- At the Gooimeer, sailors with a higher mast have to turn back
- Created by human hands: Flevoland
- The Randmeer is an interesting alternative to the IJsselmeer
- Medieval and maritime charm in Elburg
- A navigable aqueduct connects the marginal seas of Veluwemeer and Wolderwijd
- Harderwijk steeped in history
- Modern contrasts on the Flevopolder
- Time seems to have stood still in Spakenburg
- Maps and literature
More sailing trip inspiration for the Netherlands:
For most skippers who want to sail from Friesland to Amsterdam, the route leads across the IJsselmeer. An underestimated and no less attractive route is via the marginal seas - at least for sailing yachts with a mast height of less than 12.70 metres.
At the Gooimeer, sailors with a higher mast have to turn back
This is because the Gooimeer is bordered by the two motorway bridges Hollandse Brug and Stichtse Brug at the very south-western end of the interconnected waters. But even for keel yachts with higher masts, a detour to the inland area is worthwhile and should not be missed if you have enough time - even as a dead-end cruise. The artificially created chain of lakes is a popular recreational boating area and offers enough destinations for a separate section of the trip. Especially for sailors who like things a little quieter: no swell, short distances, varied landscapes, idyllic natural moorings and modern marinas in typical Dutch harbour towns.
Created by human hands: Flevoland
The area was created in the 1960s through embankment and drainage. Originally, the entire southern part of the IJsselmeer was to be embanked. The Houtribdijk - also known as the Markermeer dyke - was built for this purpose. The first step was to drain the Flevopolder in the south-east. A chain of connected lakes was preserved between the huge polder, now the island of Flevoland, and the mainland so that the historic harbour towns of Elburg, Harderwijk and Spakenburg were not cut off from shipping. Flevoland was to be the last polder. The protests of nature conservationists against the gradual draining of the former Zuiderzee became increasingly vigorous towards the end of the last century. In 2003, the Dutch government finally cancelled the plans to polder the Markermeer.
The towns to the east and south of Flevoland are less touristy and more rustic than the harbour towns on the east coast of the Markermeer. Sailing with boats is still practised here today, pure seafaring romance.
The Randmeer is an interesting alternative to the IJsselmeer
Enough reasons for us to leave the IJsselmeer to the left this time and head south-east from Urk instead. With wind and swell to starboard, we navigate a few nautical miles southwards across the IJsselmeer to turn eastwards into the Ketelmeer at Ketelbrug. Part of the 800 metre-long bridge that connects the Noordoostpolder and the eastern Flevopolder is hinged. There is a lot of shipping traffic here. Motorboats, sailing yachts, traditional sailing boats and cargo ships pass as if they were on a motorway. In the south-east of the Ketelmeer, we head into the Vossemeer and thus into more sheltered waters. There is less shipping traffic, the water is narrower and the lovely landscape draws closer.
The marginal seas are between three and ten nautical miles long, but only a few hundred metres wide at the narrowest points. From north-east to south-west, they are called: Ketelmeer, Zwarte Meer, Vossemeer, Drontermeer and the largest marginal sea, Veluwemeer, which is almost ten nautical miles long. From here, the route continues via an aqueduct into the Wolderwijd, Nuldernauw, Nijkerkernauw, Eemmeer and finally into the Gooimeer. If you enter from the north, you will find the old seafaring villages on the former southern coast of the Zuiderzee on the port side. Flevoland lies to starboard.
The area is particularly suitable for smaller boats, but can also be navigated with a keel yacht. The water levels are regulated by locks. Only away from the fairway, on the islands and in some small harbours can you expect the water to be shallower. The route, which is around 37 nautical miles long, can be travelled with a standing mast up to the Gooimeer in the far south.
Medieval and maritime charm in Elburg
We decided to head for Elburg first. The town is one of the oldest places on the former Zuiderzee. Mentioned in documents as early as 796, it later joined the Hanseatic League. After a severe storm surge in the 14th century, Elburg was rebuilt like a chessboard and fortified with high walls. They were not only intended to protect the town from attackers, but also from the tides of the North Sea. The wooden Zuiderzee otters, flat-bottomed, half-decked coastal sailing boats nine to 15 metres long with centreboards, are still built and restored in Elburg today.
Originally they were used for fishing and transport, but today bots are being converted into yachts or rebuilt.
In the afternoon, we steer into the branch canal to Elburg. All the moorings along the canal are occupied. We sail to the last corner of the old harbour, where a whole fleet of boats is moored. There's no chance of finding a berth here. Finally, we spot the harbour master watching our search for a parking space. "You have to park in the second or third row," he shouts. We lay alongside a two-pack of motor yachts, as more pleasure craft are coming in from the outside towards Elburg, all of which are sure to need a berth.
