Part 1 of the reportage with the west of Tenerife read here.
On the last third of the passage to Gomera, we encounter the wind acceleration zone between the islands for the first time. It's easy to recognise by the whitecaps in front of us. Blessed are those who reef in time. Shortly afterwards, even with half the sail area, we are hurtling towards the southern tip of Gomera at double-digit speeds. As if we had switched on the turbo.
To the hippies of La Gomera
The magic ends as abruptly as it began. Suddenly the sails flapped erratically, and shortly afterwards the wind came from the front, so that we couldn't make it to our destination of Valle Gran Rey in daylight.
We search for and find the next hippy bay. It's easy to recognise by the inhabited caves in the rock. Mindful of the tidal range, we head as close to land as possible for maximum protection. Not even the two catamarans in the bay are really calm behind the rocky headland. Somehow the direction of the waves doesn't match the north-east trade wind. As soon as an offshore wind sets in in the evening, which smells of beach fires, the ship lies at right angles to the wave. And the stern anchor is so massive that you're afraid of sinking the dinghy.
Impressive south: to Gran Rey
On day three, we sail with moderate winds along Gomera's impressive south coast. In the early afternoon, we moor at the massive quay wall in Valle Gran Rey, which looks rather slight compared to the rock faces opposite. Mooring is also a relative matter: the tidal range here is over two metres. We need a lot of slack in the mooring lines, otherwise the swell will quickly tear the cleats out of the deck. All the fenders are deployed and have plenty to do.
It is particularly bad this month, says a German cruising sailor. Even the locals said so and blamed it on a planetary constellation: the full moon with six planets in a row. Somehow everything was even more turbulent than usual. The skipper points to a steel yacht between our boats and says that a storm had recently passed through here, travelling at 50 knots at the pier. The ship had torn itself loose from the anchor and had been washed over the rocks for hours.
Then ashore in the evening. Valle Gran Rey is the real habitat of the old hippies here. It's easy to recognise a German band covering rock classics. The Stones, Pink Floyd, Santana. They are joined by a fire dancer who somehow looks familiar. It takes a while for the penny to drop. The lady is the protagonist in an Arte documentary about dropouts, "The dream of paradise - only love counts". The atmosphere on the beach is suitably peacocky. Good old Gomera ...
The plan: over to La Palma
Things are not so peaceful on the water the next day. We want to go to La Palma. Unfortunately, the plan to head for Tazacorte in the west of the island doesn't work out. The harbour is fully booked until the end of March, we are told when we call the marina there. And anchoring in front of it, with waves from the west, is not an appealing idea after a long ride and with no other alternative.
There's still room for us in the capital Santa Cruz de La Palma. Theoretically. Without swell and jolting in the lines, which is extremely appealing after three choppy nights. But in practice, you have to master the passage first: In gusts, wind forces of up to seven are forecast. Even with half sails, that's too much to go hard into the wind for hours. After all, we are not on the Vendée Globe, but on holiday.
A futile attempt
We try anyway. The ship goes through the waves like a rodeo and the spray flies across the deck again and again. No sign of the long Atlantic swell. Some of the crew are visibly and audibly stressed by the conditions. So the command: Ready to tack! When sailing becomes a struggle, the fun stops. Or as the Brit says nonchalantly: "Only idiots and race men go windwards."
We turn with the wind and waves suddenly at our backs, the sun from the front. A sparkling inferno around us. A churning Atlantic. Concentrated steering is required. A jibe would be fatal. While I'm still thinking about setting a bull, the idea disappears of its own accord. In the lee of the island, I even have to use the engine.
We extend on La Gomera
What a contrast! There are often only a few ship lengths between strong winds and calm in the Canary Islands. Perhaps the most typical thing about this exciting area.
The berth on La Palma is cancelled again by e-mail. And El Hierro is also out of the question as an alternative. Especially as the nicer of the two harbours in the south of the island, La Restinga, is closed due to the many refugee boats from Africa, as we were told before the start of the trip.
The marina in San Sebastián de la Gomera feels like paradise. This peace and quiet after the failed ride, which has a long-lasting effect on some of the crew members. Everything is peaceful. Finally, no movement in the ship. But there is in the bodies. As if the Atlantic had immortalised itself in their vestibular system. The vote on the somewhat different uphill and downhill journey tomorrow by hire car is extremely unanimous.
All's well that ends well: La Palma after all
New day, old, but completely different ocean. The second attempt to cross over to La Palma works. The finest ocean sailing in Atlantic blue, below and above us. Ahead, the green La Palma. The island that last made the headlines for weeks in 2021 because it experienced its most momentous volcanic eruption.
Near Tazacorte, the lava destroyed 1,676 houses and created two new peninsulas. And a new national park. Just one of many attractions on the island, including the charming capital Santa Cruz. Instead of two days, you want to stay two weeks. But unfortunately the ship has to return.
A small consolation: the wind direction for the return journey is much more pleasant. And the probability of whale sightings between Gomera and Tenerife is very high. A nice highlight at the end of the trip, easily recognisable from the satisfied and reconciled faces on board. The conclusion on board is accordingly: As a charter sailor, you are more than amply rewarded with a challenging but varied sailing area. And the challenge. If you book the Atlantic, you get the Atlantic.
Part 1 of the reportage with the west of Tenerife read here.
Area info: Canary Islands - the West
The precinct
The Canary Islands are undeniably a spectacular sailing area with a varied backdrop. All seven main islands - Tenerife, Fuerteventura, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, La Palma, La Gomera and El Hierro - are only a day apart, but each has its own character. Most harbours have excellent facilities. However, you should call ahead to find out whether there is a berth available. Especially because quiet bays are in short supply. We didn't find a single one on our trip.
Navigation
As already mentioned in the text, you have to know what you're getting into. The Canary Islands are certainly not an area suitable for families, unless you only want to spend time in the west of Tenerife, on the leeward side of the Teide. The passages between the islands are sometimes rather sporty. Cape and wind acceleration effects should be considered in advance. It is advisable to find out in advance exactly where the wind acceleration zones are located.
Wind and weather
The Azores High is responsible for the constant north-easterly wind of 3-4 Beaufort on the Canary Islands. In summer, the trade winds are at their peak, the swell is correspondingly large and the wind is particularly strong. The weather is more moderate in the winter months, although the Azores High can occasionally be displaced by a depression, which brings Saharan winds from the south-east with limited visibility to the Canary Islands. From February to April, the weather is particularly capricious.
Whale-Watching
Between Tenerife and Gomera in the south, around five miles off the coast, is the so-called whale nursery. The chance of encountering one of the resident pilot whale families is extremely high. But so are other excursion boats. Just keep an eye out for both.
Charter
We were travelling with a Sun Odyssey 469 from 2013, which is listed as "Old but Gold". The price varies between 3,100 and 5,200 euros depending on the season. To book, call 0931/730 430 90 or contact barbera-yachting.com
Literature and maps
Unfortunately only in English: "Cruising Guide to the Canary Islands" - is available on board or only second-hand. Or "Atlantic Islands" by Imray, available for 61.20 euros from Hanse Nautic. Sea chart Imray Chart E2 "Islas Canarias", also available for 31.90 euros from hansenautic.de
