An article by Andreas Dillmann
It was to be the ultimate cruising test with our J/22 "Jola": Denmark in winter. Sailing in the cold on a sporty keelboat without heating or any comfort - a real challenge. We already had a summer and an autumn trip in the Danish archipelago in our wake. Inspired by a YACHT report on winter sailing, we thought: "Why not?"
Of course, we didn't want it to be a hara-kiri trip. That's why we chose the relatively sheltered area south of Funen. We had already been phoning around for weeks to find out where there was electricity at the jetty - an absolute must - and showers. The result surprises us: almost all the small islands have what we need. In the larger harbours such as Marstal and Ærøskøbing, we just assume that they do.
We also clarify the crane date in advance: the harbour master in Fåborg even agrees to two weekend dates at the beginning and end of our holiday. We can therefore conveniently launch the boat there on a Saturday at the beginning of January 2023.
For the first day, we choose a short trip of seven nautical miles to Lyø. Firstly, because we don't set off until the early afternoon. Secondly, it's good to get into the groove first. Lyø is an instant hit: harbour master Ken puts the amount of the harbour fee in our hands ("Pay what you think"), and his wife brings fresh bread rolls to the boat in the morning. Being the first crew of the season to sign the harbour book is really cool!
Finding a berth is easy, as it was during the whole trip. We can moor comfortably in two boxes alongside the jetty. Electricity, showers and a common room are exclusively available to us.
Safety comes first
The next stage leads from Lyø to Skarø. Grey clouds only clear during the course of the day and offer a spectacular winter sky in the evening. On the way, we practise man-overboard manoeuvres with a fender - useful and entertaining! We pay particular attention to safety on this winter adventure, where a fall into the water can have fatal consequences. Stretching ropes lead from the bow to the stern on both sides so that you can go to the foredeck with a fender. When sailing, we are almost always hooked in anyway.
It is also important to note that the sailing days are short. It starts to get dark as early as 4 pm. We therefore plan to sail a maximum of 20 miles per day and expect an average speed of five knots. Every morning we also test the spark during a radio check with Lyngby Radio - a great ritual! "This is 'Jola', 'Jola', 'Jola'. Do you read me?", we announce. The guys in the control centre have probably already rolled their eyes.
We continue to Skarø for a wonderful hike. In the north, the island has a wide headland that can be walked on. You are almost standing at its end next to the fairway buoy. Above the water, the sun and clouds once again offer a magnificent evening spectacle, topped only by wraps with turkey in salsa sauce from the galley.
Hot soup is an excellent doping agent when you're out and about. We pour it into thermo mugs in the morning and devour it at lunchtime. In the evening, we cook on board. The two-ring hob, which we prefer to a gas cooker, has proved its worth. On most of the islands, you can also buy groceries in winter, but cafés and restaurants are closed. As a precaution, we had stocked up for the whole week in advance - it wouldn't have been necessary.
From Skarø to Rudkøbing
A downwind cross marks the start of the 17 nautical miles from Skarø to Rudkøbing. In marvellous sailing weather with blue skies, "Jola" sails under spinnaker into Svendborg Sound. Unforgettable! Then the shock: we almost miss a shallow of 0.8 metres. Fortunately, Julia recognises the danger just in time and turns back into the deep water.
But the sailing fun doesn't last. The wind dies down as the day draws to a close. So Posis and Jockel come on. This is the only time we have to motor. So far, the outboard has remained packed away for the whole season. Normally we do all our harbour manoeuvres under sail; it's easy to do even when there's a lot of wind. We don't have a reef, but we haven't missed it so far. If it gets really nasty, the mainsail just comes down. Our touring main with mast slides is very comfortable. If the sheet needs to be recovered, it takes less than two seconds.
The wind comes back, engine off! Under sail, we enter the fairway of Rudkøbing, where we make a cross turn in front of the pylons of the Langeland Bridge to be on the safe side. We glide happily into the harbour. But too soon: there is no electricity or showers here in the north harbour. Fortunately, we reach the harbour master, who directs us to the south harbour, where both are available. That means re-parking in the dark. Julia stands on the foredeck with the torch, I steer with the unloved outboard motor at the stern. After a brief discussion about whether we are really heading for the right entrance, everything goes smoothly. To round off this exciting day, the maître de cuisine serves up turkey in tarragon cream sauce with spaetzle. Pretty good!
