If you ask Baltic skippers about sailing plans for the summer, they often mention destinations such as Copenhagen, Anholt, Sweden's archipelago, Bornholm and, of course, the Danish South Sea and Funen. However, it is rare to hear that someone explicitly wants to go to Småland. This is not because there are not enough beautiful places there. Rather, the location of the area discourages many crews from a longer stay. They usually only use it, if at all, to pass through on their way to more distant and supposedly more attractive coasts and islands. Yet the "fairway" has a lot to offer sailors.
It stretches a good 35 nautical miles from east to west and around 20 nautical miles from north to south. Framed by the large islands of Lolland, Falster and Zealand, the Småland fairway forms a clearly enclosed area, even if some smaller sounds to the east and south also belong to it.
If you get involved with the small harbours and islands, you will get to know Denmark from a completely different perspective
It can be reached from three sides: Approaching from the Great Belt around the northern tip of Langeland is easy. The water is sufficiently deep here. Most sailors who start somewhere between Flensburg and Fehmarn take this route. The distance is then just over 50 nautical miles. Coming from the south via Guldborgsund, which is around 18 nautical miles long, the journey is a little trickier. This is because it is flat and quite narrow in places. According to the chart, the target depth is 2.1 metres. However, many stones and shallows line the fairway in the sound. Some are even in the middle of the way and have to be navigated around.
Some charter companies on Fehmarn prohibit their customers who charter boats with a draught of more than 1.75 metres from passing through the Guldborg Sound for insurance reasons. This is because it is not only the shallows that need to be taken into account, but also the water level in general. This usually fluctuates around 0.6 metres in the sound. If the wind blows from the south-east or south-west, it can drop by up to 0.8 metres for longer periods. In addition, the current sets in: one to two knots in normal weather, up to four knots in stormy weather. The two bridges at Nykøbing and Guldborg, however, are no obstacle; both open on radio call or flag signal "N".
That leaves the crews that set sail from the coast of Mecklenburg-Vorpommern. They usually head for the area via Grønsund. This somewhat less complicated approach between Møn and Falster, for example, is about 40 nautical miles from Warnemünde. Only when the wind is really strong is there a decent current of three to four knots in Grønsund.
There is something to see here and there, otherwise nature is the main attraction
The five truly idyllic islands with the "ø" in their names are undoubtedly the best known in the Småland fairway: Agersø, Omø, Vejrø, Fejø and Femø. The first three, which lie in the west of the area, are more frequented, as they are also ideal as a stopover for crews travelling in the Great Belt. The last two, more easterly islands, on the other hand, are very tranquil.
Agersø, famous for its beautiful windmill right by the harbour, is a small but not too sleepy island. It has everything that makes sailors happy: a shop, a smokehouse, an ice cream parlour, a restaurant, a bathing jetty and, on top of that, free rental bikes for wonderful tours.
You can find something similar almost everywhere in the area. Everything you need is available, there is something to see here and there, but otherwise nature is the main attraction. It goes hand in hand with an inimitable tranquillity. There's no need to fear the hustle and bustle of Samsø, Anholt, Svendborg and other popular harbours during the season, where it's not uncommon for there to be a mad scramble for free places in the afternoon. You rarely experience this in the Småland fairway. Only the lively Karrebæksminde is an exception in this respect.
The flat south of the district in particular is sparsely populated. Like everywhere else, young people are moving to the larger cities. The flora and fauna benefit from this rural exodus: among other things, the shallow waters are home to large colonies of birds.
Småland clearly deserves more attention
Vejrø is unique in the area: on the private island, which the banker Kim Fournais bought years ago, the harbour has been converted into a luxury resort. This has its price. For boats up to 15 metres in length, the equivalent of 47 euros per night is payable, and 74 euros for boats longer than that. For some, a stay here is worth every crown, others shake their heads and turn away - it's a matter of taste. The same applies to the change from the smaller islands to the larger ones: Lolland, Falster, Møn and Zealand. Here you almost feel like you're on the mainland.
You should navigate carefully in the Småland fairway. In the southern part, the water depth decreases in many places and most of the islands are surrounded by sands and shallows. You should not leave the well buoyed channels here. However, some of them are even wide enough to cross. That's a good thing, because as the main axis runs in an east-west direction, the wind is bound to catch you from the front at some point. That's not a bad thing, the distances are all manageable.
