The mercury in the Turgutreis marina is 27 degrees Celsius. It's the end of October, and flip-flops, shorts and T-shirts are still the order of the day. Our charter boat named "Pamina", a two-year-old Oceanis 46.1, is in immaculate condition, both visually and technically. The handover is completed quickly, followed by the bulk shopping. In the eastern part of the Gulf of Gökova, which we want to explore over the next few days, there is hardly any opportunity to stock up on provisions. But that doesn't matter, there are several supermarkets around the marina in Turgutreis.
We can easily find everything we need. Great! However, I look at the bill at the checkout and feel a little disillusioned. Turkey is no longer a cheap holiday destination. It feels like we're paying at least as much as in Germany. Things were very different in the past, when the country on the Bosporus attracted hordes of tourists, not least because of its comparatively low prices. In the meantime, the economic crisis and inflation that have been going on for years are having a noticeable effect. At least we get our shopping delivered from the supermarket to the cockpit.
It is around 50 nautical miles to the popular bays at the end of the gulf. Even in the low season, there used to be sailing activity there. Will it be quieter now? The majority of German and British sailors, for whom the areas on the Turkish Aegean coast were particularly popular, have turned their backs on the country in recent years. As a result, some charter fleets have also left. We are excited.
First stage destination: Aspat Koyu
Turgutreis lies on the north-western approach to the gulf. As it will be afternoon before the shopping is stowed away, the first stage destination should not be too far away: Aspat Koyu is about halfway to Bodrum. This used to be a secluded beach with an anchorage in front of a shallow estuary. After the turn of the millennium, a lagoon town modelled on the French Port Grimaud was built in this picturesque location. The standard nautical guides, all of which are ten years old or more, still contain no information about the new harbour village and possible mooring options.
We head southwards, round Cape Ayarlar and reach the bay an hour before sunset. The entrance to the river is marked. Not much of the lagoon town can be seen from the sea due to the tall trees. Two large motor yachts are moored on the fortified western bank of the river, electricity and water columns can be seen, and there are still several free moorings on the lower reaches of the river. Could we risk going in there with our 2.05 metre draught? The outdated nautical guides mention a shallow creek. I call for a harbour master on channels 72 and 16. But nobody answers.
Exploring the lagoon city by dinghy
To be on the safe side, we drop anchor in front of the river mouth at a depth of 3.50 metres and explore the lagoon town by dinghy. The artificially created settlement is actually very beautiful, each house is individually built and has its own jetty. In the central area there is a small harbour with murings and service pillars, where sailing yachts are also moored. There are plenty of restaurants, cafés and bars all around.
A security guard asks us which property we belong to. I ask him if we can come in with our boat and stay overnight. He makes an excited phone call. After all, he wants to know how many weeks we want to stay. "One night," I reply, and I would like to know how much it costs. He talks excitedly on the phone again and runs off. We make ourselves comfortable in a bar and enjoy a mojito in the sunset, which tastes unexpectedly delicious.
Unexpected visitor in the evening
Later, we return to the anchorage in the dinghy. We throw spaghetti into the pot. By now it's pitch dark. Suddenly, a highly motorised rib with three security men comes roaring up and goes alongside. One of the men hands us a piece of paper with a Turkish mobile phone number and tells us to call the marine supervisor.
I ask what he wants. We could enter the harbour now and get a berth at a special price: for just two euros per square metre. That would be 110 euros for our boat! We thank him for the offer and prefer to enjoy the pasta and Turkish Merlot from the bakery box at the anchorage.
The largest and most modern on the coast: Milta Bodrum Marina
It is almost exactly seven miles from Aspat Bay to Bodrum Marina. The metropolis at the entrance to the Gulf of Gökova is not to be missed. With its 450 berths, the Milta Bodrum Marina is one of the largest and most modern on the Turkish coast. I register in front of the harbour via channel 73. Two marineros promptly arrive in a dinghy, guide us to one of the few free berths, take the lines, plug in the power cable, activate access to electricity and water and hand over the passwords for Wi-Fi and for the electronically secured entrance doors to the marina. So much service leaves nothing to be desired.
The former small town of Bodrum has developed into a tourist stronghold over the last 20 years. The marina is in the centre. Hundreds of cafés, bars and restaurants are lined up around the harbour bay, which are now - at the end of October - only visited by a few guests. It's hard to imagine what it's like here during the high season.
The old town centre at the foot of the former Crusader castle is also a leisurely place. In the covered shopping mile, the owners of leather, gold and souvenir shops sit drinking tea in front of empty shops. There are several restaurants on the edge of the old town with terraces overlooking the harbour bay. You can eat well there.
Here, too, the surprise comes at the end: when I receive the bill for the night in the harbour at the marina office the next morning, I ask the friendly receptionist whether they might have made a mistake. But she kindly explains that everything is correct: the night for a 13-metre boat costs 260 euros in the low season. Electricity and water are charged separately. When we set sail, I realise why there are so many sailing yachts anchored in front of the marina.
