The plane lands at Amílcar Cabral Airport on Sal, the north-eastern island of Cape Verde, well after midnight. The taxi drivers are trying to get passengers to the holiday resort of Santa Maria to the south. Nobody wants to know my hotel in Espargos, a few kilometres from the airport. I feel a little lost. It's been many months since I started organising charter trips for various tour operators. During this time, I have got to know different areas in the Mediterranean and the Caribbean. Cape Verde is a new challenge for me, as I have never sailed here before.
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The crew is also a new challenge every time. They gradually arrive around midday. The charter yacht is moored at a mooring buoy in Palmeira harbour. This makes shuttling back and forth a little tedious. But the pier is reserved for the local fishermen. After provisioning, there is time to find out more about each crew member. Their sailing skills could hardly be more different. From a couple taking their first trip to a sea dog with many miles in the wake, everything is represented on this trip.
After the introductions, we start planning the route. We are not completely free, as two fellow sailors will only be staying on board for six days. They leave us in São Vincente, 120 nautical miles away. In return, a new crew member will come on board there.
Achieving compromises with a colourful crew
So this trip will be different to a cruise in the Mediterranean, for example. After all, short legs with swimming stops often predominate there. And if a family is on board instead of a colourful crew, the focus is often on entertaining and amusing the kids. Making miles is not the order of the day in such cases.
On the upcoming journey through the Cape Verde archipelago, this will sometimes be different. Some of the islands are far apart. And there are not as many sheltered bathing bays within striking distance as in the Adriatic or around Mallorca. Nevertheless, not everyone has travelled here with the same expectations. And so it is the skipper's job to ensure that we grow together as a crew despite our different ideas.
"Whether berth charterers find each other on a cruise depends on both themselves and the skipper."
This is not always easy and sometimes requires tact and sensitivity. Above all, however, all cards must be laid out on the table at the beginning. Otherwise disappointments are inevitable.
A couple of fellow sailors once put it in a nutshell after a berth charter cruise around Sardinia: "When we first met the others in our crew, my wife and I thought, oh dear, this could be something! At mid-30s, we were not only the youngest, but also the only couple among all the women over 50 travelling alone on board. When it came to deciding how the cruise should go, one of the first comments was to go shopping in the harbours. But we wanted to sail as much as possible and anchor in remote bays." At the end of the trip, the two were nevertheless satisfied. The trick was to find compromises that everyone could agree on.
Talk openly about processes
In Palmeira, meanwhile, the takeover of the yacht is completed. The following day, we set course for Sal Rei on the island of Boa Vista. The trade winds blowing steadily from the north-east give us a pleasantly rough course - perfect for the crew to get used to. Once in the harbour, we moor the ship to a mooring buoy. Then comes the bureaucratic part. Each of the Cape Verdean islands requires clearing in and out.
So we start by looking for the Policia Maritim and find what we are looking for after a tour of the city. However, the officers on duty don't know what to do with us, so they end up sending us away. That's fine by us, as it means we can ring in the evening earlier and enjoy a cosy end to the day in one of the restaurants.
I've experienced it quite differently. A lot of waiting time due to tedious administrative procedures can depress the mood on board enormously. Especially if your fellow sailors aren't prepared for it. I once made this mistake on a trip to the Windward Islands in the Caribbean. On St Lucia, the customs formalities took so long that the crew's holiday mood turned more and more into annoyance. I couldn't blame them, nobody had told them that this could happen when they booked the cruise. And I hadn't discussed the annoying and sometimes time-consuming clearance procedures on the islands in advance either. When the crew were still not allowed ashore hours later, the mood reached its lowest point. All I could do was try to calm them down. And we are soon to experience our clarification waterloo on the Cape Verde Islands too.
Keeping an eye on the crew's needs
But first the mooring line of the buoy falls back into the depths just in time for sunrise. We set the main and genoa. The upcoming crossing to São Nicolau will be a long day of sailing with a distance of over 80 nautical miles. At first, everything looks like a pleasant half-wind course and the trade wind blowing at 20 knots promises rapid progress. However, the current takes us even further than calculated. We have to keep ahead more, i.e. higher into the wind. The relaxed journey suddenly turns into quite sporty sailing. Fortunately, the crew doesn't mind.
