The first part of the cruise report read here.
"For travelling with a keelboat, we're doing surprisingly well," says our weather and navigation expert Finn, summing up our trip through North Friesland so far. The long keel of our HR Monsun 31 has a draught of just 1.45 metres - unproblematic in most harbours and fairways and a solid foundation in the mud.
Sailing through the mudflats is easier for us Baltic Sea sailors than we thought, perhaps because we take the area seriously: We hang on to weather reports and water levels like series fans on the next cliffhanger and plan courses, tidal flat highs and ETAs as thoroughly as air traffic controllers plan their slots. In the end, this preparation gives us the serenity to really enjoy the trip.
A stone's throw to Föhr
From Sylt to Föhr seems like a stone's throw - but the safest way to get there without "optional grounding" is via the 23 nautical mile long outer route: west past Amrum, through Rütergat and on into the Dagebüller fairway. Shallow yachts are faster if they enter the northern Föhrer Ley via the Föhrer Schulter, cross a Wattenhoch, then follow Pricken and later Tonnen to the lighted entrance to Wyk marina.
Both options are similar in distance, but the ebb current can be used effectively as a turbo on the inner stretch. Beware of onshore winds: the approach can be rough; keep an eye on ferry traffic and the sometimes strong cross-tidal current. In the harbour there are about 35 guest berths on jetty 1 (water depth about 1.2-2.0 m, soft mud below). Radio: VHF 11 "Wyk Port".
Through the Wadden Sea National Park
Our course takes us through the Schleswig-Holstein Wadden Sea National Park, Germany's largest protected area and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Over 4,400 square kilometres of mudflats, tidal flats, salt marshes, a resting place for millions of migratory birds, a nursery for seals and grey seals. Sensitive area: The North Sea Navigation Ordinance sets clear rules; specially protected zones are off-limits outside the shipping lanes during the protected periods.
In the direction of Hallig Hooge, we see a dinghy cruiser taking a short cut across the mudflats. It's better to stay in the tidal flats, follow the pricks, read current edges and use the Nehrstrom. Less draught would sometimes be nice, but with planning, concentration and humility you can get through. The keelboat forces you to be prepared and provides calm in the swell and comfort on long strokes.
To Halligen: Hallig Hooge
The Halligen are one of the special features of the region. In the summer heat, they shimmer like mirages - flat hills with a house, seemingly hanging on the horizon, connected only by a causeway. Hallig Hooge welcomes us quietly: no high dykes, instead salt marshes and marshes that are flooded during storm surges. Buildings stand on mounds, a refuge for people and animals. In the evening, when the day visitors have gone, the solitude remains.
By bike or carriage via Backenswarft and Kirchwarft. Worth seeing: the Königspesel on the Hanswarft with 18th-century domestic architecture. The sailing harbour is located behind the lock (gate usually open), and at half tide there is sometimes a strong cross current. For boats with a draught of around 1.60 metres, entering the harbour is realistic from around two hours before to two hours after high tide. The dry basin behind the summer dyke offers soft mud for around 25 guests. Sanitary facilities in the Seilerhus. Harbour master: 0160/493 46 94, hsc-hooge.de.
Last stop: Heligoland
No longer mudflats, but red sandstone in the open sea - this is Germany's only offshore island, Heligoland. The Lange Anna defies the surf, seabirds frolic below. There are safe moorings, restaurants, fuel, provisions - all duty and tax free. Over the dune: brightly coloured beaches, grey seals. Helgoland is the perfect hub for North Friesland cruises: sail in and out 24/7, take your time to check the weather and tide windows.
"What will you take away from this trip to the Wadden Sea?" As we say goodbye, we all agree: the quiet moments, the expanse between the sky and the sea, the surf on the sandbanks, the call of the wading birds. And this humility before the forces of nature, us in the middle of it all. And we have learnt to read the area - an exciting book that we will never put down.
The first part of the cruise report read here.
District information North Frisia
Navigation
The sailing area is determined by wind and tides. Thorough preparation for the trip is essential to ensure that there is enough water to enter the harbour at the destination - especially if there are tidal stretches and a tidal flat has to be crossed. Usually you use the tidal current or the weaker current at capsize time; the combination of wind against current should be avoided - from about five Beaufort it is better to leave it alone. Falling dry is an enrichment of every Wadden Sea trip with a suitable boat. Always obtain up-to-date information from the harbour master and the authorities: buoys can drift away, tidal channels and sands can change their course. DGzRS emergency: VHF channel 16/DSC; near the coast from the German mobile phone network 124 124.
Wind and weather
Mild Atlantic climate: cool summers, mild winters, lots of wind. July/August average 17 °C, approx. 4.8 hours of sunshine per day. Wind from the west-north-west dominates. Warm continental air and cool North Sea bring sea fog with rapidly falling visibility. Autumn/winter: Stormy with periods of rain. DWD Sea Weather: German Bight/North Sea: dwd.de
Boat for the hunting ground
For yachts, a draught of up to around 1.30 metres is favourable; with careful trip planning, 1.50-1.70 metres is feasible. Double, lifting or swivelling keels or mudflats are suitable for dry-docking - stable footing in the mud and robust keel soles are crucial. The rudder and drive should be protected.
Shore leave
The larger islands offer a wide range of catering options. There are also cafés and good shopping facilities, and bike hire can be found directly at the harbours or in town. The infrastructure is convenient for crew changes: Sylt has a railway connection, and ferries run regularly between Wittdün, Wyk and Dagebüll (railway connection).
Literature
- Sport boat charts "NV Charts North Sea DE11 - Elbe, Hamburg to Helgoland", NV Charts
- Sport boat charts "NV Charts North Sea DE10 - North Friesland, Sylt to Helgoland & Eider", NV Charts
- "Tidal calendar 2026" for the German North Sea coasts, BSH
- Cruising guide "North Sea coast 2; Elbe to Sylt"Jan Werner, Delius Klasing Verlag, 5th, revised edition