In any case, Småland, which has only been called that since the late 20th century, has its charms. It definitely deserves a little more attention than just rushing through it. And even then, it's worth making a stopover or two. We have put together a dozen tips that you should always have in your luggage.
Twelve destinations in the Småland fairway
1 Omø
The perfect place to start when crews sail over from the Danish South Sea. The pleasant, modern harbour with 100 comfortable berths offers a harbour kiosk including a bread roll service, a playground with hammocks, bicycle hire and, above all, an excellent fish smokehouse. You can sit comfortably in an old shed by the water and watch the ships come in. Don't miss the fish quiche!
You can swim right next to the harbour or on the beach to the west. The island and town are best explored on one of the hire bikes. It is just under two kilometres to the island village, where there is a small shop. If you like, you can cycle on to the bright yellow beacon in the west or take a look at the pretty village church. Otherwise, Omø is pure relaxation. If the harbour is full, which happens in the high season, you can anchor on the eastern shore of the island in a westerly wind. This is also an ideal spot for a swim!
- More info: www.omoe-net.dk
2 Agersø
Even from a distance, you can see the village's neatly decorated windmill towering high above the harbour. Like the lighthouse, it serves as a landmark for sailors. Anyone arriving in the high season will be asked by the harbour master about the draught. He will then allocate a suitable box and take the lines! If all the boxes are occupied, there is usually still room for yachts along the outer pier in the parcel. You immediately feel at home in the harbour. There is a kiosk and bistro, a beautiful bathing jetty, free hire bikes, cosy barbecue areas, a fish smokehouse with the most beautiful advertising sign in Denmark and some pretty old houses.
The windmill from 1892 can be visited (Friday to Sunday from 2 to 4 pm). It even grinds on the third weekend in June, Danish Mill Day, and during the harbour festival (26-28 July). A cycle tour of the island - once all the way around is 14 kilometres - first takes you through the pretty village with its pond. Not far away is the "Agersø Kro", known for its fine cuisine. A cheaper place to eat is the "Havblik" at the harbour. Or you can stock up on fish from the smokehouse for an evening meal on board.
- More info: www.agersoe.nu
3 Vejrø
The private island lies in the centre of the Småland fairway. If you are coming from the east from Bøgestrøm into a westerly wind, you can stop here after around 30 miles. The approach is easy and the jetties and pits are generously dimensioned. Everything is included in the high mooring fee (47 euros up to 15 metres, 74 euros above), including the plentiful and probably most luxurious sanitary facilities in Denmark as well as washing machines and dryers. Firewood for campfires is available free of charge, as are bicycles. However, depending on the wind direction, the fire can give the crews on the berths in the front row a smoky feeling below deck. It is then better to move to a place further away from the shore.
The top island restaurant is open Wednesdays to Sundays, and snacks are available at the harbour kiosk. There is a small beach and other bathing spots along the island. Since this year there is also a small speed ferry to Karrebæksminde.
- More info: www.vejroe.dk
4 Kragenæs
The harbour is also known as the "Stonehenge of the Danes" because Danish artist Thomas Kadziola has been building a stone circle with a diameter of 30 metres not far from the berths for several years. It is formed by twelve granite columns up to eight metres high, the top two metres of which are carved as human heads. Nine of the impressive 30-tonne monuments have already been completed and number ten is in progress. A visit to the installation, which is accompanied by music from a Danish sound artist, is very special indeed. The hill on which the stone circle stands offers a fantastic view of the Småland fairway, with the imposing columns in the foreground. The location was not chosen at random: One of the most important trade routes of the Bronze Age ran through here, and one of Denmark's largest burial mounds is located nearby. There is no entrance fee to visit.
The harbour at Kragenæs, which is part of a campsite, is really cosy. A berth is practically always free. There is a shop with a bakery, snack bar, restaurant, ice cream parlour and bathing jetty. In strong easterly winds there is some swell in the harbour, so the best places are in the second basin to the south. The town itself is tiny and rather uninteresting, Kragenæs lives from its importance as a ferry harbour. But if you want to go to Fejø without sailing there yourself, you can take the ferry across in just a few minutes and explore the island by bike.