After a perfect day of sailing, São Nicolau finally comes into sight. After a few hours, the trolling lines of the anchors also brought us a bonito before nightfall. We abandon the idea of anchoring off the harbour wall of Preguiça, as the anchorage is said to be challenging and the wind direction is not ideal. We move a little further north and drop the anchor there.
Two more days to Mindelo. We have already completed the longest leg of the journey, so we decide to sail round São Nicolau in a slightly exuberant mood. This means sailing a few nautical miles back eastwards, then continuing on the cross in a northerly direction before we can finally drop back to a half-wind course. No sooner said than done. However, the wind dies on the way and we need considerably longer than calculated.
Sporty or even long daily stages are not everyone's cup of tea. Especially when other plans have been made, but then the weather conditions change. Such unscheduled changes can also cause silent or even loud displeasure among fellow sailors. The magic word is therefore once again: communication. As a skipper, you should not make promises, but rather point out imponderables at an early stage.
Joint efforts often create unifying elements
It is already dawn when we pass the village of Ribeira Prata. The wind, which had deserted us during the day, now returns all the stronger. Behind the small, uninhabited Ilhéu Branco, we expect to find an anchorage with wind cover, as the island rises well over 300 metres out of the water. On the way there, we have to master a passage in which the water depth rises from 2,000 metres to 50 metres with a stern wind. The waves that suddenly pile up behind us require concentrated steering. I briefly point the torch aft, but quickly switch it off again to prevent the crew from becoming agitated. To make matters worse, the anchorage turns out to be far less sheltered than we had hoped. We don't get much sleep that night.
Ultimately, it can even be such stressful experiences in the course of a cruise that allow a crew to grow together. Ideally, they alternate with enjoyable experiences.
"It's not wind and weather or great destinations that are decisive for the success of a trip. It's the atmosphere on board that counts."
Exhausted, we set off on the last leg to Mindelo the following day. When we reach the harbour and have moored the ship, we register in accordance with the rules. So far, so good. But it's the weekend. Clearing out is supposedly not possible until Monday. My T-shirt with the print of a sailing regatta, which I wear with pride, obviously appeals to the officer. But I don't give in and in the end I keep my shirt and he keeps the boat papers.
The next day, we still want to make a detour to a neighbouring island. We spend a wonderful night there at a remote anchorage, but the trip is to have its revenge. Back in Mindelo, we are told in no uncertain terms that they had realised that we had left São Vincente for a day and a half. I brace myself for trouble. Fortunately, after half an hour of anxious waiting, the problems are resolved thanks to my rueful looks. With the boat papers back on board, we can soon all laugh about the incident. Not least because I had pointed out the risk to the crew before the unauthorised excursion.
Not all expectations can always be met
Experiences like this or others, such as surviving a stormy passage together, are basically worth their weight in gold for the togetherness on board. Ideally, this can go so far that real friendships develop. At the end of a previous trip, a fellow sailor told me: "I didn't feel like you were a host at all, but part of our crew." As a skipper, you can't get a better compliment than that.
And it is always impossible to fulfil all expectations. On the aforementioned Caribbean cruise, for example, some sailors had hoped to anchor every day in front of white, palm-fringed, deserted islands. The holiday had been sold to them in one way or another. However, anyone who knows the Caribbean islands knows that such scenery does not exist everywhere. Starting from Martinique, it is a good 100 nautical miles to the first white Caribbean beaches. In between are rocky volcanic islands. If you don't point this out right at the start, you shouldn't be surprised if some of the crew mutiny later on.
We are also at a crossroads on our Cape Verde cruise. Some of the people really want to visit the southern islands. The others don't think the long distance is feasible and even want to leave the boat if necessary. In the end, we come to a consensus: the stages back to the starting harbour will be sporty enough. In between, however, there is enough time to visit a few beautiful destinations at our leisure.
In the end, different people with different ideas about the trip came together perfectly. We had an interesting trip together - and also had some adventurous experiences.
