Atlantic: Cape Verde – São Vicente, home to Mindelo, the ‘Island of Music’

​On the evening of the sixth day, God had completed creation. Satisfied, he leaned back to take stock of his work. Then he noticed that a few crumbs of earth were still hidden in the folds of his apron. He realised that he had nothing left with which to breathe life into them.

Resolutely, he scattered them out into the endless expanse of the sea. After all, his world had become so vast and beautiful that no one would ever find their way to these remote islands anyway. Then, at last, he came to rest. That is how the Cape Verde Islands came into being – at least, that is the story told there today.

You can hear the music

As the scheduled flight from Lisbon approaches, it seems as though the Creator was right after all: after hours over the Atlantic, bright patches gradually become visible in its deep blue – an archipelago. Rugged coastlines, barren slopes, arid plains. Yet there is nothing that moves.

But the picture changes the closer you get. It comes to life, because Cabo Verde – as this small, independent community in the middle of the ocean calls itself – is not deserted. Admittedly, life is still not easy, as you soon realise. Suffering is part of the culture. But you can now see the people living their lives here, just as they do everywhere else in the world. And you can hear them. Especially when they’re doing something that holds particular value when you don’t have much else: music.

The Queen of Morna

First and foremost is Cesária Évora. At the harbour in Mindelo, you cannot fail to notice the singer’s likeness, larger than life on the façade of a warehouse, radiant just as she was in her heyday on international stages. The ‘Queen of Morna’, whose solemn, plaintive tones so aptly express the fateful world-weariness of the Cape Verdeans, both at home and in the distant diaspora. Through her music, she made the archipelago famous even beyond Cape Verde itself.

Today, it looks out over her home town and the bay in front of it in cheerful colours, with its colourful fishing boats and rusting trawlers, the yachts in the marina – the only one in the entire archipelago – and the large cargo ships. Mindelo is not only the island nation’s most important commercial port, but also the starting point for the journey that now lies ahead of us.

Over the next ten days, we want to explore the small world of Cape Verde, visiting islands that are said to be completely different from one another. The only way to do this is as it has been for centuries: by sea.

Less Africa, more Europe

On the short journey from the airport into town, the vast bay of Mindelo opens up on the left, blue and teeming with ships, some in various stages of disrepair. At the front of the shore, a large tugboat lies aground. The streets look as if they’ve just been swept, blown clean by the wind. There are many shades of grey and beige, but also splashes of colour. Sparkling-clean cars compete to see which shines brightest. It doesn’t look much like Africa here – the continent to which the island nation of Cabo Verde belongs. Much of it is reminiscent of Portugal.

The small beach: not very inviting. Fish offal and plastic bottles. Colourful fishing boats are moored near the fish market, a large hall which is already closed, however. The many cafés and bars are still quiet. Tourists are enjoying the sun, whilst musicians in the shade of the awnings are setting up their instruments and equipment for the evening. You can already hear the odd rehearsal here and there

Traces of the colonial past

On to the former administrative headquarters from the Portuguese era, once the Palácio do Governo, now the Palácio do Povo – the People’s Palace. Built in 1874 in a white colonial style, with red bougainvillea in front. The street leading up to it also reflects this history: it is called Rua Libertadores d’África, Street of the Liberators of Africa. Before independence in 1975, all roads had literally led to Lisbon, including Rua Lisboa.

The supermarket, Fragata Central, has a good selection. Strela is the local beer brand. We treat ourselves to one at sunset on the roof of the cruise terminal, which has a terrace. Not a bad spot – not a bad start!

The Bermuda ketch “Chronos”

‘Chronos’ is waiting for us at the cruise terminal pier. The 54-metre-long Bermuda ketch is one of a trio of classic yachts that the Sailing Classics’ fleet . Although they have an elegant vintage look, they are modern sailing yachts: the “Chronos” was launched in 2013.

The company specialises in cabin charters, a way to fulfil your dream of blue-water sailing if you don’t have the right boat or the time needed for your own long-distance voyage. Although the “Chronos” has enough space below deck for 13 double cabins, it is at the same time small enough to still feel like a sailing yacht. This will become apparent time and again over the coming days on the long swells of the Atlantic under the north-easterly trade winds.

​“Welcome aboard!”

“Welcome aboard!” is written on the blackboard above the sideboard at the rear of the deckhouse. The crew introduce themselves: Captain Felix and First Mate Jonas, both from Germany; Bosun Darryn; deckhand Ronan; and engineer Mariusz. Then there’s the service staff: alongside host Selina, there’s head stewardess Rosy from Italy with her two assistants, Alicia and Roya. Joe runs the galley. Eleven people, eight nationalities. It doesn’t get much more international than this. English and German are spoken, sometimes both. Also on board: “tour guide” Rolf, from Germany, who lives in Portugal and has a deep connection to the little country where we are all currently guests.

Information: São Vicente

• Size of the island: 227 km²
• Location: 16°51′N, 024°58′W
• Population: 83,000
• Main town: Mindelo
• Places to lie down: Mindelo Marina (at floating jetties), Mindelo Bay (Baía de Porto Grande, at anchor)