From the harbour, it is just a few minutes' walk through the fish gate to the rectangular medieval town centre. Life pulsates in the streets of the largely car-free old town centre. There are many small shops, cafés and pubs. Although Elburg is also touristy, you will mainly meet Dutch people here.
A navigable aqueduct connects the marginal seas of Veluwemeer and Wolderwijd
We set sail early in the morning and head south-west out onto Lake Veluwe. It is well known that the Dutch have a great talent for creating maritime landscapes to suit their taste. They have built seven islands into the Veluwemeer. The larger ones have "natural" harbour basins where you can usually go alongside. We reach the Wolderwijd via a navigable trough bridge, the Veluwemeer aqueduct. Our destination is the old Hanseatic town of Harderwijk, once the most important harbour in the south of the Zuiderzee.
When Amsterdam and Rotterdam were still villages, Harderwijk was already a powerful member of the German Hanseatic League.
To get to the old harbour, you navigate through the new Waterstad. Here, too, you can see the talent of the Dutch for making land out of water and developing it very tastefully. In addition to a marina, this includes the ubiquitous navigable canals.
Harderwijk steeped in history
Because we arrive in Harderwijk at 11 a.m., we get a berth in Vissershaven, the old fishing harbour, without any problems. An hour later, the harbour is already full and nothing works without a reservation. We are moored in the middle of the old town centre. The windmill, the traditional Botter shipyard and the beautiful market square with its historic buildings are just a few minutes' walk away. One tourist attraction is the Dolfinarium, the largest marine mammal park in Europe.
At around 2 p.m., the friendly harbour master reminds us that we didn't reserve the space, but had simply laid down in the morning. We argue that we just want to do some shopping and fill up with water. He looks at his watch and shakes his head. In a few minutes, the boats that have made reservations will arrive with the next bridge train. We cast off without shopping and with an empty tank. But that's no problem on the marginal seas. There are 23 harbours and marinas around the chain of lakes, as well as a number of jetties where you can moor.
Modern contrasts on the Flevopolder
It is only about two to three nautical miles in a south-westerly direction from Harderwijk to Zeewolde. The town lies on the Flevopolder, so it can only be a modern town.
Zeewolde was laid out over a large area with many green spaces. There are four boat harbours connected by canals. We moor in Bonshaven, where there is electricity and water at the jetty, as well as a boat refuelling station. There are also several supermarkets close to the harbour. After bunkering, we continue towards Spakenburg. The predicted strong wind from the south-west is now sweeping across the Nuldernauw, which connects the Wolderwijd with the Eemmeer. We head against it and are almost alone on the choppy water.
Time seems to have stood still in Spakenburg
Spakenburg can be reached via a branch canal. Originally, the town was one of the most important fishing harbours on the Zuiderzee. One hundred years ago, a fleet of 180 boats was still moored here. The Scheepstimmerwerf Nieuwboer, which is still in operation today, is the oldest shipyard of its kind in the Netherlands.
We sail in to the southern end of the old harbour. With a bit of luck, we find the last free berth on the west bank of the canal and even have a pillar for electricity and water next to us. From here it is only a few steps to the museum harbour, where time seems to have stood still.
Women sell fish and cheese at market stalls. The men are working on their boats and have pulled up the brown sails to dry. Holland straight out of a picture book.
Spakenburg is certainly one of the most beautiful places on the south coast of the Randmeer. From here, smaller yachts can continue on the last leg to the nearby metropolis of Amsterdam. Between the two motorway bridges lies the small town of Huizen on the Gooimeer with its historical museum and its own sandy beach.
Sailors with a mast height of more than 12.70 metres must turn back in the Eemmeer. If the westerly wind persists, the clearance height may be reduced. But that is not a problem. There are still many beautiful places to discover on the marginal seas. And back towards the north-east, we have the fresh North Sea breeze as a shifting wind.
Maps and literature
- ANWB Water Chart 18 - IJsselmeer, Markermeer, Randmeren, Dutch, 17,99 Euro ISBN: 9789018046132 www.shop.watersportalmanak.nl
- Manfred Fenzl: The IJsselmeer, Edition Maritim, 39,90 Euro ISBN: 978-3-667-12212-4 www.delius-klasing.de
- Jan Werner: Cruising guide Holland 2 - The IJsselmeer and the northern provinces, 39.90 euros ISBN: 978-3-667-12063-2 www.delius-klasing.de
