The weather forecast for the last day of the weekend is also bright, with light winds and no clouds, almost certainly the best day of the whole trip. But when I look through the hull window at around five o'clock, half asleep, all I see is grey. Still fogged over from sleep, I think: "Damn, it's cloudy after all." Only when the alarm clock rings later do I realise that the nearby granite wall has fooled me into thinking the sky is cloudy.
In fact, the sun is already blazing when I arrive on deck shortly after nine. A swim would be tempting, but there will certainly be an opportunity for that later. At just after ten, we finally shake our rock hook free, get the dinghy on board and untie the remaining lines. Our destination for the day is Väderöarna, just 16 nautical miles to the south.
The crossing to Väderöarna
However, we don't know what awaits us there. Once around the eastern side of Ursholmen, we head south and the next waypoint is already visible: the Ramskär lighthouse, around four nautical miles away. A harbour seal takes a closer look at us. A second head, however, turns out to be a lost fender shortly afterwards. Closer to the mainland, a large rib passes by at a speed of at least 40 knots. A flotilla of three Norwegian motor yachts is travelling in a perfect keel line on the opposite course, the direct route to the Oslo Fjord.
Even that would have been completely impossible a few days ago due to the weather. From a distance, the archipelago off the coast merges with the higher, wooded land behind it, creating the impression of a continuous cliff. We soon pass the lighthouse, whose small archipelago is populated by seagulls, cormorants and sunbathing seals.
Väderöarna - the Weather Islands - are Sweden's westernmost outpost. There is no beacon here like on Nordkoster and Ursholmen, but there is an old lookout tower on Ramnö, the smaller southern part of the double island. At the transition to the larger, northern half of Storö, the three natural harbours with all the buildings of the old pilot settlement are well protected. There are also places on the rock in the narrow Strömsund, which separates Storö from the island of Stora Hejen in the north-west - our alternative option if Östra Hamnen doesn't work out.
Holiday atmosphere: lots going on in the Bredbogen natural harbour
Because one thing quickly becomes clear as we approach from the north: We must have underestimated the popularity of Väderöarna. Two more sailing yachts are approaching the entrance with us. Boats can already be seen everywhere out here on the rocks, and a dense row of mastheads shows that Strömsund also seems to be well frequented. Sure, it's Sunday and the weather is perfect, but the scenery that awaits us as we round the last rocks and reach the harbour almost leaves us speechless.
Dozens of boats with and without masts are moored on the rocks around the Bredbogen, the central bay with its wooden pier that serves as a jetty for the excursion boats. Three of them are here right now, fast ships with a wide stern for maximum stability when crossing in heavy weather.
The water and the waterfront are full of people, swimmers and stand-up paddlers, sunbathers on the warm rocks and people seeking shade under the bright blue Pripps Blå umbrellas on the terrace in front of the "Värdshus". The children jump from the pier into the clear water to cool off, while the adults reach into the cool box. You can forget any comparison with Ursholmen, this is several sizes bigger, we hit the bull's eye.
Green traffic light: a free space in Östra Hamnen
There's just one catch: we still don't have a berth. The narrow entrance to Östra Hamnen, flanked by concrete on both sides, is reminiscent of a lock gate, as is the green traffic light to the left of it. Inside, you can already see the yachts lying in pairs, but the fairway next to them is still wide enough - especially as it is possible to manoeuvre safely in these bathtub conditions, even in confined spaces. And after all, green means green, right?
So off we go - and lo and behold, there's still a free place alongside an older cabin cruiser with a nice young couple from Norway on board, who immediately take our lines. As we learn, it's actually empty today compared to other days: "Then the packets lie across the entire width," explains Lina. This only works because everyone has to cast off together and leave the harbour at ten o'clock the next morning. Those who want to stay can enter the harbour again afterwards. Why are the Väderöarna so popular? "Because it's the most beautiful place in Sweden," she says, as if no other answer were conceivable. From what we've seen so far, she could be right ...
In any case, I don't waste any time exploring the island, which is about one and a half kilometres long - without any real paths. Väderöarna is also a nature reserve, but a small section around the harbours is excluded.
On foot over the rocks: island walk
The path first leads to Västra Hamnen, where the rocks gently slope down to the shore. The colours of the stone, the clear, deep blue water and two sailing yachts hovering motionless above their anchors create a Mediterranean scene. The only difference is that the numerous voices sound Nordic - although in the Mediterranean, of course, this also depends on the holiday destination.
The route continues a little higher up over the rocks, which are veined and patterned like on Ursholmen and painted by lichen in light green and white. Grasses and shrubs grow out of cracks and ditches, and there are even reeds in small pools. In between, dry carpets of dark red heather spread out. The path, marked with stakes, crosses a valley covered in man-high bushes, with a crossroads at its centre. The arrows on the faded signpost lead to Kompassberget, to Kyrkan and Grottan, and to the harbour - the direction I'm coming from.
My path leads out of the valley again and over rocky waves in the terrain, then I look down onto Strömsund. Over a length of around 200 metres, under the protection of the stone bar of the island of Stora Hejen, there are around two dozen cruising yachts moored individually alongside the stone and in packs of two or three on the wooden jetties. Dinghies are out and about here too, and people are swimming. What an island for boaters!
Up to the old pilot tower
If I were to walk further north, I would come to an old church, a cave and Näckhöljen, the largest lake in Väderöarna. But I still have a second place to visit: the pilot tower on Ramnö. First, I climb Kompassberget on the way there. A long time ago, former seafarers carved two compass roses into the stone at its top.
Then down into the neighbourhood, where the terrace of the café beckons with the shade of the blue parasols. Past the restaurant, which only opens at 6 p.m., and then up the steps to the Lotsutkiken, a scaffolding made of four mighty steel struts, a fully clad ladder and a tiny red-painted hut on top, surrounded by a gallery.
This is where the pilots kept a lookout in times when there was no radio. Together with the much taller lattice mast with radar and telecommunications antennas in the valley next door, the archaic tower forms an uneven and striking pair. The view from here is truly magnificent, no sail is hidden. On the way back to the boat, I notice a sign on the Värdshus: andas in ... andas ut ... njut ... - breathe in, breathe out, enjoy!
Back on board, the photo rucksack comes off and the towel is tucked under the arm. Hat and sunglasses on and off to the bathing area at the harbour! A selfie documents that this day has come to a relaxed end. The water is just like yesterday - marvellous. Having just dried off, the skipper is already waiting in the café with two Pripps Blå on the wooden table.
The highlight of our trip
There's no doubt about it, it's the highlight of the trip. And this island almost slipped through our fingers - we had actually planned to visit the islands of the Ytre Hvaler National Park on the Norwegian side of the sea border during these days. Rarely have I been happier about a spontaneous change of plans. In the evening, we treat ourselves to the "Symfonie" in the restaurant. At 360 crowns, this flavourful concert of the sea is not cheap, but excellent. And this moment under the white awning in the low light is worth it.
A day like this calls for a fitting finale: at sunset, we sit once again at the top of the pilot tower with lots of other long-distance addicts and watch the fantastic play of colours of the setting sun - with great devotion. But also with a smile on our faces.