Next destination in Turkey: Çökertme Bay
It is a further 20 miles from Bodrum to Çökertme Bay. The natural harbour offers good protection in the prevailing north-westerly winds. And there are several bayside restaurants with buoys and moorings in Çökertme, including the traditional "Captain Ibrahim". We lower the sails at the entrance to the bay and are met by three boats. We decide in favour of the one with the name "Captain Ibrahim".
"Russian or German?" asks the young man at the tiller. When I answer him, he says: "Follow me!" He stops about 50 metres from the jetty of "Captain Ibrahim" and shouts: "Drop the anchor here!" As the chain rattles, we follow him in reverse to the head of the restaurant jetty. We use two stern lines to secure the boat to the best box seat right in front of the restaurant.
The owner, Ibrahim, greets us warmly in broken German. Then he explains: "Used to be a lot of Germans. Now it's all Russians and Ukrainians." He tells us that in days gone by he used to perform his famous pistol dance: Swaying to the beat of the music, he would shoot blanks around. But now he's too old for that. "But in the season," he adds proudly, "we now have music with belly dancing." Sitting on the chair, he wiggles his hips and slaps his thighs in delight.
We are the only guests and are served our dinner at a table on the jetty, right in front of our cockpit. A dozen delicious starters are followed by grilled scampi and squid, accompanied by a delicious Merlot. We paid just under 40 euros per person for dinner, including wine, plus the very best breakfast the next morning. And the berth was free. So it does still exist, comparatively cheap Turkey.
Special destination with the sailing boat in Turkey: the Cleopatra Island
With only one charter week, you don't have too much time and should choose your destinations carefully. Especially as there are endless bays in the south-east of the Gulf of Gökova. A special destination is the small archipelago around Sehir Adasi, better known among sailors as Cleopatra Island. Legend has it that it was the love island of the most famous couple of antiquity. Allegedly, the Egyptian queen Cleopatra and the Roman general Marcus Antonius met here. The ruler of the Eastern Roman Empire is said to have not only built a palace, temple and theatre for his beloved, but also laid out a beach of white sand.
There is no scientifically substantiated evidence for this beautiful story. Nevertheless, hundreds of tourists make a pilgrimage here every day, brought here on excursion boats. They all want to stretch out on the famous Cleopatra beach.
When we drop anchor off the island at 6 pm, the last boat with the park rangers is just leaving. We moor our dinghy at the park rangers' jetty, which is forbidden, and have the whole archipelago to ourselves in the last evening light. The tiny Cleopatra beach, which is paved over with sunbeds, is nothing to write home about. But the remains of the temple and the amphitheatre are worth seeing. In the morning, shortly after sunrise, the rangers return and shortly afterwards a whole armada of excursion boats. Let's get out of here!
Via the Yediadalar archipelago to the ancient City of Knidos
The most beautiful part of the southern coast of the Gulf of Gökova is the Yediadalar archipelago. Protected by four offshore islands, seven anchor bays are lined up side by side - one more beautiful than the next. The north-westerly wind has picked up, so we decide in favour of Küfre Bay in the far north, where we feel as if we are in Abraham's bosom. The peace and solitude are incredible. Only the roosters and goats of a nearby farm can be heard.
Our penultimate spot is also a highlight of the Gökova cruise: the famous ancient city of Knidos is located at the south-westernmost point of the Gulf. It became famous for the marble statue of Aphrodite, the most important work of the sculptor Praxiteles. It is said to be the first nude depiction of the female body in ancient art. The original is lost, but copies can be found in many renowned museums around the world.
In Knidos we moor comfortably alongside the small guest jetty. A harbour master helps us moor. In addition to a German yacht, four charter catamarans with crews from Russia and Ukraine are moored in Knidos. They are cheerful young people sitting together in the evening, eating, celebrating and singing. At that moment, it is hard to imagine that their compatriots are shooting at each other less than a two-hour flight from here.
History worth seeing in Turkey
The excavations at Knidos are absolutely worth seeing. It is one of the most important prehistoric sites on what is now the Turkish coast. The site is huge; make sure you have enough time to visit it! Allow a good two hours from the colonnaded avenue to the amphitheatre. Even those with little interest in history will be impressed.
We make our last stop in Mersincik Bay in the north-west of the Datça peninsula. Another secluded spot with crystal-clear water in front of a marvellous, deserted beach. It is so beautiful here that you want to put any thoughts of the country's problems to one side. Can you enjoy it here with a clear conscience? It's a question that everyone has to answer for themselves in difficult times. Despite all the crises, the region itself has lost none of its former charm.
Things to know for your cruise to Turkey
Journey
You can easily get to Bodrum for around 450 euros with Lufthansa (direct from Munich) or Turkish Airlines (via Istanbul). The transfer to Turgutreis Marina is organised by the charter company Asmira Marine (from 60 euros in a minibus).
