This is how quickly a planned investigative research trip can turn into a normal charter trip: in 2024, the national park administration of the Italian La Maddalena Park, which includes almost all of the offshore islands in the north-west tip of the island, had organised a No anchoring at night was imposed. The first crews were fined and an outcry went through the charter industry and skipper forums. So the plan was born: sail there in the high season in 2025 and see how the skippers cope with the ban in the evenings, watching the presumed chaos when they have to look for anchorages on Sardinia's coasts in droves. But base manager Andrea from Sun Charter smiles and waves us off as we arrive at his beautiful base in Marina dell'Isola for our cruise at the end of June. "The charter companies have joined forces and hired a lawyer to fight the new regulations. The authorities have suspended the checks."
Excitement in the anchor paradise
A very Italian regulation. Legal disputes are notoriously protracted here, so a few years is nothing. Strictly speaking, the ban had already been in place for ten years, but it was never implemented. The Posidonia fields should be better protected. Only experts from the authorities know why they are only destroyed by anchors at night. But never mind - let's be happy that everything is possible again.
And this is particularly good news here, because let's be clear: there is probably no better area in the western Mediterranean for crews who like anchoring. There are so many beautiful and sheltered bays on Sardinia's north-east side and Corsica's south, including offshore islands such as Maddalena, Spargi, Caprera, Razzoli and Budelli, that you hardly know where to lie down in the evening. This is my fifth trip to the area, and we could still moor in a new, unfamiliar bay every day. And it's always beautiful.
Cool off in sheltered bays
Like Cala Lunga on the west coast of Razzoli, our first anchorage. The iron goes down on a sandy spot, the swim ladder is folded up and the stern is swarming with fish. Shoals of amazingly large fish swim in front of the diving goggles and are not at all shy. As you approach, the cloud simply parts and closes behind you again. I know of no other area in the Mediterranean where you can still see so many fish. An anchoring dream. The jagged reddish rocks glow in the sun. Sardinia has been groaning for days under the first heatwave, 36 degrees, water almost 25 degrees, the Italians are openly talking about climate change. We charter sailors take it in our stride, blissfully passing the hours swimming, lazing around, cooking and drinking Sardinian beer in the cockpit.
This is thanks to strict protection: the La Maddalena Archipelago National Park is huge, fishing is strictly regulated or prohibited, areas for yachts are closed and faeces tanks are mandatory. The result speaks for itself. And this despite the fact that there really are a lot of yachts here. On the way from the charter base up to Maddalena, we had to slalom around huge mega yachts, countless charter yachts, chic owner's boats. The border cruise between Corsica and Sardinia is popular.
The Strait of Bonifacio: navigationally demanding
But even at the end of June you can still find an anchorage, sometimes even free buoys. Much better than expected. The area is not the easiest: the narrow Strait of Bonifacio between Corsica and Sardinia is a notorious wind nozzle. If the Mistral blows from the west to north-west, strong winds can quickly arise, and the same is true if the southeast is less frequent. The beautiful islands are dotted with rocks, so you have to navigate carefully. The fleet operators have a lot of damage, and the deposits in the area are correspondingly hefty. You have to keep an eye on the weather forecast. That's what we do, because from Cala Lunga we have to cross over to Bonifacio via the French Lavezzis. And the mistral is coming. In two days it will be blowing at 30 knots. The fortress town, situated high up on the cliffs, is the urban highlight of the trip. A must for two newcomers to the North German sailing area in our crew.
So the next morning we hoist the sails and set off. It's a mere twelve miles, the area is famous for its short distances. That leaves enough time for a swim stop on the already French Lavezzi Islands. With their rounded grey granite humps, they are a mixture of the Swedish archipelago and the Seychelles, only with scrubland instead of fir trees or tropical rainforest. The water shines turquoise in the sea of stones.
Deceptive island idyll
The most spectacular bay is probably Cala Lazarina on the west side of Lavezzi. However, we anchor in Cala di Grecu opposite, behind the headland. From there, it's easy to take the dinghy for a walk across the island. The heat is shimmering, the cicadas are chirping. We pass the sailors' cemetery of the French warship "Sémillante", which sank in 1855. 702 souls lost their lives when the frigate ran aground on a reef in a terrible storm. A warning to all sailors not to be fooled by the light summer winds that constantly blow across the island.
In fact, it was wise to make the journey to the bay on foot. Cala Lazarina is a dream of a bay, but it's packed. If you want a spot here, it's best to come in the morning. But the view of the rugged sea of rocks and turquoise bay is incredibly picturesque.
But we already realise while hiking: The mistral is slowly picking up. So we quickly get back on the boat and head north-west towards Bonifacio, already a cross. It gets rougher and rougher. The 15 knot wind becomes 23 knots, the swell increases, first reef. Our Dufour 385 is pounding through the sea with nasty tacking angles, our helmsman Uwe is feeling his way along the wind edge as best he can. So the coffee break turns into an unexpectedly lively afternoon of sailing.
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Precinct information:
Journey: Flights to Olbia from many German departure airports. Prices from around 350-400 euros, depending on the season. Transfer to the charter base in Marina dell'Isola approx. 30 minutes. It is best to book through the base, as taxis are sometimes difficult to get at short notice on Saturdays during the season.
Charter: We were travelling with an eight-year-old Dufour 38 from the German charter company Sun Charter. The boat was technically flawless. The fleet is a mixture of Bavarias, Sun Odysseys, Dufours and some Lagoon and Nautitech cats. A two-year-old Bavaria 37 costs 2,970 euros if booked before the turn of the year with an early booking discount of 20 per cent in June. The base in Marina dell'Isola is a beautiful facility in a quiet bay, with a café, beach, bathing area and nearby restaurants. Probably the most beautiful base in the area! Bookable via: Sun Charter, www.suncharter.deTel.: 08171/29905 or info@suncharter.de
The precinct: There are numerous shallows and rocks in the area that must be taken into account. Time and again, crews run aground, especially under autopilot or when making short runs into the next bay. Our actually booked, one-week-old Bavaria 46 had to go to the boatyard right before our start! Careful planning and chart/plotter work are therefore a must. Please note the national parks of the Maddalena Islands on the Italian side (lamaddalenapark.it) and that of the Lavezzias in French. Crews must register online for the duration of the trip and pay the national park fee before entering the Italian park. The area is strictly zoned, the map is available as a download, and anchoring and navigation bans apply in some areas. Important: In most zones, a distance of 300 metres from the shore must be maintained, it is forbidden to deploy land lines or similar, and there are also controls. Anchoring on seaweed is strictly prohibited here and on the French Lavezzis!
Wind & weather: Between Corsica and Sardinia, the Strait of Bonifacio forms a narrow channel that creates a wind nozzle in strong winds from north-west to west or east. If the mistral threatens, it blows quickly at 6 to 8 Beaufort and the sea is correspondingly rough. The route to Bonifacio is then not recommended. The French weather service has the best mistral forecasts meteofrance.com.
Harbours & anchorages: On the coast of Sardinia there are various larger marinas with good facilities and service. However, most crews stay on the islands. La Maddalena with Cala Gaveta and the floating dock Marina Cala Mangiavolpe is a good stop there. In Corsica's south, Bonifacio and Porto-Vecchio. The choice of bays is huge, you can almost always find a place. There are often buoys available for a fee and cashiers come around with the RIB.
Literature & nautical charts: Klaus-Jürgen Röhring: Corsica, Sardinia Elba, Delius Klasing, 39,90 Euro. ISBN: 978-3-667-12585-9