- More info: www.dodekalit.dk, www.marinalystcamp.dk
5 Fejø
The island, which is surrounded by flax, has two harbours; sailors usually go to Dybvig in the south. It has space for 20 to 30 yachts. If there is a lot of wind from the south, however, the harbour is a little choppy. In the tranquil village, it's worth visiting the café, which also serves hot meals.
Fejø is known as the apple island of the region. There is cider and calvados production to match the fruit growing. The latter is expensive and not quite on a par with the French original. But a visit to the salesrooms, where you can also sample the products, is still recommended. Hideaway Vingård, a winery, also offers guided tours and wine tastings (from 3 pm in July). During a cycle tour across the island (approx. 10 kilometres), the "Ny Kro" in the centre of Fejø invites you to eat.
- More info: www.fejoecider.dk
6 Bandholm
To get straight to the point: The commercial harbour with its large silo is rather uncharming. The attraction of Bandholm lies three kilometres inland. This is where the Knuthenborg Safari Park is located. It is the largest in Northern Europe. Giraffes, rhinos, elephants - there are plenty of wild animals to see here. If you don't have your own car, you can take one of the safari buses. Some areas are also freely accessible for pedestrians and cyclists. Children will also love the various full-size dinosaur replicas that are integrated into the grounds. There is also a large playground with a water slide on the site. Admission costs 30 euros for adults and 13 euros for children, but only if tickets are purchased online in advance. Otherwise it's more expensive!
Locomotive fans can travel eight kilometres from Bandholm to Maribo on the historic railway, partly with a steam locomotive. Dates and departure times are available online.
- More info: www.knuthenborg.dk, www.museumsbanen.dk
7 Femø
Our neighbours in the north are probably the biggest jazz fans in Europe. There are festivals in many places in summer, and the one on Femø is legendary. For five days (2024 from 31 July to 4 August), the island is turned upside down. Most music fans arrive in caravans or motorhomes. But even the small, recently renovated harbour is bursting at the seams. It's a good thing that there is a good anchorage directly north-west of the harbour entrance - provided the weather is calm. The rest of the year is quiet on the island, which is used for agriculture and is mainly characterised by fruit growing. There is a small, well-stocked shop at the harbour and the Insel-Kro with home-style cooking in the island village of Nørreby, just two kilometres away.
- More info: www.femoekro.dk
8 Karrebæksminde
The detour to the north side of the Småland fairway is a must. Karrebæksminde is the summer resort of the town of Næstved, which has 80,000 inhabitants and lies at the very end of the Karrebæksmindefjord. Accordingly, there is a lot going on here in summer. Fortunately, there are three harbours. The first choice is the long harbour on the starboard side of the canal, in front of the bridge. There you are right in the centre of the action.
If you prefer a quieter experience, wait for the Græshoppebroen to open every hour and go to the club harbour behind it. Be careful, there are sometimes two to four knots of cross-current in the canal! There is a lot to discover in Karrebæksminde. Not just the "Grasshopper" bridge, so named because an artist gave it a head and antennae and the green structure looks like a grasshopper. The "Eno" bakery and ice cream parlour with seating by the canal is also worth a visit. Opposite is the old fishermen's quarter with its smokehouse and restaurants. The castle island of Gavnø is home to a museum and high ropes course, and there is a mini-golf course in the village.
- More info: www.nsk.dk, www.ganvoe.dk
9 Guldborg
For crews from the Bay of Lübeck, the preferred route into the Småland fairway is via Guldborgsund. This is a partly narrow channel with a narrow fairway that is officially 2.1 metres deep and peppered with shallows. There are two stops along the sound: Falster's largest town, Nykøbing, is halfway along the route. It boasts a medieval centre, a new harbour, good infrastructure and plenty to see. However, seven miles inland plus the return journey is too much for many skippers who are already in the Småland fairway. Guldborg, on the other hand, is the quiet alternative. Here you are idyllically moored in the harbour at the west-facing foot of the bascule bridge. It opens on request via radio (channel 16) from 8 am to 8 pm. The place is rather unspectacular, there is a supermarket and the "Café Lagunen" at the harbour. It is a cosy place to sit and look out over the bridge and the green countryside. There is an anchorage to the north-west of the harbour.