Cruise and crew typology
Family cruise
In the family, the hierarchy is predetermined: here the parents, there the children. On board, the skipper is the third authority. He has the say when it comes to sailing and steering the boat. This must be made clear to everyone, even a father or mother who may be dominant in everyday life. Apart from that, it is a great pleasure to get children and young people interested in sailing. This is best achieved by involving them in the processes on board and giving them responsibility. Be it during harbour manoeuvres - "You're responsible for the mooring ring!" -, during sailing manoeuvres - "You operate the sheet!" - or during navigation - "You keep an eye on our course on the plotter!" As a rule, such tasks are carried out with great seriousness.
Individual cruise
Also known as a berth charter cruise. The crew members do not know each other. The group formation process is usually harmonious. However, if different interests clash, moderation is required on the part of the skipper. This also means reaching compromises if there is a major discrepancy between the wishes of individual crew members. Some would rather sail, others can't get enough of swimming and snorkelling. Some would like to cook on board, others would like to visit restaurants in the evening. At the end of the trip, everyone should feel that they have got their money's worth.
Yacht with skipper
In this case, the crew usually know each other. They are simply not in a position to carry out the trip themselves without help from the skipper. Alternatively, you may want to consciously hand over responsibility for steering the boat during your holiday. In both cases, it is up to the skipper to integrate himself into the group. Sometimes, however, he also has to resolve conflicts. People on board who are strangers to each other, such as those on a classic individual cruise, are generally more reserved and lenient with each other. On the other hand, people who have known each other for a long time are quicker to express their opinions. The skipper then needs to intervene carefully and quickly to prevent a disagreement from escalating.
Training cruises
Whether it's a transatlantic, heavy weather or training cruise, the common goal usually unites every crew. Nevertheless, the skipper has a lot to do on such trips, as managing the ship is much more demanding than on a relaxed holiday trip. There is often no end to the day for him. On the contrary - it is not uncommon for them to discuss their experiences at length until late in the evening. The skipper's advice is often called upon. This is understandable, but sometimes very exhausting. It is important to find a balance between private life and work, especially on trips that last longer than a few days. Incidentally, fellow sailors usually fully understand this.
Group dynamics and conflict avoidance
Communication
Talk, talk, talk! And preferably before the start of the trip, but at the latest when you first get to know each other on board. The expectations for the cruise should then be harmonised. This is the only way to avoid disappointment later on. This also includes admitting inexperience or lack of knowledge as a skipper. "Your experienced skipper knows the best restaurants and the most beautiful anchor bays" is often stated in the cruise descriptions. Sometimes, however, the skipper, like the crew, is travelling in an area for the first time. In such cases, it is all the more important to play with open cards. And to formulate things skilfully. Instead of: "Sorry, I don't know my way around here either", it's better to say: "I'm also new to the area, but I've been thoroughly informed by colleagues and am looking forward to exploring the top spots with you."
Understanding of roles
In many cases, there are spokespeople who openly express their needs and wishes, but who also have a decisive influence on the mood within the group. If two or more people fulfil this role, small groups can form whose ideas need to be harmonised with the entire crew. However, more reserved people should also be shown attention and the same appreciation.
Hierarchy
The hierarchy is not only flattening in companies, self-determination is also taking on a greater role in the private sphere. A friendly atmosphere on board contributes significantly to a good mood and satisfaction. The fact that the ultimate responsibility lies with the skipper can also be communicated in a socially acceptable manner and is particularly accepted if the skipper's charisma and knowledge justify this authority. Clear instructions and statements are always helpful, whether with regard to cruise planning or during a manoeuvre.
Background knowledge
If you study organisational psychology and systems theory, you quickly come across different approaches, some of which appear contradictory. A degree in social psychology is not a prerequisite for a skipper. However, basic knowledge helps to create consensus even in difficult situations and to make a trip a great experience for all participants despite possible adversities.
The author Marco Sasse
Marco Sasse from Teltow has been sailing for 20 years. He started working as a skipper for charter cruise operators a good three years ago. In doing so, he meets a wide variety of people. Reconciling their expectations is often trickier for a skipper than managing the ship itself. More information: www.segelfreu.de
