Sailing in Central Greece, Part 1. This series follows a sailing trip from the Ionian Sea through the Gulf of Corinth to the Saronic Gulf.
Gentle waves lap against the crumbling concrete quay, rocking our boat. It is a Wednesday morning in late August. The dry heat of the dawning day is already palpable. Despite it being the high season, we have a free mooring in Patras.
As in many places around the Mediterranean, rubbish accumulates between the boat and the quay wall. Twice a day, we fill a landing net with it and dispose of the rubbish in the plastic bin. Here, where the galleys of the ancient Greeks were moored as long as 2,500 years ago, it is now almost impossible to imagine the former splendour of the ancient trading metropolis.
Wooden ships and marble columns have given way to tankers and industrial charm. Nevertheless, it’s well worth a visit: the city is vibrant and, at the same time, steeped in history and culture. The Archaeological Museum is highly recommended, as are the many cafés, where it’s best to order a refreshing freddo cappuccino.
Patras – Nafpaktos | 10 sm
We set off from Patras on our sailing trip through the Gulf of Corinth. We’ve been on the road for a year and a half now with our ‘Eleanor’, a Malö 40 H built in 1982. Our journey has taken us all the way from Germany to here, and its destination remains to be seen. For the next leg of the journey, we – Lukas and Toni – won’t be alone: our friend Rosi is coming to visit from Hamburg and will be trying her hand at sailing for the first time with us.
The wind is blowing from the west – perfect conditions for setting off. But a tap in the galley that has suddenly started dripping holds us up. Two trips to the DIY store, a few expletives and pleas later, the water stays where it should – but the morning’s sailing wind has long since died down. With the wind all but dead, we finally set sail at around 5 pm. We don’t let the change of plans spoil our mood; we’re well-practised in dealing with the unexpected by now. Rosi learns how to cast off the lines and haul in the fenders, and we find out from her what music our friends back home are listening to at the moment.
The Charilaos Trikoupis Bridge looms ahead of us, marking the entrance to the Gulf of Corinth. An impressive feat of engineering. Despite the risk of earthquakes and an unstable seabed, it spans almost three kilometres. As we approach the bridge, we’re glad to have the engine’s assistance: the current is strong, and we also have to watch out for ferry traffic. After reporting in by radio, we’re given permission to pass under the bridge.
The Gulf of Corinth welcomes us with rolling hills and a sweeping horizon. In the evening light, we head towards Nafpaktos, a port city with a Venetian character, whose houses nestle against the hillside below an ancient fortress. Byzantines, Venetians and Ottomans have all played a part in its construction since ancient times. As in Patras before, it becomes clear here too just how steeped in history the region around the Gulf is. We drop anchor and jump into the water, which glitters in the light of the sunset. After a shower under the camping shower on deck, we enjoy pasta and Greek salad in the cockpit. Music drifts over from the shore, and the stars twinkle above us. The gruelling hours spent by the boat owner in the engine room or under the galley counter are long forgotten.
Nafpaktos – Trizonia | 14 sm
The next morning, an elderly English couple from the neighbouring catamaran invite us over for coffee. They live permanently on board with their two kittens. Simon picks us up in the dinghy; his wife Bev has already laid out biscuits and coffee. We’re delighted to have a chat and receive lots of sailing tips. Back on our ‘Eleanor’, we stow away everything that isn’t nailed down and set off. Weighing anchor is hard work on our boat: whilst others have a winch, Lukas pulls the 30-metre steel chain and the 16-kilogram anchor on board from the bow using only his own strength. Today, the wind is blowing at 23 knots from the east, forcing us to tack.
Tack after tack, we make our way against the wind. All the while, we keep an eye on the large tankers whose shipping lanes we’re crossing. For Rosi, these are her first sailing manoeuvres. She picks it up quickly and is soon proving to be a helpful bowman. In the late afternoon, we approach the island of Trizonia. The wind continues to die down. Before we start the engine, we treat ourselves to a swim: travelling at just under two knots, we take turns jumping into the water and letting ourselves be towed along on a swimming line. We then head for the island under engine power. Trizonia welcomes sailors with a well-sheltered bay, a marina and several anchorages. Once our anchor is firmly in place, we set up the Banana folding boat. Whilst we’re rowing ashore, a Swedish sailing yacht sails into the bay. On board is an English-French couple, also living there permanently. We arrange to meet up for a drink on shore that evening.
The island is a little idyll. Car-free Trizonia is quiet and peaceful, and the fishing harbour is lined with tavernas. Fairy lights and a street musician playing the accordion create a welcoming atmosphere. The guests sit at wooden tables right by the water’s edge. Together with our new friends, we sample the local ouzo and enjoy the balmy night.
I would insert the information box immediately after the paragraph about crossing the Charilaos Trikoupis Bridge:
Book recommendations
Cruising Guide to Greece 1 guides you through planning your sailing trip from the Ionian Sea, via the Gulf of Patras and the Gulf of Corinth, to the Saronic Gulf. The book describes harbours, marinas and anchorages in the individual sub-regions. Maps and photographs help readers to plan their stages and identify potential stops along the route. The book is therefore aimed at crews who are not simply looking for a single harbour, but are planning the entire itinerary of their Greek sailing trip. (shop.delius-klasing.de)
Port Guide: Greece 1 focuses on the individual ports. For each port, it provides a page featuring an aerial photograph, a harbour map and a description; this is supplemented by information on approach, berths and facilities. Among other areas, it covers the Ionian Sea, the Gulf of Corinth and the Saronic Gulf. Whilst the cruising guide covers the route, this volume is primarily intended as a reference when choosing the next port of call. (shop.delius-klasing.de)
Coming up: In the second part, the crew of the “Eleanor” will sail on to Galaxidi and visit the oracle at Delphi.
Antonia von Lamezan
Volontärin