- More info: www.cafelagunen.dk
10 Vordingborg
A fairway leads two miles into the very shallow bay, at the end of which the northern harbour is nicely framed by the town and lots of greenery. The channel tends to silt up, the latest reports speak of a depth of two metres. Some of the jetties are in much shallower water, only around the jetty heads can you expect water depths of up to 2.1 metres. There is a fish restaurant and shop in the harbour. In the 12th century, Vordingborg consisted of a huge castle complex with eight towers, one of the most important in Denmark at the time. Only one tower remains, but the new Danish Castle Museum provides information about the once imposing fortress. In addition to the botanical garden, which is well worth a visit, there are many shops in the city as well as the "Stars" concert hall.
11 Stubbekøbing
The small town has a marina that was only renovated a few years ago and there is always a place to moor. Crews travelling from the east from Mecklenburg-Vorpommern in particular head for the harbour. Close to the jetties, there is a typical Danish ice cream and snack bar as well as an old slipway where a wooden boat is sometimes being worked on. There is also a small yacht chandlery nearby. He also has the key to the petrol station. In Stubbekøbing, the museum ferry to the islet of Bogø departs regularly during the season; if you like, you can take the ferry across. Or visit the small, lovingly designed Danish Motorbike Museum. It exhibits classic cars from various eras. The pretty village is suffering from a decline in population, but there is still a bakery, a supermarket, two restaurants and a few shops.
- More info: www.dmcm.dk
12 Nyord
The small island is actually located in Bøgestrøm, just outside the Småland fairway. But it is worth a detour. It used to be an important pilotage point for the journey through the Sound to Copenhagen. The harbour is 2.2 metres deep. The log usually shows less, as the bottom is heavily weeded - don't get nervous! The jetty with its ageing sanitary facilities is a haven of peace. In the summer, the museum mail boat "Røret" commutes to Steege, otherwise there is a huge number of birds chirping here. In the village there is a round church, a restaurant, the great liquor shop "Noorborhandelen" and the gallery "Runas".
- More info: www.nyord.nu
Precinct information
Charter
No fleets directly in the area. The easiest way for crews to set sail is from Fehmarn, Heiligenhafen or Warnemünde, where the major charter companies such as 1st class yachts, Mola, Ecosail and others have their bases. Or start in Denmark from Kerteminde, where the Danish company Jim Søferie operates a charter base.
Navigation
The entrance to Grønsund, Bøgestrøm and parts of Guldborg Sound have pronounced shallows with a tendency to sand up and shift. You should follow the fairways there carefully. You also have to come to terms with the possible current. In the Guldborg Sound, it sets northwards in strong southerly winds and the water depth drops by up to 0.8 metres. The opposite is true when the wind blows from the north.
In Grønsund, you can expect a strong current of four to six knots in strong winds. In northerly and westerly winds it runs towards the Baltic Sea, in easterly and southerly winds in the opposite direction. Bøgestrøm has a nominal depth of two metres. As there is a lot of seaweed on the bottom, the depth sounder often shows less! A long-lasting easterly wind causes the water level to drop after a rise. Strong westerly gales initially lead to low water, but later to high water. Current current data and water levels for the area at www.dmi.dk/strom.
Harbours & anchorages
Good network of smaller municipal harbours. Price level for ten to twelve metre boats around 20 to 30 euros. Less sheltered anchorages than in the Danish South Sea, for example, often in the shallow water area downwind of the islands.
Charts & Literature
DK sports boat chart set 1, 4, 5Price: 219.90 euros. NV-Verlag set 2, 94.99 euros. Jan Werner: "Denmark 2", 39,90 Euro, Delius Klasing Verlag
Tips for going ashore
- For gourmets: Bandholm Badehotel
- For cyclists: "Fish" cycle tour from Stubbekøbing (19 km)
- For families: Visit to the medieval centre in Nykøbing
Be sure to try it!
- Eat smørrebrød for lunch. Often good and cheap offers in the restaurant!
- Guf, the strawberry-sweet icing on every ice cream!
- Award-winning: the tasty Kirsebærvin (cherry wine) and the tangy Krenkerup beer!
Events & Festivals
- 7-8 June: Stubbekøbing Music Festival
- 9 June: Gavnø Classic Car Meeting
- 9-13 July: Vordingborg Festival
- 17-21 July: Fejø Music Festival
- 31. 7-4. 8: Femø Jazz Festival