Charter
Asmira Marine is one of the leading maritime companies on the Turkish coast and operates boat refuelling stations, bunker ships, shipyards and service companies, among other things. Asmira Marine has also been active in the charter business since 2019. The fleet includes Bavaria and Beneteau yachts as well as catamarans from Bali (ASMIRAMARINE.COM).
The Beneteau Oceanis 46.1 (built in 2021) chartered by us has four double cabins, each with its own wet room. Thanks to the furling main, electric winch, self-tacking jib and bow thruster, the yacht is easy to manoeuvre even with a small crew. Our "Pamina" was also fully equipped. Depending on the season, she costs between 3,350 and 5,350 euros per week. One-way trips between Bodrum and Göcek are possible on request. Asmira Marine is currently the only charter company in the Gulf of Gökova. Bookable via Argos Yachtcharter. Information under: TEL. 0611/660 51, ARGOS-YACHTCHARTER.COM.
Navigation & Seamanship
The area is free of currents and also largely free of shallows. The buoyage is correspondingly rare. The larger harbours are lighted at night. Anchorages in the bays of the Gulf should be approached before sunset. Beware, it gets dark early in spring and autumn. You should not make a detour to the nearby island of Kos. Crossing the border to Greece is complicated and expensive, but is permitted by the charter company.
Harbours & anchorages
There are only larger towns with marinas at the entrance to the gulf: in Turgutreis, in the bay of Aspat and in Bodrum. But that doesn't matter, as there are marvellous anchorages throughout the gulf, some of which also have small restaurants with simple wooden jetties. There are often even mooring lines laid out. Otherwise, you moor in the Roman Catholic style, i.e. with a bow anchor and the stern to the jetty. When anchoring in narrower bays, use shore lines. Never attach these to trees, as this is a punishable offence. Always attach lines to rocks, even if this is sometimes difficult.
Wind & Weather
In summer, the area is dominated by the Meltemi wind blowing from the north, which also occurs locally as a westerly wind. It follows the course of the Turkish west coast southwards. It gradually sets in in June and often reaches 6 to 7 Beaufort in July and August. It then weakens again in September. Due to the more moderate winds, the off-seasons are actually the more comfortable sailing times. Although, of course, there is good cover from the Meltemi in summer under the protection of the large gulf, especially on its north coast.
Temperatures are already above 25 degrees Celsius in May and reach up to 35 degrees in midsummer. They then fall again from September. The water temperature remains above 25 degrees Celsius until well into the autumn. Rain is only to be expected in the low season.
Literature & Charts
- Territory guide: "Türkische Küste/ Ostgriechische Inseln" by Andrea Horn and Wyn Hoop: Edition Maritim, only available second-hand from approx. 27 euros; "Charterführer Türkische Südküste" by Andreas Fritsch, available as an e-book (PDF), 3.99 euros, SHOP.DELIUS-KLASING.DE.
- Harbour guide: "Turkey West and South Coast" by Axel Kramer, See Verlag, 37 euros.
- For the shore leave: "Marco Polo Travel Guide Turkish South Coast" by Dilek Zaptçioglu & Jürgen Gottschlich: Mairdumont-Verlag, 14.95 euros.
- Sea chart: "Rhodes Channel and Gokova Korfezi", Admiralty Chart, 49.90 euros; available from specialised nautical retailers.
Tips for the area and shore leave
Aspat Koyu
In the eastern part of the bay, an artificial lagoon town was built after the turn of the millennium, which harbours a small marina inside. Short-term moorings are expensive. Anchoring at the mouth of the river is free. You can quickly reach the lagoon town with plenty of restaurants, shops and a supermarket by dinghy.
Bodrum
The marina forms the centre of the tourist stronghold. Plenty of catering and shopping opportunities. The former crusader castle can be visited. Please note: the mooring fees in the marina are extremely high. Alternatively, anchor below the castle and take the dinghy into town.
Çökertme
Bay on the north coast of the Gulf, well protected from northerly winds. Several restaurants have jetties with a few moorings, which are usually free to use when the crew dine in the restaurant in the evening. For years, "Captain Ibrahim" has been the best address at moderate prices. The restaurant has a small supermarket.
Cleopatra Island
A sheltered anchorage can be found in the north-east of the island of Sehir Adasi. During the day, hundreds of day tourists come here on excursion boats to populate the tiny Cleopatra Beach. It is therefore best not to go ashore until after 6 pm, when you have the island to yourself. The ancient theatre and the ruins of former palaces are well worth a visit.
Knidos
The ancient city can be visited from 8.30 a.m. to 7 p.m., admission costs 25 lira (approx. 1.30 euros). You can either moor your yacht alongside the guest jetty or anchor in the harbour bay. According to the harbour master, the electricity and water connections on the jetties had been out of order for some time at the time of our visit.
Mersincik
This popular anchorage is located in the north-west of the Datça peninsula, which in turn marks the south-western entrance to the Gulf of Gökova. If the north wind is too strong, you can hide out in the small lower bay in the north-west of Mersincik. However, there is little room to swing there, so be sure to deploy a shore anchor.
