If you are planning to explore Greece under sail for the first time, but don't want to venture out onto the sometimes stormy Aegean Sea just yet, there is an area right next door that leaves nothing to be desired: the Saronic Gulf. Between the Peloponnese peninsula in the west and the Cyclades in the east, the area offers everything that is important to beginners or family crews: short distances, safe harbours and anchorages, and there are exciting things to discover every time you go ashore. The regions around the Saronic Gulf are regarded as the cradle of European civilisation, with the first major buildings, large cities and prehistoric sanctuaries. It is therefore an area where Greek history is constantly sailing in the wake.
While charter sailors usually start their weekly tour of the Saronic Gulf from Athens or Poros, we start with our private boat in the very south of the area, at Porto Heli. A place that is located on the border to the Argolic Gulf and is rarely visited by charter boats. With half the wind, we rush into the approximately one-mile-long channel, at the end of which - like a turning hammer - is the large bay of Porto Heli. You won't find any ancient Greek flair here. But: with a long harbour pier, where dozens of yachts can be moored, and a promenade with a few bars, the place seems to be to the taste of the locals. They are among themselves here. Meanwhile, the crowds of tourists throng the picturesque old town streets of Poros or Ermionis, which are not far away.
Porto Heli offers Athenians refuge at the weekend
The shores of the peninsula on which Porto Heli is located are lined with expensive villas and lavish estates, some with fenced-off private beaches and security guards. An unusual picture for Greece. But Porto Heli is very popular with wealthy Athenians who like to spend their weekends here.
Where there is so much money, a modern marina is a must. It was opened a few years ago. Drinking water is even connected to the taps on the jetty - another exception in Greece. The precious water is specially transported over the mountains in large lorries and filled into the marina's storage tanks on site. However, with berth prices of around 50 euros per night for an eleven-metre boat - and even 84 euros for a catamaran of the same length - it is one of the most expensive in the region.
The wind off Porto Heli blows mostly from the west, if at all. This gives us a relaxed half-wind course out of the bay and the channel. We then steer eastwards, always close to the coast. You have to keep an eye on the cross traffic of the numerous small passenger ferries travelling across to the island of Spetses. We cross the Myrtoian Sea, as the sea area is called here, before heading for the narrow passage between the mainland and the island of Dokos. Suddenly the mild breeze picks up, first to 20, then to 25 knots. Here, the wind not only forces its way through the narrow passage, it also drops down from the surrounding mountain slopes. Time for a reef!
A small passenger ferry runs from Ermioni to the popular island of Hydra
No sooner have we completed the passage than the spook is over again. The small village of Ermioni appears ahead. There you can either moor on the south side at the quay wall, which can be uncomfortable if the wind gets up. Alternatively, you can enter a circular bay on the north side, which is open to the east. Here, yachts are allowed to moor or anchor at the Roman Catholic ferry jetty. Up to twelve boats can moor here unhindered.
Ermioni is a nice harbour village with good tavernas, a supermarket and a bakery at the harbour. The village is served by the fast ferry from Piraeus, and a small passenger ferry crosses over to the elongated island of Hydra. If you don't fancy the hustle and bustle there - the charter boats crowd together in two rows of packets one behind the other - but still don't want to miss Hydra, the ferry is a good option.
A restaurant tip is the small "Cookoida" taverna on the south side of Ermioni. Tzatziki, bread, a Greek salad and a sumptuous selection of starters - that's all you need for a successful evening. The small family restaurant knows how to make its guests happy.
The next morning, we head north past Dokos and over to Hydra. The barren mountains of the island rise some 600 metres into the sky, impossible to miss. A school of dolphins accompanies us on the way. The closer we get to Hydra, the more crowded the water becomes. The island harbour is one of the main destinations and usually also the turning point for many charter trips that set off from Athens for a week. They have to sail around 55 nautical miles to Hydra.
Poros is just around the corner - a busy island
The inhabitants of Hydra were once very wealthy and also skilled boat builders. However, the economic decline of the island began with the founding of the Greek state. This only changed again when artists such as Chagall and Picasso discovered the gem and tourism arrived in their wake. Nowadays, the narrow harbour can get crowded in the early afternoon. The associated spectacle is certainly not everyone's cup of tea.
We also leave the sails up and continue on our course towards Poros. The equally small town is literally just around the corner. It's usually busy there too, but unlike Hydra, Poros has significantly more mooring options. Poros is also well worth a visit. Even the entrance to the harbour is spectacular: the centre is located on the island of the same name, which is only separated from the mainland by a channel around 300 metres wide. While day tourists are ferried over from Galatas by water taxi every minute, a hydrofoil ferry from Piraeus also runs several times a day. Weekends are particularly busy when the local charter fleets are expecting new guests.
There are long quay walls around the town, where Roman Catholic ships moor - which is sometimes not at all easy due to the slight cross-current. If in doubt, abort the manoeuvre and make a second attempt! If it gets really busy in Poros in summer, there is a good chance of finding a free berth at the charter centre to the south during the week. A floating jetty has been installed on the north side, where you can even moor alongside if there is enough space.
