Kalmar remains astern, the white lettering on the harbour pier bids us farewell. Then we are already under the bridge over to Öland. Wind and waves push us right up the narrow sound from astern, past the many lighthouses. Sails can be seen on our course with a butterfly. The yachts are lurching about in the short waves.
From Kalmar to Oskarshamn
We are heading north-west, towards Oskarshamn on the mainland. This is the first leg of our summer cruise with the Cruising Club of Switzerland. We want to be in Stockholm in a fortnight - plenty of time to explore the beautiful archipelago in south-east Sweden.
Rain catches up with us, smoothing the sea and pelting the foredeck. Where there was light before, there is now grey. Svensk Sommar of a special kind. This area is called Solkysten - the sunshine coast. At least on the advertising flyer that was on display in the marina in Kalmar.
At least the sun is shining a little when we reach the approach to Oskarshamn. The first rocks, small skerries, a large bulk carrier loading timber, a multi-purpose vessel unloading components for an offshore wind farm. On the left is the empty Gotland ferry pier, on the right the Kystvakt. At the far end, jetties for pleasure craft, the harbour master waves us over: "Welcome to Oskarshamn!"
Also interesting:
- Baltic Sea: Ten favourite destinations for the sailing summer
- Natural harbours: How to moor properly at the skerry
- national parks: Sweden's desert island Gotska Sandön
Is summer already over?
Behind them in the car park, the festival from the weekend is being dismantled. Is the summer already over? Some buildings from the Wilhelminian era, perhaps former freight offices or shipping offices, plus lots of concrete from the sixties and seventies - typical Swedish.
Unfortunately already closed: the engine and boat museum with a hundred-year-old classic in front of it. The man reading a book in deep silence on board the saloon boat is probably not much younger. It's going to be a golden evening. We enjoy the last rays of the setting sun on the terrace of the Badholmen restaurant.
The weather remains modest. Windy gives us little hope for the next few days. We head for Furö, a stopover. The small island is only around five nautical miles off Oskarshamn and can be recognised as soon as we set sail, despite the gloomy weather.
On the bird island of Furö
Furö is a nature reserve and breeding ground. This is obvious and, above all, unmistakable as we approach the harbour. The screeching of seagulls echoes across the deserted concrete jetty, at the head of which we go alongside in the drizzling rain. It may well be that no one else is here. The breeding season lasts until the end of July, according to a sign on the jetty.
For this reason, the eastern half of the island is also closed, but to the west, a path leads between gnarled pine trees around the small inland lake in the centre. It is lined with reeds, with dozens and hundreds of birds sitting and circling everywhere. Hitchcock Island.
The huge Gotland ferry passes the island on its way to Oskarshamn, trailing an oily slick of exhaust fumes behind it. Its engines roar over the water. We cast off. Our destination is Västervik. Another town on the mainland, no night in the countryside. But after a day like this, we're glad to have a heated service building.
Next destination: Västervik
About 28 nautical miles lie ahead of us. Most of the route leads across open sea, with a few cardinal buoys far out serving as waypoints and the offshore skerries to the west forming a continuous dark line. Only at Stångskär do we head back towards the mainland, and finally we enter Lusärnafjärden, where Västervik is located.
We go alongside at the jetty of Slottsholmen Marina. There is nothing left to see of the castle (apart from the foundation walls, which have been built over with grandstands to serve as an event location), but we are moored directly in the shade of the glamorous hotel. It is still drizzling.
Like the smugglers...
A bascule bridge over the fjord takes us into the centre. The first row of houses at the harbour is chic, classic wooden boats on the jetty in front, a church at the back. Restaurants and bars line the harbour. In a side street, the skipper has discovered Smugglaren, a local pale ale served by an emigrant from California. Nothing draws him home anymore.
Our day ends in cosy cushions like a dream. Maybe we'll just oversleep tomorrow, miss the rain and wake up to sunshine on Wednesday. Solkysten ...
Area information: Kalmarsund
The Cruising Club of Switzerland (CCS)
On this trip we were with the Cruising Club of Switzerland (CCS) underway. With around 6,500 members, the Berne-based Zentralclub is one of the largest water sports clubs in Switzerland and is a leader in the country's recreational boating sector.
The precinct
The area travelled on this two-week cruise covers the section of the Swedish south-east coast between Kalmar and Stockholm (in this first part of the report to Hävringe near Landsort). From south to north, it touches the provinces of Kalmar, Östergötland and Södermanland.
While there are comparatively few islands in Kalmar Sound, the number of archipelagos increases towards the north. The archipelago of Östergötland includes the Sankt Anna archipelago, which lies off the eastern entrance to the Göta Canal. The direct distance between Kalmar and Hävringe is 220 kilometres or 120 nautical miles.
The navigation
The coast and archipelago are shaped by the ice age and characterised by a flat rocky landscape. Continuous fairways are marked on the nautical chart and are buoyed and lighted depending on their importance. Careful navigation is required away from these fairways, for example when steering away from bays or natural harbours. Good preparation is essential when planning your route.
Harbours and anchorages
Apart from that, the area offers a large number of guest harbours, marinas and other mooring options. As it can still get very crowded, especially in summer during the holiday season, alternatives should be prepared for overnight stays. Town harbours on the mainland generally have a comprehensive range of services with good supply options.
Literature and nautical charts
- Delius Klasing Sport Boat Chart Sets 11 "East Coast Sweden 1" (format A2, ISBN 978-3-667-13023-5, 129.90 euros) and 12 "East Coast Sweden 2" (format A2, ISBN 978-3- 667-13190-4, 139.90 euros). delius-klasing.de
- Harbour guide "Hamnguiden 7th Landsort - Skanör, Öland, Gotland, Bornholm", ISBN 978-82-7997-243-3, 75 euros. lmf.no
Also interesting:
- Baltic Sea: Ten favourite destinations for the sailing summer
- Natural harbours: How to moor properly at the skerry
- national parks: Sweden's desert island Gotska Sandön
Christian Tiedt
Editor Travel
