Just one hundred years ago, the North Sea ruled the heart of the Netherlands. The Zuiderzee - the Southern Sea - was its largest bay. And the people at its mouth had to live with its whims just as much as the inhabitants of the metropolis of Amsterdam deep inside it. For it was not only the tides that brought this open flank to the North Sea, but also heavy storm surges. Despite the deceptive vastness, the water that was pushed in quickly built up over the shallow bottom, the Zuiderzee acted like a funnel. Its power caused dykes to break. Too often with disastrous consequences for all living things on land.
The Zuiderzee is to be tamed
The desire to not only tame the Zuiderzee, but also to reclaim dry land from it, was therefore realised early on. Even back then, people in the region knew all about drainage and land reclamation. But for a long time it was impossible to implement. Only the advancing industrial age made projects of this size possible with machine-driven equipment.
Finally, in 1870, an ambitious plan was developed to literally put a barrier in front of the North Sea: the Afsluitdijk. A huge protective structure, 32 kilometres long, from the tip of Noord-Holland near Den Oever across to Friesland, where the dyke met land again north of Makkum. Work finally began in 1927 and five years later, on 28 May 1932, the last gap was closed. To mark the transformation, the new inland waterway was also given a new name: IJsselmeer.
IJsselmeer and Markermeer emerge
The name refers to the largest freshwater tributary, the Geldersche IJssel. But the large-scale changes had only just begun. The newly formed lake was now systematically drained. Large areas were embanked. Finally, Flevoland was created in the south, not only the largest artificial island in the world, but also the youngest province of the Netherlands of the same name. It was founded in 1986.
By this time, the Houtribdijk had also been completed, separating the south-western part of the IJsselmeer once again and creating the Markermeer, this time named after the island of Marken. However, further plans to reclaim new land were abandoned for various reasons - not least to leave room for nature.
A unique area for boating
Nevertheless, the result is a unique area - and an exceptional sailing area. And this in a country that already has a special relationship with water sports. Modern and young elements mingle with the time-honoured, a mix that has had curious consequences in some places. We now present the harbours along the coasts of the IJsselmeer and Markermeer. If you have plenty of time, you can make short trips from town to town at a leisurely pace. There are more than enough for one trip.
Oh yes, one more tip: even though the Zee has become the sea, or rather from the sea to the lake, the heirs of the Zuiderzee have retained one of their old characteristics to this day: their golven - the waves. Due to the shallow depth, a short, steep sea up to one and a half metres high can quickly build up in strong winds. The shallower the area, the more pronounced and disruptive the effect can be, especially when approaching a harbour entrance. The North Sea is still just behind the dyke!
Over the Lorentzsluizen into the IJsselmeer
Those travelling seaward from the east via the German Bight and the West Frisian Islands to the IJsselmeer can call at the Lorentzsluizen of Kornwerderzand at the eastern end of the Afsluitdijk. To the west, the Stevinsluizen offer another possible passage. Barely two nautical miles south-west of Kornwerderzand lies Makkum, already known in the Middle Ages as Poort naar de Zuiderzee and today the gateway to the IJsselmeer. The fact that the town with its 3,500 inhabitants is one of the "eleven old towns" of Friesland is not immediately recognisable when approaching.
Tourism and the shipyard industry characterise the picture, with the wide artificial beach and the shipyards of Feadship, which build superyachts here, to starboard as you enter via the Makkumerdiep. From the large, fully equipped Makkum marina on this side, you can easily reach the beach promenade. However, if you prefer to spend the evening in the tranquil centre of the village around the market and Plein, continue to the Buitenhaven, which is run by the municipality.
A trip to old Workum
In contrast to many of the other poldered corners of the IJsselmeer, the natural coastline on the Frisian side has been largely preserved. On the way south, three of the historic Alve Fryske stêden, eleven towns that were granted town rights in the Middle Ages and formed the basis for Friesland's later economic prosperity, are now lined up here.
Workum is the place to start. A visit here is a detour into the countryside, as the town lies at the end of a one-mile-long branch canal that connects to the inland waterway network via a lock. However, the water depth in the canal is only 1.70 metres. Moorings are available in Jachthaven It Soal and in Passantenhaven right next to the lock. Workum's landmark, the massive late Gothic Gertrudiskerk, can be reached on foot in ten minutes.
To Hindeloopen, Stavoren and Lemmer
Hindeloopen and Stavoren, both of which also have large marinas, are located directly on the coast. In addition to nice cafés and restaurants, there is not too much to discover here compared to other places on the IJsselmeer, but you can always relax. Stavoren is also the starting point of the Johan Frisokanaal, a direct route to the large interconnected Frisian lakes, the Fryske Marren, as well as to Heeg and Sneek.
For larger yachts with a draught of up to 1.9 metres, the Staande Mastroute, which is crossed exclusively by movable bridges, is of course ideal for inland navigation between the IJsselmeer and the Ems. However, this route via the Prinses Margrietkanaal will not be passable again until 2026, as the bridge at Uitwellingerga is defective and cannot be opened. The entrance is at the old fishing port of Lemmer in the very south of Friesland, with a pretty town centre along the Zijlroede. Guests will find many harbours, including the fully equipped Jachthaven Friese Hoek and the Watersport Centrum Lemmer.
Nautical literature on the IJsselmeer
- Nautical literature: Cruising guide "Holland 2: The IJsselmeer and the northern provinces" by Jan Werner. Delius Klasing: 224 p., ISBN 978-3-667-12063-2, 39, 90 Euro.
- Manual "The IJsselmeer. With Noord-Holland, Randmeeren, Flevoland" by Manfred Fenzl. Edition Maritim: 224 p., ISBN 978-3-667-12212-4, 39, 90 Euro.
- Sport boat charts "NL3 NVCharts Nederland. IJsselmeer, Markermeer en Randmeren"NVCharts: Oversailer, district and detailed charts. Format: 32.4 x 44 cm, 64.99 euros.
