Denmark: From the Öresund via the Kattegat and Little Belt to the Schlei

Text: Reinhold Quast

Click here for part 1: Denmark: Via Smålandsfahrwasser and Køge Bugt to the Öresund

We sail out into the Kattegat under butterflies and soon reach Gilleleje, a real fishing harbour with good shopping facilities and restaurants at the northern tip of Zealand. Right next door, the beach stretches seemingly endlessly, and we take advantage of the 18-degree weather. Baltic Sea!

Along the north coast of Zealand

We now follow the north coast further west to Hundested at the entrance to the Isefjord. Here we spend a day in the harbour and walk along the shore in summery weather with fantastic views over the Kattegat. Our destination is the Knud Rasmussen Hus, which the famous Greenland explorer had built up here. Without him, the Arctic island would not be an autonomous part of the Danish kingdom today. The museum in the thatched house, built from "Greenland stones", provides an impressive account of his expeditions.

On the next leg to Odden, a harbour porpoise visits us at high speed. It seems to want to play, constantly cruising in front of our bow and occasionally looking up at us with interest. Shortly before the harbour entrance to Odden, however, we pick up speed: the sails have to be lowered because the harbour entrance is a bit tricky with the swell in onshore winds. We enter the harbour basin under engine power with a good stern wave.

The small island of Sejerø

Our destination for the next day is the island of Sejerø. We don't want to sail all the way around Sjællands Rev, but take the shortcut via Snekkeløb, a gap in this elongated reef of ice-age rocks with a guaranteed depth of three metres. Contrary to expectations, there is a red buoy on the starboard side, and with binoculars we also find the green one. An aft wave gently pushes us over the obstacle.

The harbour of Sejerø is well protected on the western side and offers some comfort. We make a short shore leave, take a quick dip and enjoy the almost obligatory sunset on another beautiful island.

Samsø and Stavns Fjord

After Langør on Samsø, it's a short hop. We pass Lindholm Flak and enter Stavns Fjord. This is more of a wide lagoon, the sandbanks are almost at water level and the seagulls can stand here. The light makes everything appear diffuse and unreal. Pricks and buoys are barely recognisable. We literally feel our way through this labyrinth of land and sea. Langør is an idyll in the midst of magnificent nature.

The next morning we round Samsø to the north and try to make progress under sail in light winds. Shortly before the small neighbouring island of Tunø, already our next destination, we see our first seals. Their heads emerge from the calm water like little balls and disappear just as quickly.

More islands: Tunø and Endelave

Tunø harbour is already quite full, but thanks to our narrow beam we find a place and learn that the island is a popular destination for local sailors. Many sailors come here from the mainland harbours, especially at the weekend. We take a stroll around the island, buy provisions at the small market and pick up some fresh vegetables for the pantry at a stall on the way.

The situation is similar on the island of Endelave to the south, which is only slightly larger: we arrive early, but the harbour is almost full - it's Saturday! Nevertheless, we find a nice spot for a relaxing afternoon on the west side right by the jetty.

In a calm through the Little Belt

From now on we head south towards the Little Belt. Passing Abelø, Bogense and Fredericia, after 30 nautical miles we reach the entrance to the strait, at the corner of which lies the small harbour of Strib. Choosing this place as a transit stop was a real lucky bet: the harbour is very small and offers little space for guests. From the cockpit we have a clear view of Ny Lillebæltsbro, the newer of the two bridges that cross the Belt here at its narrowest point.

Absolute calm awaits us the next morning. So we motor under the bridges and follow the meanders of the Little Belt. The current is in the opposite direction and we try to utilise the Neer current. To do this, we change sides of the fairway. It works quite well that way. The current charts in the sailing manual are helpful.

Last day in Denmark: Mommark

We enjoy this magnificent stretch of scenic cruising, even though we would much rather be travelling under sail. The sun is now shining down hot like summer and we make ourselves some shade in the cockpit. Finally, Bågø with its beautiful harbour lies in the middle of the Belt near Assens.

This island was also on the sailing plan, but as we approach it, huge cumulus clouds form. It looked like a serious thunderstorm and we briefly considered leaving for the Danish South Sea, but decided in favour of Mommark on Als. The front did indeed stay behind us, and after 43 nautical miles we reached Mommark in the evening and got the last berth in the harbour. It has charm and offers a small restaurant, a kiosk and a fine sandy beach. We spend the evening on the dunes chatting with our neighbours on the jetty.

We are back

The next morning, the last day of the trip, it rains for the first time. Overall, it is anything but cosy. However, the weather forecast predicts an improvement, so we set off early. The wind is blowing from the south-east, gusting over 20 knots. Our Biga is once again running happily upwind with reefed main and jib. The initially unpleasant wave flattens out behind Kalkgrund and we soon reach Schleimünde.

We are pushed up the Schlei under Code Zero. We receive a warm welcome in the harbour from Henningsen & Steckmest. We spend the last evening in Kappeln and recall the most beautiful and exciting moments of the past weeks. Once to Copenhagen and back, we've made it!

Click here for part 1: Denmark: Via Smålandsfahrwasser and Køge Bugt to the Öresund