summers and very cold winters. The wind blows weakly to moderately in summer, strong winds are rare. Tallinn is also at its warmest between June and August, with temperatures between 18 and 22°C and very little rainfall. The area of northern Estonia usually has moderate south-westerly winds of between 5 and 20 knots.
Entry and money
Finland and Estonia are members of the EU, entry is easy for EU citizens; in both countries payment is made in euros, almost everywhere by credit card.
Territory and navigation
The Gulf of Finland is part of the Baltic Sea and forms the natural border between Finland and Estonia. To the west lies the open Baltic Sea, to the east Russia (St Petersburg). The sea can build up very quickly here - without a protective coastline, crews should always be prepared. Fog is particularly common in spring and late summer, which can severely restrict visibility in the morning.
- Finland: Careful navigation is a must in the archipelago off Helsinki. There are plenty of shallows, and in some passages there are strong jet effects. Many islands offer sheltered anchorages and natural harbours. Moorings are made with a stern anchor and shore line, a trip line is recommended. Sturdy hooks are already attached to many shore rocks, but rock nails and a hammer should still be on board. At floating jetties, the boat is usually moored alongside with a stern buoy or stern anchor. In Helsinki, a 34-foot boat costs around 40 to 60 euros per night.
- Estonia: The northern coast of Estonia is characterised by long sand and stone beaches. There are only a few anchorages for yachts, as the water depths are rarely sufficient. The harbours are mostly modern and offer good protection. In the Old City Marina in Tallinn, the mooring fee (34 feet) is around 55 euros, while the surrounding marinas are considerably cheaper.
Literature and nautical charts
NV Charts Pilot 1, "Planning Chart Baltic Sea - Kristiansand to Helsinki", Finnish Boating Charts A, Harbour Manual "The Gulf of Finland/Suuri Satamakirja III" - over 170 harbours from Hanko to Virolahti as well as selected Estonian coastal regions. NV Charts Baltic Series 6, "Poland - Lithuania - Latvia, Tallinn and Approaches", Charts of Estonia 3. All charts and manuals at hansenautic.de
Photo book about the district
"Mare Balticum, Baltic Sea landscapes under sail"Nico Krauss, Delius Klasing 2024