Plans can change
Sailing plans, that's the way it is, sometimes have to be changed. This is also the case on the next leg to Marstal. On the way, we want to stop for a hot soup on the islet of Strynø for refreshment and to warm up. With plenty of wind, Julia crosses perfectly out of the Rudkøbing fairway. I take over the cross into Strynø harbour. The wind picks up even more there, and a few phone calls to the people in charge on Ærø reveal that both Marstal and Ærøskøbing are completely closed. We therefore decide to weather the predicted stormy night on Strynø. A very good decision!
Ah, Strynø - probably the highlight of the week! Even the welcome from the super nice harbour master Lasse breaks the ice. He greets us in perfect German and makes us feel very welcome on the island. He quickly gets on the phone to islander Lone and organises an evening sauna event for us. We just have to organise the firewood ourselves.
Lasse also gives us a tip for a walk around the island, where we get to see the best sightseeing spots. The tour takes us from the centre of the island to the historic mill in the west and from there in an arc along the sea back to the harbour. Beautiful! Only the search for firewood turns out to be more complicated than expected. We are already collecting dead branches when we make another attempt at the last house we pass. Bull's eye! Karl and his wife provide ideal firewood. They have been married for 62 years. Looking out of their beautiful house onto the Baltic Sea, they tell us: "If we see a sail at this time of year, we know there are Germans out there!" However, apart from ferries, we don't see any other ships underway the whole time, let alone one under sail.
Winter cruise in the Danish South Sea with friendly encounters
The helpfulness and friendliness with which we are welcomed on this cruise is incredible and gives us an insight into the wintry Danish island world. In the evening, Lone not only fires up her harbour sauna, but also uses a WhatsApp group to drum up the villagers for a sauna session, which is strictly gender-specific. The nightly dip in the four-degree Baltic Sea afterwards belongs on every bucket list. Simply crazy!
As the evening progresses, the weather becomes increasingly nasty. Strong winds, drizzle and uncomfortable temperatures remind us that we are sailing well before the start of the season. A hearty solyanka after the sauna fits well into the programme. The night is also fierce. The breeze freshens up to 9 Beaufort and causes heavy swell in the harbour, which pulls on "Jola's" cleats. To be on the safe side, we lay a lead line from the mast to the jetty. Although the rocking is cosy, it also makes for a restless night's sleep.
In a fit of heroism, Julia sets off the next morning to get bread rolls. Respect. Then it's time for a cultural highlight: Strynø is home to Denmark's only Smakke dinghy museum. Unfortunately, the doors are closed for the season.
Working through your wish list with the sailing boat
So we get on board and continue our journey. We have set Drejø as our destination for the day and want to make a stopover at Birkholm on the way. The island has been on our wish list for years. As we approach it, however, I become hesitant. The approach leads through an unconcreted, dredged channel that has to be navigated with the help of a fairway buoy and a compass heading. Julia is tough enough: "I'll drive us in there," she assures me - and she does.
Birkholm is hyggelig (Danish for cosy), but totally deserted. So I carry on. It's my turn at the exit and I take the narrow cross in my hand. The last stretch to Drejø doesn't take long.
Unfortunately, or rather thankfully, when we check the weather in the evening, we realise that the window for a safe journey home will close very soon. We only have the next morning to get back to Fåborg - after that, storms are on the cards. Do we really want to shorten our journey by three days? If we don't want to run the risk of leaving "Jola" on an island and travelling home by ferry: yes.
Under sail safely to Fåborg
Showers de luxe on Drejø and a goat's cheese risotto can only marginally lift the mood. But unfortunately you have to expect storms on a winter cruise. So the last 15 nautical miles are on the agenda for the following day. The night was beastly, and the morning hardly looks any better. We have to get up early to make the most of the sailable morning. We feel a bit queasy as we cast off, the wind is still blowing. But under the cover of Drejø and Avernakø, we sail safely to Fåborg and finally a final cross under the crane.
Shortly afterwards, "Jola" is back on land. She passed the endurance test with flying colours and showed us: Winter sailing is the perfect way to extend the sailing season.
Equipment for the cruise in the Danish South Sea
- Dry suits
- Fleece undershirt
- Waterproof winter gloves
- Tarpaulin fan heater
- Electric cooker Small kettle
- iPad as a plotter
- Weather app
- Handheld radio
- Lifelines
- Position lights
- Headlamp
- Music box
The crew
Julia Harder, 35, and Andreas Dillmann, 57, are a sailing team and share an enthusiasm for regatta sailing on Dillmann's J/22 "Jola". They compete in Wednesday regattas as well as world championships and most recently took third place at the Dutch Open 2023. They also go on trailer trips, for example to the archipelago in eastern Sweden. The home territory of the team leader and the doctor from Hamburg is the Alster, their club is the Hamburg Sailing Club.