The harbour master comes by twice a day to collect money and then also unlocks the electricity and water columns, which provide surprisingly good drinking water. If you run out of fuel, Poros is the right place to refuel. Every few minutes, small tankers - no bigger than a Fiat Panda - drive along the harbour promenade, which only need to be waved at if necessary. But watch out: The petrol tankers' meters are not always calibrated!
Almost forgotten: Methana
Poros is built on a rocky hill and there are countless small alleyways to explore. Steps lead up a picturesque, flower-lined path to the clock tower, which overlooks the entire island. A bench in the shade invites you to linger - and to take in the view of what lies ahead in the coming days: the Saronic Gulf ahead; the Methana peninsula can be seen in the distance.
There are more than enough places to eat on Poros. Very popular, because it is right in the centre of the action, is the "Taverna Oasis", which does a good job of pleasing the average tourist's palate. If you want better food, visit the "Apagio". Tip: the special mother's style feta cheese - a poem!
The next morning, we cast off the lines and head west, still protected by the island. We pass an old Russian shipyard, which now houses a posh beach club. Then we sail northwards. Methana is a rather unpopular destination. The town is located in the south-east of the peninsula of the same name. The former sulphur spa town had a lot to offer, especially before the Second World War, thanks to its hotels, casino, open-air cinema and theatre and, of course, its popular thermal baths. The hustle and bustle was as big as it is today on Mykonos. After the war, however, the hype was over and tourist interest waned. No wonder, the old sulphur baths had never been modernised and no new incentives had been created. From the 1990s onwards, only older people visited Methana, and most of the hotels are now closed, some of them in ruins.
Methana has everything a sailor could wish for: good restaurants that are not overcrowded. A wide promenade. Supply options. Hiking trails. If you like "shabby chic" and want to get away from the hustle and bustle of Poros, this is the place for you. Provided you can live with the constant smell of rotten eggs. In return, the town makes up for this with its many fragrant orange trees.
Ancient history is omnipresent in Aegina
Swimming stops have been few and far between so far. After the approximately seven and a half nautical mile crossing from Methana to Aegina, we dropped anchor the next morning in one of the many small bays in the south of the island. About 150 metres from a beach, we put out 35 metres of chain and let the boat swing. In June, the water is already extremely warm and crystal clear right down to the depths.
Aegina is home to 13,500 people, 8,000 of whom live in the main town in the north-west of the island. With a history dating back to 950 BC, Aegina is one of the oldest and most historic cities in Greece. It was known throughout the Mediterranean as a trading centre, not least because of the Aegina coins with a turtle depicted on them that were minted here. In 1828, Aegina was even the capital of the newly founded state of Greece for six months before this honour was ceded to Nafplio.
The harbour is busy, partly because of the ferry traffic to the surrounding islands. However, there is a long pier at the back of the harbour where guest yachts can moor stern-first. Those who prefer to remain self-sufficient will find a large, sheltered anchorage off the coast. Be careful, if you sail into the harbour from there, you have to watch out for an old wall that has been washed over by the sea and is barely recognisable - the old problem with Greece's sunken cities. The town welcomes its guests with a special charm and its long history can be seen at every turn, whether on the ancient footpaths or buildings.
Horse-drawn carriages drive up and down the promenade, waiters stand in front of the restaurants and invite you to dine, and stalls selling pistachios are set up at the side of the road. The latter have only been cultivated on Aegina since 1896, but they are said to be among the best in the world. The excavation site of the Temple of Apollo and a renowned archaeological museum are within walking distance to the north.
Temple of Asclepius and the best-preserved theatre of Greek antiquity
We want to experience a little more of the great Greek history and set course back to the mainland the next morning, passing the island of Agistri. Ahead, the mountain range of the Peloponnese grows ever higher and more impressive, and finally a harbour entrance can be seen at its foot: Epidauros.
On the map, it is usually labelled "Palea" or "Altea". However, the archaeological site of the same name with the famous Temple of Asclepius and the large theatre is located around 16 kilometres inland. The harbour town can look back on thousands of years of trading history. This is also because pilgrims and sick people used the harbour to land here and embark on the pilgrimage path to find healing. Today, you can reach the former place of worship by bus in just over half an hour for three euros. Or you can pay just under 20 euros for a taxi.
The trip is definitely worth it. The theatre of Epidauros is considered to be the best-preserved theatre of Greek antiquity. It was built around 330 BC, with a round orchestra made of marble and on a foundation of rammed earth. Even in the top row, you can hear the sound of a coin falling to the ground in the centre below.
More ruins in Epidauros
Another theatre, albeit much smaller, is located directly on the coast not far from the harbour basin. However, it must have looked a little different in ancient times. Markings on the building indicate that it must have once been located in the centre of the city. The building was apparently buried in late antiquity and forgotten over the centuries. It was only rediscovered and restored in 1970. It offers space for 800 spectators and is now once again a venue for concerts and theatre plays.
The quay wall in the old harbour of Epidauros is relatively short and only offers mooring space for a few yachts. If you don't moor up in the early afternoon in high season, you will have to spend the night at anchor - but that's not a bad thing, as the bay is spacious, well protected and offers good holding. Only the somewhat inconspicuously marked bathing area is off limits. Anchoring here at the foot of the mountains and with a view of the old theatre, as sailors did several thousand years ago, is a moving experience.
