Sometimes savoury, sometimes sweet - northern Brittany is a real treat, and not just in nautical terms: At the end of a long day's cruising, when things calm down in the harbour, culinary delights await ashore. Part 2/4: from Paimpol, we head inland to Lézardrieux, Pontrieux and Tréguier and then on to Port Blanc and Perros-Guirec.
From Paimpol westwards, the anchorages around the northern islands of the Bréhat are tempting in fine weather, before heading through the narrow passage south of it into the Rivière de Trieux to the village of Lézardrieux or via the neighbouring river Rivière de Tréguier to the village of the same name.
Click here for the first part of the trip report.
Inland direction Lézardrieux
The contrast could hardly be greater: from the jagged granite rocks that look boldly out of the sea, where waves break dangerously and where Atlantic water washes around the northern tip of Brittany with a current of up to six knots, the route heads upstream into the increasingly lovely, enchanting green of the inland. Suddenly, the fresh spring temperatures turn into real summer and a strong wind can be comfortably weathered inland. However, if you haven't done the maths properly, you can also experience currents of up to three knots in the river, which can make mooring in the marina at Lézardrieux challenging. It is therefore best to arrive at slack water. However, there is also a floating jetty in the centre of the river, where it is easier to moor against the current even without a land connection. It is even easier to grab one of the guest buoys north of the small town in the wide part of the river.
Upstream with the tide
Further upstream, a 17 metre high bridge blocks some people from travelling further inland. Anyone who has paid attention in theory lessons knows that you can still get through with a 22 metre high mast as long as the height of the tide is five metres lower than the Highest Astronomical Tide (HAT). Or not lower than HAT as elsewhere in the world, but lower than MHWS, which, like many things here, does not seem to be clearly defined. If you don't want to do the maths or take any risks, take the dinghy instead, pass the Château de la Roche-Jagu and enjoy a completely different face of Brittany during the six miles upstream. With the high tide upstream and the low tide downstream, the journey is almost autonomous.
When the timing is right: Pontrieux and Tréguier
The river finally meanders through the forest to the sleepy little town of Pontrieux, which, thanks to a lock, always has enough water for boats that don't run dry. The next, no less attractive river a little further west leads to Tréguier. It is definitely worth a visit here - "if you can", as the Imray guide says, because the water here flows at six knots at low tide, which can lead to a mooring manoeuvre against which the Yachtmaster exam seems ridiculous. Tip: Always moor and cast off against the current and manoeuvre in the harbour at slack water, i.e. one hour at high or low tide. If manoeuvring in the marina seems too difficult, we recommend anchoring just north of Tréguier, directly under the castle.
Pure Brittany: robust boats and sweet treats
A conspicuous number of Boréal aluminium boats are moored here. No wonder, as these seemingly indestructible boats are built here for every area of the world, from the Northwest Passage to the Antarctic. Perhaps it is no coincidence that they were inspired by the north coast of Brittany. The cute little town invites you to visit a crêperie. The thin pancakes, which are enjoyed with a cup of cider, epitomise the Breton spirit. For your main course, try a hearty galette made from buckwheat flour and filled with local delicacies, from bacon and sausage to scallops and salmon. Or with cheese and honey? There are no limits to the chef's imagination. For dessert, a sweet crêpe, flambéed or enjoyed with a scoop of ice cream and whipped cream.
With a little courage: Port Blanc and Perros-Guirec
The next bay to the west of the two long rivers is Port Blanc, whose buoy field is more sheltered than it might appear on the map. To get ashore, however, you need a dinghy that can be slipped or fall dry, as the landing site is dry. In the port of Perros-Guirec, it takes a bit of courage to sail across the 2.50 metre dry land in currents of up to three knots. Especially as the entrance to the harbour is no more than 5.80 metres wide and has a coaming of no less than 7 metres. Once you are in the harbour, however, it offers complete protection. Far away from the historic elegance of Tréguier and the sleepy fishing villages further west, it's easy to lose track of time here. But beware: the harbour is only open when the tidal coefficient is over 45, so you may have to wait for days until the tide is high enough again. The Sept-Îles, which are partially closed due to a bird sanctuary, offer beautiful anchorages in addition to five knots of current between the mainland and the seven islands. Although only a few islands can be entered, this archipelago is highly recommended in good weather.
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Leon Schulz
Freier Mitarbeiter
