Far Haaf - in Shetland, this term stands for the edge of the world. "The far sea" is the name given to the edge of the fishing grounds, which extend around fifty nautical miles westwards from the coast into the North Atlantic. There, at the outer edge of the continental shelf, the seabed suddenly drops away steeply. The last land ends. For generations of Shetlanders, the risk of hunting for cod, ling and herring in these defenceless expanses was part of life.
Their rowing boats were open sixerns, slender double-enders, built along Nordic lines. The six men on board therefore had to be storm-tested and experienced at sea, but in a way they were born with these qualifications anyway: Around the year 800, Norwegian Vikings took over the rule of the rocky archipelago from the native Picts and called it Hjaltland.
From the Viking Age to the present day
Although Shetland has now been part of Scotland for five centuries, the legacy of the Scandinavian settlers is still fresh and vibrant, ranging from highly official symbolism such as the regional flag, a Scandinavian cross in Scottish colours, and the island motto Með lögum skal land byggja ('With the law the land is built') borrowed from the sagas, to more 'worldly' aspects such as the Up Helly Aa in Lerwick.
According to ancient custom, the winter spirits are exorcised at the Up Helly Aa on the last Tuesday in January. Real flames, torches and burning tar barrels blaze everywhere. Thousands of Vikings fill the streets, the Jarl of Honour keeps order with his armoured bodyguard and, as a highlight, a replica of a longship is set alight in the darkness. After that, the party really gets going, with singing and even more fire - in the throat. The following Wednesday is also traditionally free from work.
Destination on the cruise around Scotland
However, the connection to the land of the ancestors has also been preserved on the water. This is hardly surprising; it is only around 200 nautical miles to Bergen. The Scottish capital Edinburgh, on the other hand, is more than 300 nautical miles away. Not to mention London, which is supposed to be somewhere very far to the south ...
The sea route between Shetland and Norway became particularly important during the Second World War for smuggling daring agents back to their German-occupied homeland by secret means. More on this later. Today, fortunately, it is wanderlust, often with a dash of adventure, that attracts visitors on their own keel.
And that doesn't just mean the cruise ship passengers that have become a familiar sight in the summer months, but also sailing crews. Many come over from Norway on the spectacular cruise around Scotland, whose programme also includes the Orkneys, the Western Isles and the Caledonian Canal across the Highlands include.
Shetland: A sailing area in its own right
The archipelago is an area in itself, with rough and gentle sides, a lively capital, spectacular nature and endless opportunities for shore excursions. Even the weather is "varied". But only sunshine is boring anyway, isn't it?
Shetland consists of around one hundred islands, twenty of which are inhabited. The largest of the bunch is Mainland. Its area measures approximately 1,000 square kilometres, which is roughly the size of the island of Rügen. The large Northmavine peninsula in the north-west is only connected to the rest of Mainland by a narrow land bridge.
In addition to the main town of Lerwick on the North Sea coast and the airport near Sumburgh on the southern tip, Scalloway is also the most important harbour on the Atlantic side of the island. Around 1,100 inhabitants are enough to secure Scalloway second place among Shetland's towns. The harbour with its freight terminal, fishing pier and marina is overlooked by the walls of Scalloway Castle.
Shetland Bus - History in Scalloway
In the shadow of the ruins is the museum, which, among other things, tells the most exciting story in recent history: From 1941 until the end of the war, Scalloway was the starting point of the Shetland Bus: with inconspicuous cutters and fast motor cruisers, the Norwegian navy maintained a secret, highly dangerous shuttle service to the fjord coast of their occupied country.
From Shetland, they brought weapons and equipment for the underground, agents and commandos; on the way back, refugees and Allied soldiers in hiding filled the boats. A story full of courage and hardship. The best-known skipper was the Norwegian Leif Larsen, known as "Shetland Larsen", who himself completed 52 voyages. However, many crews were lost, victims of the Germans or the merciless sea itself. The story is shown in the Scalloway Museum.
Lerwick is the centre of Shetland
However, the first port of call for leisure skippers will be Lerwick, with its 7,000 inhabitants, shops, pubs and restaurants (there is even a French one) and unquestionably Shetland's "metropolis". People have made a lot of money here, with bowhead whale, salted herring and smuggled gin. Today it is tourists - among others.
Due to its central location, Lerwick is perfect for exploring, most conveniently by hire car. Avis and Europcar offices are located near the harbour. Other highlights include the modern Shetland Museum and an excursion on the water to the breeding colonies of migratory birds on the steep eastern flank of the Isle of Noss off the island of Bressay, either on your own keel or by excursion boat.
Wild North: the Northern Isles
The two islands of Yell and Unst form the northern part of the archipelago, the Northern Isles. They are connected to each other and to Mainland by ferries. The narrow sounds between the islands are characterised by strong tidal currents. The further north you go, the rougher the landscape and the less populated it becomes. Nevertheless, this is where most of the Viking Age sites are to be found, with the remains of more than sixty longhouses having been uncovered on Unst alone.
Shetland's most spectacular circular walk leads across the Hermaness peninsula in the far north. From the grassy plateau above the cliffs, there are fantastic views of colonies of seabirds and the island of Muckle Flugga - its lighthouse, built in 1855 by the Stevenson brothers in an almost impossible location, was the most northerly inhabited place in the British Isles until it was automated in 1995. What a job on the edge of the world!
Territory information: Shetland
The precinct
Shetland's location alone makes it a very challenging area. Route planning, navigation, tide calculation and weather observation require a great deal of nautical experience and the suitability of crew, yacht and equipment for voyages in the sea area in question. Although summer months only have an average of three foggy days and one stormy day, difficult weather situations are possible at any time. When approaching Lerwick, yachts from abroad report to VHF channel 12 and, after mooring, to the Port Authority in the Albert Building for the Clearing in with the UK Border Force.
The harbours
Considering Shetland's remoteness, the archipelago offers a surprising number of moorings for guest mariners. A total of 22 harbours are available throughout the area, including in remote locations (see map). Crucially, most of these harbours offer good shelter and the majority are at least equipped with a floating jetty, regardless of the tide. Comprehensive services can only be found in Lerwick and Scalloway. A complete overview with contact information can be found on the Internet.
The literature
Area guide "Orkney and Shetland Islands. Including North and Northeast Scotland". Imray, 150 p.; A4 format, softcover, ISBN 978-1-78679-161. 48,50 €. - Various official nautical charts (Admiralty). Purchase of all articles for example via nvcharts.com
