In this article:
The season is drawing to a close; the dark days – and with them, winter storage – are upon us. Anyone who has been sailing their boat for a long time will tend to take a more relaxed approach to the work involved. However, if the owner is less experienced or has not owned the boat for very long, a few questions are bound to arise on the day it is lifted out of the water: Is it better to winter the engine in the water or on land? When should I change the oil? Should I polish the boat straight away in the autumn or in the spring? And what was the correct order of the winterisation tasks again?
For this reason, we have listed the most essential tasks for you, starting with an oil change and ending with applying antifouling paint in the spring. When winterising, in addition to the annual maintenance and servicing tasks, the main priority is to protect the boat from the effects of winter. On the one hand, this means protection from rain and snow – for example, by storing it in a shed or covering it with a tarpaulin – and, on the other hand, protection from the cold, frost and humidity.
However, putting the yacht ashore for the winter is not strictly necessary, but rather a German phenomenon. Most fibreglass boats are perfectly suitable for overwintering, even in ice, as our neighbours in the Netherlands demonstrate. There, thousands of yachts remain in their natural element every year. However, the waters must be calm, and precautions must be taken.
End-of-season work
Work at the start of the season
Worry-free winter storage
There is no doubt, however, that the owner sleeps more soundly when the yacht is jacked up and preserved in a dry hangar whilst winter storms rage outside. However, to ensure that an important detail of the winterisation process – which may have been overlooked – does not only occur to him when it is too late – perhaps whilst he is under the Christmas tree – it is helpful to draw up a plan in advance, listing all the relevant points. Our diagram above can serve as a guide for this. Individual points will need to be handled differently depending on the vessel.
To keep track of the tasks and costs, a diagram should also be drawn up showing the work required during the winter. It makes sense to number the steps in logical order – so that, for example, you don’t realise after oiling the teak that a few joints should have been repaired first.
Some tasks should be carried out straight away in the autumn. For example, a engine check, so that the replacement of engine mounts or similar tasks can be added straight away to the to-do list. Other, smaller jobs are better suited to the spring, such as servicing winches or replacing sacrificial anodes.
Preparing the machine for winter
In most cases, preparing the machine for winter storage begins with an oil change. To do this, the engine should be warmed up – as warm oil is less viscous than cold oil and is therefore easier to drain. When preparing the machine for winter storage, a distinction must be made between dual-circuit cooling and the old-fashioned single-circuit cooling system.
Whilst with a dual-circuit cooling system it is usually sufficient to drain the water supply and check the antifreeze in the expansion tank, topping it up if necessary, with a single-circuit cooling system the entire cooling circuit must be flushed with antifreeze. This can be done either by feeding antifreeze into the system via the seawater filter until it emerges from the exhaust and is collected – or by using a homemade cooling circuit. In this method, the antifreeze is drawn from a canister via the cooling water intake and channelled back into the canister via the exhaust cooling system at the other end. Please note: the exhaust will then no longer be cooled – the engine should not be left running for too long.
When preparing a single-circuit-cooled engine for winter storage, it is also important to bring the engine up to operating temperature first: only then will the thermostat open, allowing antifreeze to be drawn into the entire cooling circuit during the intake stroke.
Polishing – Now or later?
If the yacht is stored in a hangar over the winter, it should be polished in the autumn in preparation for the following season – a task that many owners only get round to in the spring, shortly before launching. “But by then the boats are covered in dust again, and polishing causes micro-scratches in the gelcoat,” says Sven Jürgensen of Maincare, an expert in yacht care. “In autumn, on the other hand, straight after the hull has been thoroughly washed, the conditions are ideal.” Furthermore, the temperature is usually still pleasant at that time and the air is less humid. This is because in spring, night-time frost regularly cools the boats down, whilst the sun shining on the hangar roofs during the day causes condensation. “The long wait doesn’t damage the polish,” Jürgensen continues, “only salt and sunlight do that. Inside the hangar, the boat is protected from them.”
However, if the boat is stored outdoors over the winter, it may actually be a good idea to wait until spring before polishing it. This is because if the tarpaulin has left scuff marks on the hull, these can be removed during this process. “In any case, the boat should be thoroughly cleaned and degreased once more before polishing,” says Jürgensen. “And you should ensure that the air contains little moisture, otherwise conventional polishes won’t stand a chance.” The specialist workshop is better equipped for this and has twelve different types of sanding and high-gloss polishes available for all weather conditions. Good lighting is also an advantage. “In the spring, you see a lot of poorly polished boats coming out of the hangars because the owners could barely make out the gelcoat surface in the dim hangar lighting.”
Mould-free through the winter
Before the boat is moved into the hall or covered with a tarpaulin, it should be largely cleared out. Naturally, all hazardous substances must be removed from on board, in particular the gas cylinder, the distress flares and the spare petrol canister. In addition to supplies from the previous season, however, all textiles should also be removed from on board as a matter of principle, as they often absorb moisture from the air, leading to the formation of mould. Particular attention must be paid to ensuring good ventilation. If the yacht’s walls are lined with carpets, it is advisable to install additional dehumidifiers. Forced ventilation of the cabin should also be ensured by leaving hatches slightly open to prevent the build-up of moisture.
Anyone wishing to cover their boat in the hall with a dust-proof tarpaulin should opt for a cotton one rather than a plastic one, as it allows for much better air circulation. When storing a boat in an open-air storage area, it is important to protect it from the weather whilst ensuring it is well ventilated. This requires effective openings at the front and rear of the tarpaulin. This allows air to circulate constantly underneath, thereby preventing condensation.
A wise decision or, unfortunately, a miscalculation?
If you want to protect your boat from the elements with a tarpaulin, you must ensure it is the right size and securely tensioned so that it can withstand winter storms. If you simply throw the tarpaulin over the boat without giving it a second thought, it won’t last long. Above all, you must avoid sharp edges and areas prone to chafing.
Tips and tricks for preparing your car for winter
We do it time and time again – but is it the right thing to do??
Instead of using specialised antifreeze, why not run a bottle of cheap schnapps through the water pump?
This method is safe and effective. Cheers!
Can you overwinter in the water with plastic sea valves?
The manufacturers Marelon and Trudesign have been on the market for more than 30 years. Their products can indeed be regarded as winter-proof.
Should you simply book the cheapest winter storage (floor space)?
Winter storage providers often try to lure new customers with low prices per square metre. However, the real costs are often hidden in the service charges. Alternatively, the operator may prohibit owners from carrying out work themselves, leaving them reliant on the operator’s services.
Does the ship really have to be completely cleared out?
Items that cannot go mouldy or get damp can stay on board. It doesn’t matter whether fenders are stored in a damp garage or in a damp boat. Rule of thumb: paper and textiles must be taken off.
Is it a good idea to leave the boat connected to the shore power whilst you’re away, as this will ensure the battery is always fully charged?
Although many sailors do indeed manage it this way, it is better to fully charge the batteries once in the autumn and then disconnect them from the mains. After all, an unattended electrical connection is always a hazard.
Does the ship need a tarpaulin when it’s in the hangar?
Even under a permanent roof, it can’t do any harm to cover the yacht with a flame-retardant dust cover. After all, a great deal of dust naturally accumulates on it over the winter.
Does the engine also need to be winterised if the boat remains in the water?
It’s best to make sure it’s always ready to go, in case there are any problems during the winter. A small electric antifreeze monitor in the engine compartment helps to prevent damage.
Should sacrificial anodes be replaced every year?
As long as they are still in good condition, there is no need to replace them. It is enough to sand down the surface with sandpaper.