Starting out in Calabria – Settling in first
The crew look a bit worn out – on the day of arrival. It’s all down to the early, cheap flights. Setting sail is out of the question. It’s too late anyway to cover the 40-odd miles to Stromboli in daylight. “Why do we need daylight?” asks the youngest and most enthusiastic crew member. In other words: don’t we want to go to Stromboli? Isn’t the volcano considered the oldest navigational mark in the world? Surely we want to see it at night! That’s certainly true. As is the fact that tomorrow is still another day – or rather, another night. Besides, we still need to stock up on provisions. And anyway: why rush? Our port of departure, Vibo Marina, has everything you need to settle in within walking distance: a bar, a restaurant, a supermarket, an ice-cream parlour, and a small beach next to the harbour. More than enough ingredients for a bit of dolce vita on day one.
Course: Aeolian Islands
Early on Sunday morning, we set sail. The sun and the sound of church bells ringing in our ears. The sea lies before us. The finest shade of azure, though unfortunately still as smooth as a sheet. Not ideal for sailing over to the Aeolian Islands. It’s only later that a sailable breeze picks up, ensuring we don’t have to start our trip with a long day under engine power. A good forty nautical miles, as I said. No problem with a large boat once the breeze really picks up: as we all know, distance is no issue. That goes for our Dufour 520 as well.
If possible, we’d like to visit all the islands in the archipelago in a week. Including Alicudi, the smallest one right at the western end. Seven days – seven islands, so to speak. It’s a bit of a challenge, but it’s doable. Above all, though, it’s one thing: weather-dependent. Anchoring is often a bit of a challenge in the Aeolian Islands. In strong winds, it can be very unpleasant. The water is often very deep right up to the shore. The few safe bays are then very busy. And marinas are generally in short supply or, as on Salina, hopelessly overpriced. So no one should be disappointed if the islands, named after the Greek god of the winds, Aeolus, don’t quite live up to their name.
The world’s oldest navigational mark
First, we need to get there. The crossing drags on – especially when you’ve had your destination in sight for hours. Around mid-afternoon, a pale, perfectly conical peak comes into view ahead of the bow. It’s just as striking by day as it is at night, when the volcano on Stromboli spews fire. And it does so with almost clockwork regularity. There’s now a ban on anchoring off the beach in the main town. That wasn’t the case on our last visit. A few bathers wave to us from the shore. Our only option is a reasonably calm spot a little further north, in the lee of the water tanker. The mooring area is packed. The number of yachts off Stromboli is considerable.
A sundowner in the shadow of the volcano
Whilst the day-trippers wait for their ferries back to the mainland, we stroll through the village. Near the church square, we stop for a sundowner. The terrace of the “Ritrovo Ingrid”, named after Ingrid Bergmann in the film “Stromboli”, is quite something: in front of and below us lies the fleet of yachts, with the volcano looming behind us. You can’t help but wonder whether the pizza here is baked with fresh lava. It would certainly make sense. Archaeological and geological studies show that Stromboli has been active almost continuously for at least 1,400 years. It reliably flares up every 15–20 minutes.
A Rendezvous with the Underworld
At 4 o’clock in the early hours the next day, the alarm goes off on board. We weigh anchor and motor on through the rest of the night. Not that we’d want the sunrise to steal the show from us. One of the highlights of this trip is bobbing about in the dark off the Sciara del Fuoco – the ‘fire slide’ in the west of the island – listening to the hissing of the underworld and watching one of the most impressive fireworks displays in the world. But be careful: it’s essential to keep your distance. As it’s impossible to get your bearings in the dark, two lit buoys help guide you to your destination. Not because the water is shallow at the foot of the volcano, but because, in the event of a major eruption, rocks could otherwise come hurtling down from above!
A Spectacular Display of Earth’s History
The history of the Earth and the formation of the universe, live in colour and 3D. Clearly – and audibly – not yet complete. It’s spectacular: first the volcano spews out its embers, then, a moment later, the rumble reaches the ship. Accompanied by the crew’s oohs and aahs. Anyone who only looks up when they hear the sound of the explosion – or perhaps reaches for their mobile – has already missed the best bit. You really do have to make the effort to stare intently into the night sky and risk a stiff neck. But don’t worry if you miss an eruption: the next one is bound to come. And, as I said, it’s been happening for centuries.
You’ll find practical tips for a successful sailing trip in this sailing paradise north of Sicily in our articles on sailing guides, nautical charts and information about the area:
Jan Jepsen
Freier Autor