Epidauros lies in a fertile valley and is dotted with lemon and orange trees. The small centre has a sleepy feel. In a small park with old spruce and palm trees, you can sit in the shade and enjoy the evening breeze - sea view included. If you fancy something other than gyros or souvlaki, you should visit the still young restaurant "Biercode". It offers a special pizza whose dough is supposedly baked according to a 2,000-year-old recipe - an interesting flavour experience. The "To Perivoli tis Gogos" is more down-to-earth. Here you can linger in a pleasantly cool garden. It's worth walking up to the old church, which overlooks the entire bay.
There is another anchorage on the southern side of the peninsula, as well as a beautiful beach and the ruins of a Roman estate, which can be snorkelled in shallow water at a depth of around one metre. If you don't want to get into the water, you can also hire glass-bottomed kayaks on the beach and view the ancient cairns through plexiglass.
Conclusion in Vathy
With only one charter week, the crew usually has little influence on which day of the week they sail to which destination. Especially as as many destinations as possible need to be packed into the short time available. However, if you can somehow manage it, you should sail to your next destination on a Saturday: Vathy on the north-west side of the Methana peninsula. The harbour is tiny, only accommodating around ten ships. On a Saturday, there is a good chance that the town will be a little quieter, as the charter fleets have to return to Athens to change crews.
It is only a stone's throw of around nine nautical miles from Epidauros to Vathy. The picturesque, circular harbour is huddled close to a rock face. Towards the sea, a large, heaped-up stone pier defends against the waves. Behind it, you feel like you are lying in Abraham's lap. The anchor can be safely dropped on the opposite side of the harbour during the mooring manoeuvre - it is still quite close. When mooring backwards, you get the feeling that your own gangway will bring you straight to the table where you will be eating later that evening.
Of the ten houses around the harbour basin, five are tavernas. In addition to the obligatory dishes, they also offer a variety of pizzas and burgers. A small shop next to the "Café Prego" stocks the essentials: White bread, olives, red wine. After arriving in Vathy and taking a short tour, everything that needs to be done here has already been done. Then we recommend taking a seat with a cappuccino freddo in the "Skipper Bar Café" on the promenade and enjoying the scenery. By the way, after dinner, why not return to the "Skipper Bar", the cocktails are award-winning.
On the way back to the boat, the temptation is great to take another seat on one of the wobbly, wicker-covered chairs on the pier and have one last ouzo. Feet in flip-flops on the still-warm cobblestone floor, a natural cedar roof over your head. In the glass, the delicious drink that makes you forget the approaching flight home. Anyone who has ever sat in a tiny Greek harbour like Vathy knows that it doesn't get any better - and above all more typical of the country - any time soon. From Vathy, we finally sail north-westwards, heading for Corinth. There we pass through the famous canal. But that's another story.
Info and tips for cruising Greece
The precinct
The Saronic Gulf stretches from the east side of the Peloponnese all the way up to Athens. It borders the Argolic Gulf to the west and the Cyclades to the east. The area is very popular with charter and family crews because the distances are very manageable and the anchorages and moorings are safe and available. What's more, it never gets boring because almost every place has its own special highlights.
Navigation & Seamanship
The area is not very demanding. Shoals are rare, only some passages between islands and the mainland are somewhat narrower. Important approaches to harbours are buoyed, especially when ferries arrive and depart. Ferry traffic is generally brisk. In the high season, some harbours can get crowded.
Charter
The logical starting harbour for the area is Athens with its huge selection of fleets and charter bases, spread over various marinas (Alimos/Kalamaki, Piraeus, Agios Kosmas). From there it is 15 miles to the island of Aegina.
Wind & Weather
The Saronic Gulf is not as affected by the Meltemi as the neighbouring Cyclades. It is most noticeable around Aegina in summer. Further towards Poros, however, thermal southerly winds often occur. Between Hydra and Trikeri, the wind often blows in an easterly direction. Doldrums are not uncommon, even in the early and late season. Then, however, passing lows can bring strong north or south winds.
Good regional weather forecasts can be found on the website of the Greek weather service Poseidon: poseidon.hcmr.gr.
Harbours & anchorages
Mostly simple town harbours with little infrastructure. Moorings are made with bow anchors and stern lines at the pier. Mooring fees are rarely charged, and if they are, they are usually only a few euros. Electricity and water cost extra, if available at all. There are numerous anchorages in bathing bays that are also suitable for overnight stays. However, there is swell in some of them at night. Hydra, Poros and Aegina get very crowded in the high season, as crews from Athens flock to the islands.
Literature & Charts
- Harbour and bay handbook "Greek coasts" by Rod and Lucinda Heikell, 69.90 euros, Edition Maritim
- Cruising guide "Greece 1" by Gerd Radspieler, 49.90 euros
Purchase via shop.delius-klasing.de.
- Nautical charts: Greek pleasure craft charts GRPC 1 and 2, Chart G 16 or British pleasure craft charts from Imray: "Saronic and Argolic Gulf" (with detailed plans).
